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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
My 02 F-550 has 310k on it. I have put a lot of money into the engine (repairs). Everything is stock on engine. I did add a 4" MBRP turbo back exhaust and AirRaid intake. I had an Edge programmer that took a crap. I pulled it out, so back to stock.

My question is... what should I do to it to keep it in top shape? I saw a post about the Boots, they are stock and filthy. I also saw a post on upgrading the turbo wheel. Are there other things that need or should be done?

I am try to stay on the inexpensive side but want to do it right.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I would do several small projects one at a time. Rebuild your fuel bowl and lines changing all the O-rings and Parker seals. Reseal your HPOP and replace the lines (maybe with the CNC fabrications kit). Rebuild your turbo with a new wheel if your old one is damaged - get it balanced. Replace all the boots with dieselsite's impermeable boots. Change all your hoses and belt. For the big finale, new injectors if yours are showing signs of age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Injectors have been replaced. Belts and hoses have been done. Pressure relief valve on fuel housing, fuel pump, pick up screens have been done. HPOP was re-oringed about 100k ago (it was leaking).

Turbo is in good shape. Was going to put in a Banks impeller or a Garrett.
 

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You're almost done. I'd still put a turbo rebuild kit in.
 

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I have an 02 F250 with right at 200K on the clock. Thus far I have replace my up pipes with bellowed International pipes, all orings in the engine valley , and fuel line seals also. I harpooned the tank, and replaced the fuel pickup foot since mine was disintegrated. My injector cups have been replaced. Dog house orings also. All CAC line boots, brakes and front hubs, injector seals, glow plugs,cps, icp, glow plug relay also.

If you harpoon your tank, you will likely want to replace your fuel tank vent hoses also.

I am going to replace my oil cooler orings, water pump and low pressure oil pump once it begins to warm up, provided I dont have any problems before then. Probably gonna do turbo and tranny at some point also.

Good Luck
 

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I was where ur at now about 3yrs ago. I did a turbo rebuild, dorman bellowed up pipes that I wrapped with heat wrap, manual wastegate, new boots,WW2 and the CCV mod. Truck really liked these upgrades and they were not that expensive. I now have the reg. return and wish I would have done it sooner. First thing I would do before anything is drop the tank and replace the tube filters and screen pickup if it hasn't been done!! All mods will be useless without fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I saw a few YouTube videos from powerstrokehelp.com. Has anyone dealt with him? Or done his performance mods as shown on his videos?
 

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When you replace the boots on a 2001 7.3L, are there 4 or 6?

On DieselSite i see the kit for 4 (PN: DSEBK) but the other kits that talk about the "valley boots" are all for older models.
 

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When you replace the boots on a 2001 7.3L, are there 4 or 6?

On DieselSite i see the kit for 4 (PN: DSEBK) but the other kits that talk about the "valley boots" are all for older models.
There are a total of 6 boots, one on each end of the tubes routed to the intercooler in front of the radiator, and two below the turbo spider between it and the intake plenums on the block. The earlier (early 99) models are smaller in diameter than the later (99.5 & up) models.

For a 99.5 & up 7.3L, these http://www.dieselsite.com/19995-200373ldieselsiteenginebootkitafter12198.aspx are the 4 that connect to the turbo spider, and these http://www.dieselsite.com/1999-200373ldieselsiteintercoolerbootkit.aspx are the two at the intercooler.
 

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Injectors have been replaced. Belts and hoses have been done. Pressure relief valve on fuel housing, fuel pump, pick up screens have been done. HPOP was re-oringed about 100k ago (it was leaking).

Turbo is in good shape. Was going to put in a Banks impeller or a Garrett.
As RT said, i would jump in to the turbo now. My recommendation would be 360* trust bearing rebuilt kit, compressor wheel of your choice (choose a good one like RR, WW2, BD...), and up pipe with the heat wrap.

you can also add a ts chip or hydra with custom tune. Any gauge yet?
 

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I'm in the same boat. First thing for me is R&R the turbo. I have a leaky pedestal. My impeller wheel looks like it's been grinding small pebbles.
 

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I saw a few YouTube videos from powerstrokehelp.com. Has anyone dealt with him? Or done his performance mods as shown on his videos?
Yes, I've seen the videos. I'm just going to say stick with the maintenance and mods recommended by the highly intelligent mechanics on this forum and you can't go wrong. For example, you should NEVER install a new turbo compressor wheel with an air wrench. It can cause hairline fracture in the billet aluminum. Banjo bolts won't give you double the fuel flow either, but the good news is you can ask someone on here if they are worth it! A RiffRaff Frx,or regulated return, will correct air trapped in the end of the heads instead of forcing it through the injectors. Banks stuff is good but double priced, and like 3 or 4 previous posts have mentioned, the DieselSite WW2 is awesome! I know you said in tank filters were done, but I would search "Hutch mod" if you haven't already replaced the factory fuel supply line between the tank and fuel pump. IMO that mod is still the single best bang for the buck on the 7.3! Honestly, the best advice from Bill on the videos was informing people to test and replace the cap on the degas bottle every so often so that the cooling system stays pressurized.
 

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I'm with RT.
Look at thread by Maryland diesel Nick," Barder's 360, XDP billet wheel, Applied performance actuator". Look at thread,"Arundel Diesel balances it up right".
Wheels; I like the BD same as XDP according to XDP. It will get you into the safe mid 20s in boost. You can go higher with others like RR but not keen on that and they are noisy.

Hey you might want to pull the power steering pump and bracket. Buy new feed and return metal line assembly, scuff with sandpaper or Scotchbrite pad, clean with solvent, paint, let dry, install. You want to replace the blue and grey flex line assembly it attaches to on pump.

Do, do the oil cooler orings. Remove bolts that connect to front cover first so there is no hang weight on it. This is after removing the oil filter.
Do this repair while steering pump and bracket are removed during line replacement to have better access.

Do replace all power steering hoses.
 

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I'm with RT.
Look at thread by Maryland diesel Nick," Barder's 360, XDP billet wheel, Applied performance actuator". Look at thread,"Arundel Diesel balances it up right".
Wheels; I like the BD same as XDP according to XDP. It will get you into the safe mid 20s in boost. You can go higher with others like RR but not keen on that and they are noisy.

Hey you might want to pull the power steering pump and bracket. Buy new feed and return metal line assembly, scuff with sandpaper or Scotchbrite pad, clean with solvent, paint, let dry, install. You want to replace the blue and grey flex line assembly the feed and return line assembly on engine that attaches to it.

Do, do the oil cooler orings. Remove bolts that connect to front cover first so there is no hang weight on it. This is after removing the oil filter.
Do this repair while steering pump and bracket are removed during line replacement to have better access.

Do replace all power steering hoses.
 

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We have two Fords with the 7.3 and I used Archoil on both of them and was very pleased with the results; one was running rough, so we changed the oil and added 16oz of the Archoil it was a very noticeable difference in the engine so we did the other truck as well.
 
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