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First a disclaimer - I know nothing about how a non-VGT turbo is controlled. Maybe others that do will see your thread and comment. Other than that, you can call a reputable vendor who sells turbos and maybe they can help. I recommend KC Turbo.

190 is normal engine (coolant) temperature.

The throttle codes are the most important to address first. It could be chafed wires. There is a harness crossover under the air filter, at a stud on the corner of the valve cover that can cause problems if the clip on the harness is missing and the stud is poking the bundle. Also, near the steering column, also where it goes through the firewall, or at the accelerator pedal pivot point. Lastly the PCM harness can chafe at/near the PCM, or a less common area would be under the degas bottle (essentially under the Battery Junction Box).

You are probably going to have to roll up your sleeves and remove the air intake and the degas bottle unless you find issues under the dash or by the valve cover or at the PCM.

Then address the MAP/Baro code. What are the numbers for MAP, BARO, and EBP at KOEO? What are they at idle? Run a wire through the nipple on the intake manifold that the MAP hose connects to. I would probably just replace the MAP hose to be sure it isn't plugged or leaking. Make sure it is solidly attached to the nipple and the sensor. Pull the EBP sensor. Run a large diameter weed-eater string through the EBP tube to make sure it is clear. Check the sensor for being plugged or heavily fouled.

P0113 for IAT is the MAF sensor and IAT. Look for chafing around the connector and under the air intake. Sometimes it is the connector itself, so you will need to inspect pins and maybe even tug on some wires a bit to see if any are loose. There is a DTR video on that. I'll find it later and post it.

Then address the glow plug codes. It could be just #3 glow plug or it could be the GPCM or it could be the harness. You are just going to have to do testing to nail that down. You need a Digital Multi Meter. There is a video on that also. I'll track it down later.

The contribution codes on the two injectors could be the injectors, could be related to issues with high pressure oil pressure, or could be mechanical. FICM codes usually are electrical, but I suppose it could be the FICM also.

After fixing the above stuff, then start looking at the high pressure oil pressure when the engine is hot:
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
ICP desired

You need a VSS signal. You may have to replace it. It is on the rear differential.

.... And of course you need to fix the exhaust leak ....
 

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P0113 troubleshooting:


Glow Plug troubleshooting:


 

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BTW - P2264 is water in the fuel on a 6.0L, not a turbo code.
 

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ForScan full version can be had for free. Do not pay for it!

It can pull all the PCM data.

Do you have a waste gate on the non-VGT turbo?
You did have to go with custom tuning - correct?
So I am saying I do not know how MAP and EBP are used in that engine control strategy .............
 

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BPD sells a standard 48V, a 53V, and a 58V FICM. Who knows what you have. In addition, the FICM can be bad on the logic side.

Good advice above to get the wiring issues resolved at first. You can fix what looks damaged, but testing is going to be more definitive I believe.
 

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12-13 volts at idle isn't acceptable. You need at least in the mid 13's.
 
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It should after the glow plugs turn off.
 
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