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Discussion Starter #1
1999 F-350 7.3L POWERSTROKE, VIN CODE F

THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN SITTING UP FOR 3 YEARS AFTER FATHER DIED, TRYING TO GET GOING, REPLACED ALTERNATOR, BOUGHT NEW BATTERIES, REPLACED VALVE COVER GASKETS AND GLOW PLUGS, CHANGED OIL, NEW FUEL FILTER. GETTING THE FOLLOWING CODES:
P1537 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL STUCK OPEN (BANK 1)
P1273, P1275, P1277 - CYLINDER # 3,5,7 HIGH TO LOW SIDE OPEN (LAST DIGIT OF EACH CODE IS CYLINDER #)

IT ACTS LIKE THE PROBLEM IS THE ICP BUT INSIDE OF THE ICP IS DRY WITH NO TRACE OF OIL LEAKAGE, WAS SUGGESTED TO ME THAT IT NEEDS A FUEL LIFT PUMP BUT THAT JUST DOESN'T MAKE SENSE TO ME ( I COULD BE WRONG AND I AM OKAY WITH THAT. ) I CANNOT AFFORD TO SHOOT PARTS AT IT AND HOPE IT'S RIGHT. DAD TOLD ME THAT THE ALTERNATOR WAS BAD BEFORE HE DIED AND THE BATTERIES AND OTHER THINGS I DID WERE MORE MAINTENANCE AND ESPECIALLY NEEDED AFTER HAVING IT SIT UP FOR SO LONG.

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
 

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when you did valve cover gaskets how did the underneath wire harnesses looked going to injectors and glowplugs?
 

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What kwcat said. You have issues with wiring to injectors 3, 5, & 7. You'll need to fix that side. Possibly the harness connector isn't fully seated on the VC gasket on the inside. That's a common issue, especially if the harnesses are original (they become brittle over time and the latch quits working).
The P1537 code is not a 7.3L code so you should be able to ignore that.
Since you apparently have a scan tool, if it can display active parameters, set it up to monitor ICP, IPR duty cycle, Injector Pulse Width, Battery voltage, and Engine RPM.
ICP needs to be at least 500 psi cranking
IPR duty cycle should be ~14% key on engine off
Injector pulse width - 1-6 milliSec when cranking
Battery voltage - 8 V min when cranking
Engine RPM - minimum 100 RPM

Post back what you find out.

A somewhat common issue is an overheating IPR coil that opens when it gets hot. You should check the resistance across it when it dies.

P.S. Please don't SHOUT. ;)

Welcome to TheDieselStop :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
when you did valve cover gaskets how did the underneath wire harnesses looked going to injectors and glowplugs?
Those looked good, which is why I didn't change those out even though the valve cover gaskets I purchased came with new harnesses. I knew I should have done it then, but was a bit intimidated with those. I will have to go back in there and change them out.

Thank you so much.
 

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Not a problem, rule of thumb if you are doing the valve cover gaskets also do the under valve cover harnesses also saves you trouble needing going back in there especially since truck had been sitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What kwcat said. You have issues with wiring to injectors 3, 5, & 7. You'll need to fix that side. Possibly the harness connector isn't fully seated on the VC gasket on the inside. That's a common issue, especially if the harnesses are original (they become brittle over time and the latch quits working).
The P1537 code is not a 7.3L code so you should be able to ignore that.
Since you apparently have a scan tool, if it can display active parameters, set it up to monitor ICP, IPR duty cycle, Injector Pulse Width, Battery voltage, and Engine RPM.
ICP needs to be at least 500 psi cranking
IPR duty cycle should be ~14% key on engine off
Injector pulse width - 1-6 milliSec when cranking
Battery voltage - 8 V min when cranking
Engine RPM - minimum 100 RPM

Post back what you find out.

A somewhat common issue is an overheating IPR coil that opens when it gets hot. You should check the resistance across it when it dies.

P.S. Please don't SHOUT. ;)

Welcome to TheDieselStop :)
Thank you for responding and for the heads up on the shouting, this is the first forum site I have used and will have to learn the etiquette.

As I said in my reply to kwcat, those harnesses looked fine, which is why I chose to leave them alone instead of replacing them with the new ones that came with the valve cover gaskets. I suppose this is a fine lesson in taking the easy (lazy) route. I will be changing those out, but will have to wait and do that Monday. I can go ahead and run the tests you suggested in the morning and post those results.

I did not mention this is my original post because it simply didn't occur to me that it might be relevant, but, I can start the engine and let it idle, it will idle for 2 hours without stalling, but when I try to drive it, as I said, I better not plan to go far because anything over 5-6 miles is pure luck.

Thank you for the warm welcome
 

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Sounds like the under valve cover harnesses are loose under load of driving they vibrate and the engine is shutting off.
 

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I would not worry about checking IPR just yet if you had truck idle for 2 hours with no issues definitely check the wiring to VC gasket and the underneath harnesses.
 

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IT ACTS LIKE THE PROBLEM IS THE ICP BUT INSIDE OF THE ICP IS DRY WITH NO TRACE OF OIL LEAKAGE, WAS SUGGESTED TO ME THAT IT NEEDS A FUEL LIFT PUMP BUT THAT JUST DOESN'T MAKE SENSE TO ME ( I COULD BE WRONG AND I AM OKAY WITH THAT. ) I CANNOT AFFORD TO SHOOT PARTS AT IT AND HOPE IT'S RIGHT. DAD TOLD ME THAT THE ALTERNATOR WAS BAD BEFORE HE DIED AND THE BATTERIES AND OTHER THINGS I DID WERE MORE MAINTENANCE AND ESPECIALLY NEEDED AFTER HAVING IT SIT UP FOR SO LONG.

Does the engine start okay and run smooth when you begin driving? If so you might want to temporarily stop fussing over the injector electrical codes and take a look at fuel pressure. If the engine is misfiring and running rough from the start then go ahead with your electrical diagnosis and repair. The reason I say this is the title of your post : LOSS OF POWER/STALL AFTER APPROX 5 MILES, SIT FOR 20-30 MINUTES, WILL GO ANOTHER FEW MILES. This complaint screams of fuel starvation but not a bad fuel pump but rather fuel restriction before the fuel pump. In the fuel tank pick up is a fuel recirculation valve that contains two screen filters that clog with debris and cause a fuel restriction that will result in the symptom you describe. This is a known pattern failure. As the truck is driven under load the fuel pump cannot provide adequate fuel flow and as a result the pressure drops, the engine loses power and acceleration, may begin to knock, run rough and then stall. If immediately cranked the engine does not start or sputters then wait 10-15 minutes and retry. If the engine starts and seems normal and the condition is repeatable this fuel restriction is highly suspect.

If this is the case, I HIGHLY recommend having a fuel pressure test performed. To be done properly, a gauge is to be installed to one of the cylinder heads and the vehicle MUST BE DRIVEN to obtain a proper reading. If the pressure drops below 30 PSI you have a problem. If the clogged screen condition is present you will see fuel pressure continue to drop toward 0 PSI until the engine stalls. Fuel pressure testing will require the proper fittings/adapters and a gauge. If you do not have what is needed or know someone who can do this for you, I suggest going ahead and drop the tank or lift the bed off and remove the fuel pickup and sending unit assembly to inspect the tank for rust and other debris. The screens can be accessed from inside the plastic casing by CAREFULLY disassembling it. Inspect and clean as needed. I also recommend getting a new pick up screen for the bottom of the unit.

Here is a link to an image of the screens:

As for your electrical codes the replies you already received are pointing you in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Does the engine start okay and run smooth when you begin driving? If so you might want to temporarily stop fussing over the injector electrical codes and take a look at fuel pressure. If the engine is misfiring and running rough from the start then go ahead with your electrical diagnosis and repair. The reason I say this is the title of your post : LOSS OF POWER/STALL AFTER APPROX 5 MILES, SIT FOR 20-30 MINUTES, WILL GO ANOTHER FEW MILES. This complaint screams of fuel starvation but not a bad fuel pump but rather fuel restriction before the fuel pump. In the fuel tank pick up is a fuel recirculation valve that contains two screen filters that clog with debris and cause a fuel restriction that will result in the symptom you describe. This is a known pattern failure. As the truck is driven under load the fuel pump cannot provide adequate fuel flow and as a result the pressure drops, the engine loses power and acceleration, may begin to knock, run rough and then stall. If immediately cranked the engine does not start or sputters then wait 10-15 minutes and retry. If the engine starts and seems normal and the condition is repeatable this fuel restriction is highly suspect.

If this is the case, I HIGHLY recommend having a fuel pressure test performed. To be done properly, a gauge is to be installed to one of the cylinder heads and the vehicle MUST BE DRIVEN to obtain a proper reading. If the pressure drops below 30 PSI you have a problem. If the clogged screen condition is present you will see fuel pressure continue to drop toward 0 PSI until the engine stalls. Fuel pressure testing will require the proper fittings/adapters and a gauge. If you do not have what is needed or know someone who can do this for you, I suggest going ahead and drop the tank or lift the bed off and remove the fuel pickup and sending unit assembly to inspect the tank for rust and other debris. The screens can be accessed from inside the plastic casing by CAREFULLY disassembling it. Inspect and clean as needed. I also recommend getting a new pick up screen for the bottom of the unit.

Here is a link to an image of the screens:

As for your electrical codes the replies you already received are pointing you in the right direction.

Yes, I believe you nailed it! When the truck is first cranked, it will run very smoothly and does great. But when you are driving, it will do exactly as you said, and it is repeatable. I found some fuel tank pickup screens on ebay, shipped in from China, but none locally, can those be removed and cleaned?
 

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I was going to say fuel issues after you said it would idle forever without problems.
Like ford_doctor said, fuel pressure should be checked.
Before you go to the trouble of dropping the tank to replace the screens (you can probably clean them and be OK), rig up an alternate fuel source, such as a jug of diesel in the bed with a hose to the fuel pump inlet. If your fuel pressure checks out OK, and it runs well from the alternate source, then go ahead and clean the tank screens. When you do that, you might want to go ahead and replace the mixing chamber with the In-tank Mod and use an in-line filter instead of the in-tank screens. Depends on how much you want to do on it. The In-tank Mod Kit is available Here or you can build up your own.
 

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Why replace a flawed design, get rid of the screens altogether or you'll be dropping the tank again..https://www.guzzle7pt3.com/hutch.php
 

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UPDATE - I would like to tell you all that I appreciate all of your input more than words can describe, I replaced the two long screen filters and the round pick-up screen thing as well (mine was broken off and just laying down inside my fuel tank) those two long screen filters were FULL of crap! I got it all back together and took it for a test drive and didn't want to take a chance that it would just take longer to mess up, so I actually went about 40 miles driving around the area and it ran like a dream!

This could not have happened without your help, at least not without wasting a whole lot of money on it that I don't have to waste. In case you ever doubt it, please know that getting this truck running now was vital to me and your knowledge that you shared with me for free enabled my family to keep it's livelihood because things were getting pretty dire around our house, but thanks to your help, we will make it just fine.
 

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Good Job!
Thanks for letting us know what the issue was. (y)
 

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Sorry I didn’t see your posts before now. It would have been a good Idea to reach in and feel the bottom of the tank for rust. It’s hard to see past the pick up box. Doing the Hutch mod and installing a pre pump filter is the way to go. Yardbrew
 

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Plastic tank.
DENNY
 
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