Low Fuel Mileage
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Joined
·
2,080 Posts
First of all, which truck? I will presume you are talking about the Y2k F350.
Second of all, did you recalibrate the speedometer and odometer after fitting the 285s?
If not, you're traveling more actual miles than what your odometer is telling you, and therefore you're actually getting better fuel economy than what your calculations show.
What pressure do you run in your tires?
Below 70 psi the mileage begins to drop.
Is your truck lifted?
Lift kits reduce fuel economy.
Are your front hubs stuck in the locked position?
Have you checked for boost leaks?
Have you checked for pre-turbine exhaust leaks?
The up-pipe donuts are the prime suspect on 7.3's.
If you have entrained air issues with your fuel your mileage can suffer.
One of the simplest ways to improve mileage on a longbed is to use a tonneau cover. My tonneau helps me to the tune of 1.5 to 1.75 mpg.
A simple 40 hp towing program or chip will improve your mileage. Or you can get DP Tuner's 80 Econo tune and see an even better improvement.
If you can stand it, switching back to 31.5" diameter tires will help your mileage. Either 265/75 R16 or 235/85 R16 will do.
One more thing, and I wish I had caught this a lot sooner:
Jack up your front wheels individually and see how freely they spin. If they don't spin as freely as a passenger car, your front brake pads are dragging. You'll be told this is normal for PSDs, which is probably true, but it isn't acceptable. You'll need to remove the corrosion from the ends of the pads and the region of the calipers that touch the pad ends, and then lubricate them with a silicon grease. The caliper slide pins needed to be inspected and lubricated. If they are pitted, they must be replaced. You probably ought to change your brake fluid while you're at it.
I will be able to report the effect of the pads dragging on the rotors due to corrosion and seizure of the ends on fuel economy in the next few weeks.
Second of all, did you recalibrate the speedometer and odometer after fitting the 285s?
If not, you're traveling more actual miles than what your odometer is telling you, and therefore you're actually getting better fuel economy than what your calculations show.
What pressure do you run in your tires?
Below 70 psi the mileage begins to drop.
Is your truck lifted?
Lift kits reduce fuel economy.
Are your front hubs stuck in the locked position?
Have you checked for boost leaks?
Have you checked for pre-turbine exhaust leaks?
The up-pipe donuts are the prime suspect on 7.3's.
If you have entrained air issues with your fuel your mileage can suffer.
One of the simplest ways to improve mileage on a longbed is to use a tonneau cover. My tonneau helps me to the tune of 1.5 to 1.75 mpg.
A simple 40 hp towing program or chip will improve your mileage. Or you can get DP Tuner's 80 Econo tune and see an even better improvement.
If you can stand it, switching back to 31.5" diameter tires will help your mileage. Either 265/75 R16 or 235/85 R16 will do.
One more thing, and I wish I had caught this a lot sooner:
Jack up your front wheels individually and see how freely they spin. If they don't spin as freely as a passenger car, your front brake pads are dragging. You'll be told this is normal for PSDs, which is probably true, but it isn't acceptable. You'll need to remove the corrosion from the ends of the pads and the region of the calipers that touch the pad ends, and then lubricate them with a silicon grease. The caliper slide pins needed to be inspected and lubricated. If they are pitted, they must be replaced. You probably ought to change your brake fluid while you're at it.
I will be able to report the effect of the pads dragging on the rotors due to corrosion and seizure of the ends on fuel economy in the next few weeks.
Joined
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174 Posts
Yeah, I was about to post something on fuel mileage to. I had an injector changed out and ever since then my mileage has sucked. I had been comfortably getting about 260 miles out of 23 gallons of diesel. Now I`m only getting about 220 to 230 miles. This is a drastic drop. How do you check all that turbo leaking stuff. Trucks running srong as ever. I have not had my speedometer adjusted since my lift but all my mileage info is with my lift on. (Ok Math Experts) My speedometer is consistantly 8-10 MPH off. At an average empty fill up I put 23 gallons of diesel in it and my odometer said I`d drove 260 miles but how far had I really gone? Of course this is all past tense due to the fact something is wrong with my truck.
Joined
·
2,572 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
Here is some late night reading:
http://h1.ripway.com/nlemerise/Ford/MPG_Secrets_Whitepaper.pdf
[/ QUOTE ]
Good stuff.
Here is some late night reading:
http://h1.ripway.com/nlemerise/Ford/MPG_Secrets_Whitepaper.pdf
[/ QUOTE ]
Good stuff.
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
36x14.50 Ground Hawg 2`s on . . . . 260 miles out of 23 gallons of diesel.
[/ QUOTE ]
If your speedo is calibrated to OEM tires, which have a diameter of 31.5 to 31.7 inches, your 23 gallons of diesel was actually carrying you 295 miles, which divedended 12.84 mpg.
[ QUOTE ]
Now I`m only getting about 220 to 230 miles.
[/ QUOTE ]Your new distance-to-empty is 250 miles. 10.86 mpg.
[ QUOTE ]
This is a drastic drop.
[/ QUOTE ] It's a 15.4% drop. The determination of a proper adjective for your drop, for instance, drastic, is highly subjective. It's certainly an undesirable drop.
[ QUOTE ]
How do you check all that turbo leaking stuff.
[/ QUOTE ] You build a boost leak checking device. You need PVC pipe adapters and parts to adapt from the smooth ID of the waffled rubber hose that is connected to the compressor inlet, to an air compressor male fitting. Use the OEM hose clamp to clamp your device into the air cleaner side of this hose, the other end being still connected to the turbo.
Then you dial your air pressure regulator down to 20 psi or less (so you aren't spinning your turbo excessively while the lube supply is off) and hook an air line to the device. Listen closely for hissing. Use a little talcum powder if you need help. There will be a deep-toned hiss, coming from deeep inside the motor, where the air has found the pair of valves that are both slightly open.
For exhaust leaks, first check the up-pipes from the exhaust manifolds to the turbine. There are joints in these pipes. There sandwiched pretty tight between the back of the heads and the firewall. Basically you're checking that region for signs of soot deposits.
[ QUOTE ]
. . . I have not had my speedometer adjusted since my lift but all my mileage info is with my lift on.
[/ QUOTE ] This most probably means that you're getting better actual fuel economy than what you are able to calculate. Your cost per mile isn't as bad as you think.
[ QUOTE ]
. . . My speedometer is consistantly 8-10 MPH off.
[/ QUOTE ] Actually, your speedometer is off by a percentage, not a mph figure. The speedo and the odometer are sometimes not in sync, but I estimate your speedo is off by 13.6%. So it's off by 8 mph at 60 mph, and it's off by 10 mph at 75 mph.
Be careful out there. The law knows that you can have that speedo recalibrated. Minding the speed limit is your responsibility, with or without a properly calibrated speedometer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
36x14.50 Ground Hawg 2`s on . . . . 260 miles out of 23 gallons of diesel.
[/ QUOTE ]
If your speedo is calibrated to OEM tires, which have a diameter of 31.5 to 31.7 inches, your 23 gallons of diesel was actually carrying you 295 miles, which divedended 12.84 mpg.
[ QUOTE ]
Now I`m only getting about 220 to 230 miles.
[/ QUOTE ]Your new distance-to-empty is 250 miles. 10.86 mpg.
[ QUOTE ]
This is a drastic drop.
[/ QUOTE ] It's a 15.4% drop. The determination of a proper adjective for your drop, for instance, drastic, is highly subjective. It's certainly an undesirable drop.
[ QUOTE ]
How do you check all that turbo leaking stuff.
[/ QUOTE ] You build a boost leak checking device. You need PVC pipe adapters and parts to adapt from the smooth ID of the waffled rubber hose that is connected to the compressor inlet, to an air compressor male fitting. Use the OEM hose clamp to clamp your device into the air cleaner side of this hose, the other end being still connected to the turbo.
Then you dial your air pressure regulator down to 20 psi or less (so you aren't spinning your turbo excessively while the lube supply is off) and hook an air line to the device. Listen closely for hissing. Use a little talcum powder if you need help. There will be a deep-toned hiss, coming from deeep inside the motor, where the air has found the pair of valves that are both slightly open.
For exhaust leaks, first check the up-pipes from the exhaust manifolds to the turbine. There are joints in these pipes. There sandwiched pretty tight between the back of the heads and the firewall. Basically you're checking that region for signs of soot deposits.
[ QUOTE ]
. . . I have not had my speedometer adjusted since my lift but all my mileage info is with my lift on.
[/ QUOTE ] This most probably means that you're getting better actual fuel economy than what you are able to calculate. Your cost per mile isn't as bad as you think.
[ QUOTE ]
. . . My speedometer is consistantly 8-10 MPH off.
[/ QUOTE ] Actually, your speedometer is off by a percentage, not a mph figure. The speedo and the odometer are sometimes not in sync, but I estimate your speedo is off by 13.6%. So it's off by 8 mph at 60 mph, and it's off by 10 mph at 75 mph.
Be careful out there. The law knows that you can have that speedo recalibrated. Minding the speed limit is your responsibility, with or without a properly calibrated speedometer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
[ QUOTE ]
First of all, which truck? I will presume you are talking about the Y2k F350.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes you guessed right it's the Y2K Truck.... (this is the 99+ forum)
[ QUOTE ]
Second of all, did you recalibrate the speedometer and odometer after fitting the 285s?
If not, you're traveling more actual miles than what your odometer is telling you, and therefore you're actually getting better fuel economy than what your calculations show.
[/ QUOTE ]
No I didn't in the first place I am not sure how to do it and secondly according to my GPS my Speedo is right on.... it was off before the new tires then after the tires it's dead on according to my GPS... so that confused me a bit there so still not sure what the scoup on that is....
[ QUOTE ]
What pressure do you run in your tires?
Below 70 psi the mileage begins to drop.
[/ QUOTE ]
I run 35 in front and 30 in back... a friend that runs those BFG's for years now tells me they wear best at that preasure.... and so far that seems to be accurate....
[ QUOTE ]
Is your truck lifted?
Lift kits reduce fuel economy.
[/ QUOTE ]
No Lift Just stock
[ QUOTE ]
Are your front hubs stuck in the locked position?
[/ QUOTE ]
as far as I know they are free I can go double check but I am 99.99% sure they are free....
[ QUOTE ]
Have you checked for boost leaks?
Have you checked for pre-turbine exhaust leaks?
The up-pipe donuts are the prime suspect on 7.3's.
[/ QUOTE ]
no I haven't and I see you already covered how to do that will give that a shot... do you know what the ID of that rubber hose is? and do I need to plug off the exhaust of the turbo somehow?
[ QUOTE ]
If you have entrained air issues with your fuel your mileage can suffer.
[/ QUOTE ]
Air Issues? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
[ QUOTE ]
One of the simplest ways to improve mileage on a longbed is to use a tonneau cover. My tonneau helps me to the tune of 1.5 to 1.75 mpg.
[/ QUOTE ]
unfourntly that won't work for me because I use the bed I hardly ever drive it empty...
[ QUOTE ]
A simple 40 hp towing program or chip will improve your mileage. Or you can get DP Tuner's 80 Econo tune and see an even better improvement.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have the Edge Evloution programer.... but it seems to make it worse... even on just the #1 setting (btw I do have the Modded IDM in this truck... by Beans Diesel it's modded up to 140V dunno if that is killing my fuel mileage but it never was higher then 14 before the mod either, I did get 1 time 17 MPG that was the first tank after I bought it driving it home from TX but haven't seen that since.
[ QUOTE ]
If you can stand it, switching back to 31.5" diameter tires will help your mileage. Either 265/75 R16 or 235/85 R16 will do.
[/ QUOTE ]
noooo I like my tires
[ QUOTE ]
One more thing, and I wish I had caught this a lot sooner:
Jack up your front wheels individually and see how freely they spin. If they don't spin as freely as a passenger car, your front brake pads are dragging. You'll be told this is normal for PSDs, which is probably true, but it isn't acceptable. You'll need to remove the corrosion from the ends of the pads and the region of the calipers that touch the pad ends, and then lubricate them with a silicon grease. The caliper slide pins needed to be inspected and lubricated. If they are pitted, they must be replaced. You probably ought to change your brake fluid while you're at it.
I will be able to report the effect of the pads dragging on the rotors due to corrosion and seizure of the ends on fuel economy in the next few weeks.
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm gonna do that next chance I get.... very good thought!
Thanks so much!
---------
and 8V92TTA that looks like some good reading! thanks for the linky! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
First of all, which truck? I will presume you are talking about the Y2k F350.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes you guessed right it's the Y2K Truck.... (this is the 99+ forum)
[ QUOTE ]
Second of all, did you recalibrate the speedometer and odometer after fitting the 285s?
If not, you're traveling more actual miles than what your odometer is telling you, and therefore you're actually getting better fuel economy than what your calculations show.
[/ QUOTE ]
No I didn't in the first place I am not sure how to do it and secondly according to my GPS my Speedo is right on.... it was off before the new tires then after the tires it's dead on according to my GPS... so that confused me a bit there so still not sure what the scoup on that is....
[ QUOTE ]
What pressure do you run in your tires?
Below 70 psi the mileage begins to drop.
[/ QUOTE ]
I run 35 in front and 30 in back... a friend that runs those BFG's for years now tells me they wear best at that preasure.... and so far that seems to be accurate....
[ QUOTE ]
Is your truck lifted?
Lift kits reduce fuel economy.
[/ QUOTE ]
No Lift Just stock
[ QUOTE ]
Are your front hubs stuck in the locked position?
[/ QUOTE ]
as far as I know they are free I can go double check but I am 99.99% sure they are free....
[ QUOTE ]
Have you checked for boost leaks?
Have you checked for pre-turbine exhaust leaks?
The up-pipe donuts are the prime suspect on 7.3's.
[/ QUOTE ]
no I haven't and I see you already covered how to do that will give that a shot... do you know what the ID of that rubber hose is? and do I need to plug off the exhaust of the turbo somehow?
[ QUOTE ]
If you have entrained air issues with your fuel your mileage can suffer.
[/ QUOTE ]
Air Issues? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
[ QUOTE ]
One of the simplest ways to improve mileage on a longbed is to use a tonneau cover. My tonneau helps me to the tune of 1.5 to 1.75 mpg.
[/ QUOTE ]
unfourntly that won't work for me because I use the bed I hardly ever drive it empty...
[ QUOTE ]
A simple 40 hp towing program or chip will improve your mileage. Or you can get DP Tuner's 80 Econo tune and see an even better improvement.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have the Edge Evloution programer.... but it seems to make it worse... even on just the #1 setting (btw I do have the Modded IDM in this truck... by Beans Diesel it's modded up to 140V dunno if that is killing my fuel mileage but it never was higher then 14 before the mod either, I did get 1 time 17 MPG that was the first tank after I bought it driving it home from TX but haven't seen that since.
[ QUOTE ]
If you can stand it, switching back to 31.5" diameter tires will help your mileage. Either 265/75 R16 or 235/85 R16 will do.
[/ QUOTE ]
noooo I like my tires
[ QUOTE ]
One more thing, and I wish I had caught this a lot sooner:
Jack up your front wheels individually and see how freely they spin. If they don't spin as freely as a passenger car, your front brake pads are dragging. You'll be told this is normal for PSDs, which is probably true, but it isn't acceptable. You'll need to remove the corrosion from the ends of the pads and the region of the calipers that touch the pad ends, and then lubricate them with a silicon grease. The caliper slide pins needed to be inspected and lubricated. If they are pitted, they must be replaced. You probably ought to change your brake fluid while you're at it.
I will be able to report the effect of the pads dragging on the rotors due to corrosion and seizure of the ends on fuel economy in the next few weeks.
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm gonna do that next chance I get.... very good thought!
Thanks so much!
---------
and 8V92TTA that looks like some good reading! thanks for the linky! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I have the same tires on my F250.
GPS says I am faster by 1.5 MPH at 75 MPH reading on the speedo.
In town I get 12.5 MPG keeping the RPM at 2000. Driving more agressive I get 10.5 in town.
Recent highway only miles trip to Boulder and back, majority of the way cruise set at 75 MPH I got 19 MPG.
Previous trip to Denver and back with Quad trailer in tow and terrible winds I got 12.5 MPG.
Tim
GPS says I am faster by 1.5 MPH at 75 MPH reading on the speedo.
In town I get 12.5 MPG keeping the RPM at 2000. Driving more agressive I get 10.5 in town.
Recent highway only miles trip to Boulder and back, majority of the way cruise set at 75 MPH I got 19 MPG.
Previous trip to Denver and back with Quad trailer in tow and terrible winds I got 12.5 MPG.
Tim
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Second of all, did you recalibrate the speedometer and odometer after fitting the 285s?
If not, you're traveling more actual miles than what your odometer is telling you, and therefore you're actually getting better fuel economy than what your calculations show.
[/ QUOTE ]No I didn't in the first place I am not sure how to do it and secondly according to my GPS my Speedo is right on.... it was off before the new tires then after the tires it's dead on according to my GPS... so that confused me a bit there so still not sure what the scoup on that is....
[/ QUOTE ] You take your truck into the dealership and have them recalibrate the speedo and the odometer. It is reportedly a simple thing . . . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
Some guys have reported that their trucks from the factory had the odometer right on and the speedo reading high. Switching to 285s made the speedo read correctly, but now the odometer is reading low. I haven't had this experience, but I am relaying it to you because it is a factor you should investigate. From the factory, these trucks have sometimes been shipped with their odometers and speedometers calibrated out of synchronization.
[ QUOTE ]
I run 35 in front and 30 in back... a friend that runs those BFG's for years now tells me they wear best at that preasure.... and so far that seems to be accurate....
[/ QUOTE ] I don't have ownership experience with BFGs or mud tires of any sort. I understand that the lower pressure promotes better wear, and probably better off-road prowess. Increasing the pressure to lower their rolling resistance may be a compromise you'd be unwilling to make. If that's so, then you have dealt this hand to yourself.
I do have a suggestion: Find or buy a set of OEM rims that have been cast off by a fellow powerstroker who upgraded. Mount some highway tires on them, and you can change your wheels to suit your driving plans. That's what I did, but I got the mother of all deals on the second set of wheels - I bought them from my Mom for $200. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
do you know what the ID of that rubber hose is? and do I need to plug off the exhaust of the turbo somehow?
[/ QUOTE ] 4" and no. The valves plug off the other end of the induction system that you are checking for leaks. There is always a pair of them in one of the cylinders that are both slightly open, but you'll be able to tell the difference in sound between air passing through that cylinder and a bona fide external leak. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
Good Luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
[ QUOTE ]
Second of all, did you recalibrate the speedometer and odometer after fitting the 285s?
If not, you're traveling more actual miles than what your odometer is telling you, and therefore you're actually getting better fuel economy than what your calculations show.
[/ QUOTE ]No I didn't in the first place I am not sure how to do it and secondly according to my GPS my Speedo is right on.... it was off before the new tires then after the tires it's dead on according to my GPS... so that confused me a bit there so still not sure what the scoup on that is....
[/ QUOTE ] You take your truck into the dealership and have them recalibrate the speedo and the odometer. It is reportedly a simple thing . . . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
Some guys have reported that their trucks from the factory had the odometer right on and the speedo reading high. Switching to 285s made the speedo read correctly, but now the odometer is reading low. I haven't had this experience, but I am relaying it to you because it is a factor you should investigate. From the factory, these trucks have sometimes been shipped with their odometers and speedometers calibrated out of synchronization.
[ QUOTE ]
I run 35 in front and 30 in back... a friend that runs those BFG's for years now tells me they wear best at that preasure.... and so far that seems to be accurate....
[/ QUOTE ] I don't have ownership experience with BFGs or mud tires of any sort. I understand that the lower pressure promotes better wear, and probably better off-road prowess. Increasing the pressure to lower their rolling resistance may be a compromise you'd be unwilling to make. If that's so, then you have dealt this hand to yourself.
I do have a suggestion: Find or buy a set of OEM rims that have been cast off by a fellow powerstroker who upgraded. Mount some highway tires on them, and you can change your wheels to suit your driving plans. That's what I did, but I got the mother of all deals on the second set of wheels - I bought them from my Mom for $200. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
do you know what the ID of that rubber hose is? and do I need to plug off the exhaust of the turbo somehow?
[/ QUOTE ] 4" and no. The valves plug off the other end of the induction system that you are checking for leaks. There is always a pair of them in one of the cylinders that are both slightly open, but you'll be able to tell the difference in sound between air passing through that cylinder and a bona fide external leak. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
Good Luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
i have a 99.5 lifted with 35 " bfg ,i checked my speed and milage aganst my gps on the highway its about 1.5 to 2 miles to slow [speedomerter] and i need to add about 9 miles for every 100 miles traveled . 70 psi on the tires ? thats not to high ? bfg tires say 50 psi thats what i,ve been running ,do the tires where even at that pressure ?
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
i have a 99.5 lifted with 35 " bfg ,i checked my speed and milage aganst my gps on the highway its about 1.5 to 2 miles to slow [speedomerter] and i need to add about 9 miles for every 100 miles traveled .
[/ QUOTE ] Sounds like you need to recalibrate.
[ QUOTE ]
70 psi on the tires ? thats not to high ? bfg tires say 50 psi thats what i,ve been running ,do the tires where even at that pressure ?
[/ QUOTE ][ QUOTE ]
I don't have ownership experience with BFGs or mud tires of any sort.
[/ QUOTE ] I don't know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif I've never used anything but load range E tires on my superduties. If your BFG's can't handle more than 50 psi, then don't fill them to 70 psi.
I recommend that you check to see what the load carrying capabilities are for your tires. It would be nice to know that they are rated to at least carry the weight of the truck . . . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Your towing and hauling ability may be diminished by your tire selection.
<font color="green">Could one of you long-time mud tire owners chime in here and provide some guidance?</font> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Then liftkit can perform his own math and decide whether he wants to maximize tread life at 35 psi or fuel economy at 50 psi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
i have a 99.5 lifted with 35 " bfg ,i checked my speed and milage aganst my gps on the highway its about 1.5 to 2 miles to slow [speedomerter] and i need to add about 9 miles for every 100 miles traveled .
[/ QUOTE ] Sounds like you need to recalibrate.
[ QUOTE ]
70 psi on the tires ? thats not to high ? bfg tires say 50 psi thats what i,ve been running ,do the tires where even at that pressure ?
[/ QUOTE ][ QUOTE ]
I don't have ownership experience with BFGs or mud tires of any sort.
[/ QUOTE ] I don't know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif I've never used anything but load range E tires on my superduties. If your BFG's can't handle more than 50 psi, then don't fill them to 70 psi.
I recommend that you check to see what the load carrying capabilities are for your tires. It would be nice to know that they are rated to at least carry the weight of the truck . . . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Your towing and hauling ability may be diminished by your tire selection.
<font color="green">Could one of you long-time mud tire owners chime in here and provide some guidance?</font> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Then liftkit can perform his own math and decide whether he wants to maximize tread life at 35 psi or fuel economy at 50 psi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
i have a 99.5 lifted with 35 " bfg ,i checked my speed and milage aganst my gps on the highway its about 1.5 to 2 miles to slow [speedomerter] and i need to add about 9 miles for every 100 miles traveled . 70 psi on the tires ? thats not to high ? bfg tires say 50 psi thats what i,ve been running ,do the tires where even at that pressure ?
[/ QUOTE ]
you can run 70 if you want to... when I put a big load in the truck I pump em up
i have a 99.5 lifted with 35 " bfg ,i checked my speed and milage aganst my gps on the highway its about 1.5 to 2 miles to slow [speedomerter] and i need to add about 9 miles for every 100 miles traveled . 70 psi on the tires ? thats not to high ? bfg tires say 50 psi thats what i,ve been running ,do the tires where even at that pressure ?
[/ QUOTE ]
you can run 70 if you want to... when I put a big load in the truck I pump em up
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