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Discussion Starter #1
My F550 has exactly 60K miles on it and for the most part, it ran without troubles all that time (3 years). I never go past 5K miles with my synthetic oil and I am pretty diligent in checking oil and coolant levels regularly.

So, it happened that when I got back from on my last trip (about 200 miles) I noticed that it had a hard time going over Teton Pass (pretty steep - sustained 10% grades). It was in regen, but even while regening, it never struggled that hard. Fuel mileage seemed a bit lower than normal, but not other issues. The coolant temperature stayed normal and I did not notice any smoke of any kind and the exhaust pipes look normal.

This morning after the engine had an overnight cool-down I checked under the hood and to my surprise found that the coolant was about 4 inches below normal fill. Getting worried, I checked the oil and re-checked it probably 5 times using the short-stick method. The oil level was over the meter (even with short-stick)! I have never seen this kind of rise in oil level. Hence, I put an oil pan under and drained maybe 2 or so quarts of it. Horrified, I noticed the "splashing" (never seen that before when draining oil) and when I looked closer in the pan, I noticed that there was water in the oil! Most likely a good portion of it came out as it might have been sitting on the bottom of the oil pan.

I drove it carefully to the shop and they are looking at it as of this writing. However, my question: How can coolant enter the engine and get into the oil?
Is it possible that coolant is able to leak into the engine from the water pump?

Any help/suggestions are much appreciated!
Thanks!
 

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Cavitation in the front cover behind the water pump?
 

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head gaskets is my first thought. EGR coolers would be my second guess.

Repairs should be covered.
 

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Have you tested your coolant nitrite levels at 20k and 40k miles and added VC-8 coolant additive if needed as specified in the owners manual?


Take a look at the video link "6.0L & 6.4L Diesel Coolant Health Video on PTS" section about halfway down this page:

http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/advisory/HotsheetMayJune2010/MayJun2010Hotsheet.html

It shows the coolant nitrite testing and the normal 60k flushing with VC-9 as well as covering the extensive flushing process to clean a contaminated cooling system.
 

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Keep us posted on what happened.
 

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I've had this problem three times on two diffeent motors. I'm on my 3rd motor! What has happened each time is coolant cavatates in the water pump cavity and melts the aluminum. What happens next is coolant goes right into the oil, but the oil does not change different color even when so much water is added it pours out the dipstick! What you need to do is make the dealer give you in writing that you have no main/rod bearing damage now or will have damage down the road. Coolant eats bearings!
 

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I've had this problem three times on two diffeent motors. I'm on my 3rd motor! What has happened each time is coolant cavatates in the water pump cavity and melts the aluminum. What happens next is coolant goes right into the oil, but the oil does not change different color even when so much water is added it pours out the dipstick! What you need to do is make the dealer give you in writing that you have no main/rod bearing damage now or will have damage down the road. Coolant eats bearings!
3rd motor? Wow, can't believe you still own the truck. I would have bailed after the first motor replacement.
 

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I wonder what happened....to OP'r
My tech replaced my pump but not the cover and it held until now. I'm looseing coolant somewhere very slightly so I'm thinking it's a pin hole and I worry now the service manager will give me crap. He told me the other day after telling him I'm loosing coolant again that they fixed that problem and ignored me. I'm going on a long trip next week so if the coolant gets down alot I'll be in their face. Right now I'm not positive. I don't do a lot of driveing in between work trips. Also I'll do a Blackstone anaylisis when I get back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update!

Well, so far I don't have my truck back yet, but the reason for that has nothing to do with the reason for me bringing it to the shop. Here's the story:

The tech looked at it (and I trust this fellow - he has seen a number of these engines and is very good and honest). He could not find anything wrong. He did an oil change and checked the oil, did pressure tests etc.. nothing. So I asked him to level both oil and coolant perfectly and then I'd take it for a little trip watching it carefully. That was the plan. Then, the engine, after running for about 30 seconds stopped and would no longer start. This happened right in the repair stall to the mechanic that did the oil change. They found a blown fuse (used to power some critical engine electronics). Put a new fuse in - to promptly blow again. Then, after some game of elimination, they found that a circuit that powers a couple of items in the high-pressure fuel pump housing has a short.
Overall, this is not such a big deal, mostly because the tech has done 3 of these exact repairs before, but he never did it without taking the cab off!!! Realize, that my truck does not allow the cab to be taken off without some really major issues. Well, he did take off the turbos to get at the HP fuel pump system, took off the cover etc - and yes, the harness has a small rub spot that caused the short. Now, Ford has that part back-ordered (due to yet another change to it) with availability out to September (this was ordered nearly 3 weeks ago and Ford only notified the dealer about 1 week ago about the additional delay). Now, the dealer found a part in Las Vegas that came in today. All parts are here, but the reverse (re-install all of this without cab-off) will take many hours of labor (sigh!). With any luck, I'll have it by Monday evening.
To add insult to injury, the garage (here in Jackson) has a fantastic service department, has had a Ford dealership for many years with very capable, skilled Ford mechanics, but has lost their Ford dealership about 4 months ago due to the business changing hands (new owner) and the old owner apparently having pissed off Ford! So, of course, this is a procedure that without cab-off takes on the order of 20-30 labor hours. The part is only about 60 bucks. So I am looking at a 2-3K repair with most likely no help from Ford (even though it is clearly warranty).

The standard procedure with Ford is to tow the vehicle to the nearest Ford dealership. According to Ford, it is in Afton, WY (about 80 miles south from here). I went there... Guess what: They mostly deal with and repair 4-wheelers from Honda, dirt bikes and lawn mowers. They do have one new truck for sale and about 4 used cars. I looked at their shop and they don't even have a door large enough to let the ER through let alone having a mechanic with the necessary expertise to do the job.

So needless to say, I am going to have a serious word with Ford about all this. The ER is an 18,000lb vehicle worth a quarter of a million. Not something I'd want to be towed through 80 miles of mountain roads (for no good reason) and "repaired" by the shop I just described above only to satisfy some Ford paper-pusher rules.

I would appreciate very much if there is anyone reading that has something better than an 800 number to call or better yet knows someone to contact to resolve this warranty issue.

Thanks a lot in advance!
 

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I would sent them an e-mail rather than a call. You can detail it much better. Early on there was a TSB about the wiring harness from the job 1 2008's. So it looks like it got you too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I agree about email - problem is: to whom do I send it to?
 

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I love this thread!

some time ago Ford told me and my buddy to go jump in a lake, your oil cant have coolant in it and your oil analysis means nothing.

reading this thread sure helps and I will be looking for more info soon.

Javier
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK. I sent off a detailed message to Ford using that website. I'll let you know how this evolves.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Another update

I got the truck back yesterday after being in the shop for 3 weeks due to unavailability of parts.

The problem with the shorted harness inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump housing has been fixed and the engine runs fine - $2000 later (cab-on procedure is very time consuming).

I worked with Ford regarding this repair and I do have a case# and have been asked to submit the bill to Ford via authorized dealer for warranty processing. That's the good news. Although this may take 2 - 3 months (according to Ford) to process, there is a chance I get some of that money back.

However, the original reason for me bringing the truck to the shop still prevails. I had the coolant level topped off to exact fill line (cold), oil change done and filled to the correct level as well. So, I started at a known base. I drove it from the Garage to my home (about 18 miles). The truck got to normal operating temperatures. This morning (engine cold and not started), I checked the coolant level. It was about 2 inches below the fill line. I checked the oil level and found it to be slightly higher. So I put a clean, semi-transparent plastic bucket under the oil pan and drained about 1 quart.
No surprise - most of it showed up during the initial drain. Not emulsified!! clearly visible "pockets" of properly colored anti-freeze fluid.

First, the engine idles perfectly (even firing) and runs fine (power etc) - that should indicate to me that it is probably not a head gasket or sleeve cavitation. The fact that it is NOT emulsified (or emulsifying) it seems to me that the fluid is entering the oil directly into the oil pan, then "falling" to the bottom of the pan since it is heavier than the oil. After standing for a while, it is completely contained at the bottom draining out first when removing the plug.

Question: how could it enter directly into the oil pan? Aside from cavitation on the back of the water pump, could it be a drive-shaft seal?

Oh well, I have an appointment at a qualified Ford dealer in Rexburg, ID on Monday. I am just worried driving there (it's approximately 100 miles). The oil had been changed and I just drained out a bunch of the coolant. Hopefully the leak is small enough not to cause serious problems on my way there. In fact I don't really know how long this had been going on and how much the leaking amounts are increasing - and under what circumstances it leaks.

From my observations over the last 3 weeks sitting in the garage and never started, there had been a noticeable, but only a very small amount of leakage (maybe less than an inch). So it seems that when the engine is running (or at least while it is hot) the amount of leakage increases.
 

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sounds to me like cavitation. If it were head gaskets I think there would be other symtoms. They will have to pressurize the system to try to find it.
 
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