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Discussion Starter #21
No smoke/vapor etc.. out from the exhaust. In fact, the truck was standing on my driveway for the last 3 days and lost 1 quart of coolant -> all at the bottom of the oil pan. I drained it waiting for the stream of fluid to turn from coolant color to black. Then I checked the oil level and it is back to normal.

I'll do one more quick drain tomorrow morning just before driving it to the garage. Hopefully the lubrication will hold up for the trip. It looks like the leak is starting to get worse.
 

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Oh this is good, :lol: like a a good ole :ford: soap opra playing out...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well, I made it OK to the Ford place with only about a quart of coolant "disappearing". The Engine ran great - no overheating, no vapors or black smoke. The diesel tech at the dealer listened to my observations and took a quick look, then went to order the parts - his immediate reaction: Front plate cavitation!

If all goes well, I can pick it up on Thursday! I am keeping my fingers crossed!
 

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yup....exactly what I thought....have then check your thermstats while he is there to make sure they are not hyperextended.
 

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Just a reminder, this cavitation damage to the front cover (and likely other cavitation damage not yet detected) is what is prevented by the coolant maintenance procedures specified in the owners manual - namely the coolant nitrite testing at 20k intervals with addition of VC-8 additive if the level is below 800ppm, and the 60k coolant system flush with VC-9 and refill with fresh coolant.

This is specified maintenance in the owners manual, so technically Ford could deny warranty claims for cavitation damage if this maintenance was not done. I've not heard of such denials, but better safe than sorry, and even if they do cover it under warranty, wouldn't you rather not have the damage and down time to begin with?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Got it back - all done! PROBLEM SOLVED

I brought it to the dealer on Monday and got it back today - all done! ALL WARRANTY! The engine front cover had a pin-hole. The dealer replaced the cover, the thermostats and the water pump along with the necessary maintenance work such as oil/filter change, flushing, treating and refilling of cooling system - ALL WARRANTY!

I had some additional work done such as replace the fuel filters and regular service check-up.

Fantastic service, not only speedy and unproblematic, but on top of it all, very friendly, helpful and competent! They even washed it before I picked it up.
I am thrilled - runs great, feels like new!

As far as cooling system maintenance is concerned: Not only had I replaced the radiator at 16K miles (with the inevitable flush/refill), I further flushed and refilled the cooling system at 36K miles, then at 48K miles had the thermostats replaced (one was hyper-extended) and now at 60K miles had cavitation. I don't know, what else I could or should have done that could have prevented this.
 

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I've been following your thread and must say that I'm excited for you and the resolution of your problem. Seems to me after reading many of the issues that people have had that there is much that revolves around having a good, reputable dealer. It's obvious you found one. They definitely deserve kudos for their customer service. Congratulations to you!!
 

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seems to me that you probably should have had the front cover the water pump looked at when they did the thermostats, but at least you are good now.
 

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I brought it to the dealer on Monday and got it back today - all done! ALL WARRANTY! The engine front cover had a pin-hole. The dealer replaced the cover, the thermostats and the water pump along with the necessary maintenance work such as oil/filter change, flushing, treating and refilling of cooling system - ALL WARRANTY!

I had some additional work done such as replace the fuel filters and regular service check-up.

Fantastic service, not only speedy and unproblematic, but on top of it all, very friendly, helpful and competent! They even washed it before I picked it up.
I am thrilled - runs great, feels like new!

As far as cooling system maintenance is concerned: Not only had I replaced the radiator at 16K miles (with the inevitable flush/refill), I further flushed and refilled the cooling system at 36K miles, then at 48K miles had the thermostats replaced (one was hyper-extended) and now at 60K miles had cavitation. I don't know, what else I could or should have done that could have prevented this.
While all those refills should have kept the nitrite levels up, where they actual flushed with VC-9 cleaner as specified in the manual, or just the more typical fresh water rinse? I believe that not performing the cleaning step can cause the coolant to not be able to work properly to protect the engine from cavitation.

Take a look at the "6.0L & 6.4L Diesel Coolant Health Video on PTS" video linked halfway down the page here:

Untitled Document
 

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Does that link still work? I have not been able to play the video on two different computers now. I also thought that the video said that the VC-9 was not required unless the nitite level fell below a certain level.
 

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So was it Smith Ford you took it to? I am very familiar with that dealer, and have heard both good and bad about them. I take mine to Courtesy Ford in Pocatello.
 

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Does that link still work? I have not been able to play the video on two different computers now. I also thought that the video said that the VC-9 was not required unless the nitite level fell below a certain level.
Yes, the link still works, I have the video playing now on this PC.

VC-8 and VC-9 are two different chemicals. Per the manual, the VC-9 iron cleaner is supposed to be used in the 60k mi coolant flush / replacement.

The VC-8 supplemental coolant additive is used at the 20k mi and 40k mi coolant tests if the test shows the nitrite level is below 800ppm.

If the nitrite level is below 300ppm you can't use the VC-8 and you have to do the flush, clean with VC-9 and refill with fresh coolant, even if it's before the 60k mi mark.

Note that the video clearly specifies that for the VC-9 flush the engine has to run at elevated idle (2,000RPM) for a full hour. Fortunately, you can use the SEIC mode to do this, vs. needing the VCM/IDS scanner.

Note that the service for an oil contaminated system is very long, requiring some four hours (4x 1hr) of engine run time plus the time to do the drains and fills between runs.

Also note that the Ford video makes a point of specifying the use of distilled or Reverse Osmosis filtered water to fill the system, not just plain (hard) tap water (or off PH, or high chlorine).
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes, Smith Ford in Rexburg.
I will definitively go back there... Great service!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Since I was at 60K miles, they did all of that including VC-9 flush and the works.
 

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My F550 has exactly 60K miles on it and for the most part, it ran without troubles all that time (3 years). I never go past 5K miles with my synthetic oil and I am pretty diligent in checking oil and coolant levels regularly.

So, it happened that when I got back from on my last trip (about 200 miles) I noticed that it had a hard time going over Teton Pass (pretty steep - sustained 10% grades). It was in regen, but even while regening, it never struggled that hard. Fuel mileage seemed a bit lower than normal, but not other issues. The coolant temperature stayed normal and I did not notice any smoke of any kind and the exhaust pipes look normal.

This morning after the engine had an overnight cool-down I checked under the hood and to my surprise found that the coolant was about 4 inches below normal fill. Getting worried, I checked the oil and re-checked it probably 5 times using the short-stick method. The oil level was over the meter (even with short-stick)! I have never seen this kind of rise in oil level. Hence, I put an oil pan under and drained maybe 2 or so quarts of it. Horrified, I noticed the "splashing" (never seen that before when draining oil) and when I looked closer in the pan, I noticed that there was water in the oil! Most likely a good portion of it came out as it might have been sitting on the bottom of the oil pan.

I drove it carefully to the shop and they are looking at it as of this writing. However, my question: How can coolant enter the engine and get into the oil?
Is it possible that coolant is able to leak into the engine from the water pump?

Any help/suggestions are much appreciated!
Thanks!





Did you ever find the culprit? having same exact issues.
 

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Did you ever find the culprit? having same exact issues.
10 Year old thread, and the original poster hasn't been see in almost 5 years. You'd be better off starting your own thread, with a full description of your issue including a description of your truck.
 

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Did you ever find the culprit? having same exact issues.
Kevin is correct, you need to start your own thread. As for “finding the culprit” to the old thread you’re reading see #26 by OP - it has the full detail. Welcome to the forum.
 
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