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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Again All!

(2003 Ford F350 Lariat) (Codes read on Edge/Juice with Attitude Module)

My Dad and I have been attempting to diagnose our truck, which has been difficult. We did the oil cooler and IPR last fall (debris in IPR, no-start). Ran well for a bit, normal power and performance. We just had to do the oil cooler cover gasket because it was for some reason leaking (not Dorman, but we put a Ford part in this time). Oil leak is resolved at the moment. However, after finishing the work, the truck has had no power, which makes me think the repair process caused the issue. Visual inspection revealed nothing disconnected or loose, and I don't remember doing anything different from the first oil cooler job.
-Codes:
P0107-BARO/MAP Sensor - Been around for a while now, MAP is plugged in, and nipple on intake looks okay. Perhaps a hose leak or electrical issue somewhere else?
P0113-IAT High Input - Also been around for a long time, not sure what the issue is. Might try replacing sensor at some point.
P0266 and P0272 - Cylinder 2 and 4 Contribution Faults - Injectors? We have been having balance codes with the even numbered cylinders. These codes I don't feel are related to loss of power, because they've been around for awhile.
P0673 - Glow Plug #3 Circuit Open-Replace Glow Plug 3, or issue in GPCM?
P02127, P2136, P2140 - All Throttle Pedal-Related codes. I have read other forums about these and similar ones. One problem I read about is the EBP harness, which I have checked everywhere I can. The air filter in our truck is aftermarket (Magnum Force AFE), and cannot be removed without taking out coolant bottle, I don't think. Therefore, inspection of the harness at this point is difficult.
P2264 - Turbo/Supercharger Boost Not Detected/Mechanical - Wondering if this is just a "dummy code" because the truck is have throttle pedal/sensor problems. Could there be turbo issues though? FYI, turbo isn't stock. It is a non-VGT Turbonetics T4 (I think?) Compressor wheel spins freely, but I have had a persistent exhaust leak at the down pipe, which wasn't fixed by a brand-new clamp. Any advice on that leak would be appreciated.
P0500- Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Malfunction - Also a dummy code because of lack of acceleration?
-Symptoms
No Boost
EGTs drop when climbing hills (kinda weird...)
Struggles when loaded down or climbing hills
Getting from 0 to 60 is difficult, even with pedal to the floor
Various trouble codes as described above
Engine runs a little hotter (190 F) used to be around 174 F
I know that a scan tool that can read live data will be something I'll be asked about. We don't have one, but I am open to getting one if it is truly necessary (I want to save the money if I can though). Feel free to tell me what the best brands are, but I want to see if this could be resolved without one (not that I won't need it later on). Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
About the exhaust leak, that started happening after first oil cooler job. It hasn't affected boost or power that I know of, but it has produced a diesel-smell in the cab. The new clamp made it a little better I think, but didn't fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does anyone have any ideas? Don't mean to bother, just figured I'd bump the post up because it has been a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
is your ficm good? what is the voltage? if your looking for a code reader use forscan the usb version and get a laptop and check it. from my personal knowledge is that you can check your systems that way and monitor. to me you seem to be getting a lot of electrical codes and the ficm controls your fuel system (fuel injection control module). Is everything togther? if so check your ficm and see if it is giving you 48v
Everything is together at this point, and I tried to double check every wiring harness that is visible at this point. However, I can wiggle and check the FICM connectors one more time to be sure. The connectors have broken clips unfortunatly, could those cause it to be loose enough to bring up contribution codes? Also, I have gotten a U0105 "Lost Communication with FICM" once, but the battery voltage was a little below normal at that time. It never came back, so I haven't worried about it too much, but it could possibly indicate an issue. Forscan has a free trial, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First a disclaimer - I know nothing about how a non-VGT turbo is controlled. Maybe others that do will see your thread and comment. Other than that, you can call a reputable vendor who sells turbos and maybe they can help. I recommend KC Turbo.

190 is normal engine (coolant) temperature.

The throttle codes are the most important to address first. It could be chafed wires. There is a harness crossover under the air filter, at a stud on the corner of the valve cover that can cause problems if the clip on the harness is missing and the stud is poking the bundle. Also, near the steering column, also where it goes through the firewall, or at the accelerator pedal pivot point. Lastly the PCM harness can chafe at/near the PCM, or a less common area would be under the degas bottle (essentially under the Battery Junction Box).

You are probably going to have to roll up your sleeves and remove the air intake and the degas bottle unless you find issues under the dash or by the valve cover or at the PCM.

Then address the MAP/Baro code. What are the numbers for MAP, BARO, and EBP at KOEO? What are they at idle? Run a wire through the nipple on the intake manifold that the MAP hose connects to. I would probably just replace the MAP hose to be sure it isn't plugged or leaking. Make sure it is solidly attached to the nipple and the sensor. Pull the EBP sensor. Run a large diameter weed-eater string through the EBP tube to make sure it is clear. Check the sensor for being plugged or heavily fouled.

P0113 for IAT is the MAF sensor and IAT. Look for chafing around the connector and under the air intake. Sometimes it is the connector itself, so you will need to inspect pins and maybe even tug on some wires a bit to see if any are loose. There is a DTR video on that. I'll find it later and post it.

Then address the glow plug codes. It could be just #3 glow plug or it could be the GPCM or it could be the harness. You are just going to have to do testing to nail that down. You need a Digital Multi Meter. There is a video on that also. I'll track it down later.

The contribution codes on the two injectors could be the injectors, could be related to issues with high pressure oil pressure, or could be mechanical. FICM codes usually are electrical, but I suppose it could be the FICM also.

After fixing the above stuff, then start looking at the high pressure oil pressure when the engine is hot:
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
ICP desired

You need a VSS signal. You may have to replace it. It is on the rear differential.

.... And of course you need to fix the exhaust leak ....
Thank you for the videos, I'm sure they'll answer a lot of questions.

As far as the non-vgt turbo, it isn't controlled electronically in any way like the vgt, if that's what you mean. It is a pretty simple, traditional turbocharger.

I agree with you about the wire chaffing. I'll look at all of those points and see what I come up with. If it is chaffing, how is that repaired?

We actually replaced the MAP sensor (hose and all I think) back in January of 2021, and it hasn't driven a whole lot since, but I know that is susceptible to soot, so I'll clean it up and go from there.

Luckily, we have a multimeter, so we can test glow plugs, and any other connectors that need testing. If everything in the high pressure oil system is healthy, we are planning on injector replacment in the fall or winter, when the truck won't be needed as often. Forscan can check all of the high pressure oil values that you mentioned, correct?

Thank you so much for your suggestions! Have a great Sunday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
those broken tabs can definetly cause you issues. the ficm is made to fit snug and in there. a work around that I have seen is people using zipties around the ficm and the connectors. dont quote me on it but I have seen it and in theory I would think that it would work.
FICM is Bulletproof, did a voltage test and got 52V, which is good I think. It was a four-pin design. I could try zipties, what could it hurt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ForScan full version can be had for free. Do not pay for it!

It can pull all the PCM data.

Do you have a waste gate on the non-VGT turbo?
You did have to go with custom tuning - correct?
So I am saying I do not know how MAP and EBP are used in that engine control strategy .............
Found chafing near front of driver's valve cover, but it looks like it may have been fixed before under air filter. What do you think the truck's lack of boost? Do you think it'll boost once the throttle is fixed and the truck can produce greater exhaust pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
your voltage seems fine but a little high? I am no expert and I am sure someone will chime in on that. as for the chafing, that needs to be fixed. check the wires for breaks, fray and stiffness. if it looks bad and you can see that it is worn then chances are it could be worn. without seeing what wires your talking about it could be several things. I am thinking that you are just having electrical issues. I personally am dealing with my own crap (pulling engine with just me).
I am so sorry that I haven’t gotten back to you guys, I have had a lot going on lately that hasn’t involved the truck. Turns out we may need the truck for some upcoming hauling (maybe), so I really want to resolve this.

I might have the 53V FICM from BPD, but I wish there was a way to know for sure.

After taking out the coolant bottle and air filter, and finding that chafing, I repaired it with electrical tape. I really thought I had found the problem. I wasn’t sure what the connector was at the time, but I discovered it was to the glow plug harness (should’ve known). I put it back together and tested it, but the issue hasn’t been resolved just yet. Hoping I don’t have to pull it apart and drain coolant again, but I might. So anyway, it’s back in the driveway, and I’m still confused, but more than happy to attempt to fix it! :D

My glow plug harnesses look exactly like these, the chafing was one the connector that connects to the harness:

Motorcraft ZD-12 Glow Plugs Harness GPCM For Early Powerstroke
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
BPD sells a standard 48V, a 53V, and a 58V FICM. Who knows what you have. In addition, the FICM can be bad on the logic side.

Good advice above to get the wiring issues resolved at first. You can fix what looks damaged, but testing is going to be more definitive I believe.
Can Forscan diagnose problems on the FICM’s logic side? I actually pulled the MAP sensor hose and intake fitting, and both are squeaky clean. Does this pretty much narrow my MAP code down to an electrical problem? I cleared the codes after “fixing” that glow plug harness chafing. After clearing, Glow Plug #3, IAT, and MAP codes came right back. After a bit of idle, the turbocharger mechanical code came back (why after only idling?). Then after brief road test, the cylinder 4 contribution fault came back. No throttle codes yet, but those usually require a bit of driving to appear. I cannot get it to boost… Could there be an intake air leak that is allowing the air pressure to escape, and also causing the engine to lack power, or is the engine not producing enough exhaust pressure to build the turbo boost?

I looked at some wiring diagrams in my Chilton manual, but those don’t help a whole lot when I am actually looking under the hood. I am inspecting every wire I can, but I don’t know what each one goes to, although I can usually find out some how. I don’t know which wires to follow from the engine to the firewall, but I’m trying. It looks like the one under the air filter has had its “shell” cut back and has been wrapped by someone else before. Should I inspect it and re-wrap it? Could relays/fuses cause any issues like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I did look into the edge tuner for my 2001 24 valve Cummins many years ago. The fact that they wanted you to tap into the wiring harness is butchering the electrical system. Had they engineered a connector harness with gold plated contacts connectors I might have considered it. I don’t know what your configuration is. But be skeptical. My neighbor kid bought the 6.0 years ago a story from hell after the second one. Some wires got pinched up on the alternator side raised hell with the FICM. Lucky he didn’t burn it down. I am no fan of 6.0, but your problem is sounding similar. If that Edge tuner isn’t plug and play I would throw it in the trash. I was a electrical contact connector inspector for military parts a few years ago and have no respect for anything that isn’t Gold plated .
This is some good info, but I can’t help much on the Edge module (I didn’t put it in), but I could look at it and see if it is plug and play. As far as the pinched wires, I could have a similar problem. I can go over my work again, and make sure no wires got damaged by me. It was fine when it went in the shop for repair, and it came out with poor throttle response. Something very well could’ve happened during the repair job.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Alright, so I've been working on trying to find the problem for the past few days, and I have come up completely empty handed. I checked over pretty much everything Bismic suggested and found no evident damage to the wiring. When the engine revs in place, it climbs to over 4000 rpm and sounds like a healthy, normal 6.0 (I think...), but it is a completely different story on the road. Absolutely no boost, I am guessing because it isn't building enough exhaust pressure. It sounds like its pulling something, but obviously, it isn't.

I have considered that maybe the pedal is the culprit, but I am hesitant to replace it. I don't see how the pedal could be the problem when it hasn't driven for a while. Pedals don't just go bad when they're unused for a little while, do they?

@bismic Do you have any pictures by chance of those locations you mentioned in your first reply. I can inspect them again, but it would be nice to know the exact locations so that I don't miss anything. If you don't, no problem! Also, I've tried to follow the wires from the pedal to the engine compartment by following the colors, but I can never find those same colors coming out from the firewall... Any tips?
 
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