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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 7.3 F-250. Will driving the other day up a incline the truck just started loosing power and eventually shutdown. The truck has plenty of fuel, the oil, oil filter and fuel filter was just changed 2 months ago. I replaced the fuel pump because I had a spare. It sounds a lot stronger than the old fuel pump did. Still no start. I replaced the cam senior still no start. I've also replaced the IPR and still no start. Does anyone have any ideas of what it could be to stop me from have a bunch of good old parts sitting on a shelf. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a 2001 7.3 F-250. Will driving the other day up a incline the truck just started loosing power and eventually shutdown. The truck has plenty of fuel, the oil, oil filter and fuel filter was just changed 2 months ago. I replaced the fuel pump because I had a spare. It sounds a lot stronger than the old fuel pump did. Still no start. I replaced the cam senior still no start. I've also replaced the IPR and still no start. Does anyone have any ideas of what it could be to stop me from have a bunch of good old parts sitting on a shelf. Thanks in advance.

Remove the fuel filter and check to see if you have fuel in the bowl. If not, then possibly the pickup in the fuel tank dropped off. Also remove the outlet of the fuel pump, turn the ignition on and see if you have a good flow of fuel (if any) .
 

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First, check the dipstick. If the oil level is too low, there won't be enough oil to run the injectors.

If that checks out OK, get hold of a scan tool that will display engine parameters. AutoEnginuity or ForScan are two examples. Auto Parts store generic scan tools won't work.
Set it up to display ICP, IPR duty cycle, Battery Voltage, Engine RPM, and injector pulse width, then crank the engine, observing or recording those parameters.
Requirements for starting are
ICP - 500 psi minimum
IPR - Less than 35% (higher indicates a problem with HP oil)
Battery Voltage - 9V min while cranking (lower and the electronics get wonky)
Engine RPM - 100 min
Injector Pulse width - 1-6 mSec

Post back what you find out.

[on edit] George's suggestion is good also, however you can check fuel delivery by opening the drain valve on the filter within 20 sec after turning the key on. You should get a healthy stream out of the drain tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Remove the fuel filter and check to see if you have fuel in the bowl. If not, then possibly the pickup in the fuel tank dropped off. Also remove the outlet of the fuel pump, turn the ignition on and see if you have a good flow of fuel (if any) .
The bowl is full. I took the filter out the first day hoping to see an empty bowl, unfortunately that wasn't the case.
I'm seeing a lot of post about the O-rings leaking around the injectors causing lose of pressure. I had the hpop replaced about 10 years ago or at least that's what the mechanic said he had to replace along with the loop!!!
 

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How about the oil level?
 

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First, check the dipstick. If the oil level is too low, there won't be enough oil to run the injectors.

If that checks out OK, get hold of a scan tool that will display engine parameters. AutoEnginuity or ForScan are two examples. Auto Parts store generic scan tools won't work.
Set it up to display ICP, IPR duty cycle, Battery Voltage, Engine RPM, and injector pulse width, then crank the engine, observing or recording those parameters.
Requirements for starting are
ICP - 500 psi minimum
IPR - Less than 35% (higher indicates a problem with HP oil)
Battery Voltage - 9V min while cranking (lower and the electronics get wonky)
Engine RPM - 100 min
Injector Pulse width - 1-6 mSec

Post back what you find out.

[on edit] George's suggestion is good also, however you can check fuel delivery by opening the drain valve on the filter within 20 sec after turning the key on. You should get a healthy stream out of the drain tube.

Check the oil level as KLHANSEN suggested. Nothing will start unless the requirements for starting are satisfied.
 
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