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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am embarrassed to admit, but I’ve been really bad about the maintenance I have not done on my cooling system. My truck currently has about 131k miles on it and so far I haven't had any issues with water pumps, thermostat or leaks. But I also haven't done a darn thing to it either, haven't changed the coolant let alone test it.

I will be replacing the thermostat since I will have it apart to do the flush procedures, but do not know whether I need a new housing? Also, do I need to purchase a separate “O” ring, or does it come with the thermostat or with the housing (if I need that). Most people here say that you should coat the “O” ring with RTV when reinstalling, do you just put it on the ring or the mating surfaces also. What kind of RTV, Black Hi-Temp? Should I use new bolts too and use anti-sieze on the bolts?

Should I replace the pump too? I really don’t know I want to drop another $200+ on the pump since mine hasn’t given me any problems so far, but am I riding on borrowed time? Since I haven’t maintained my coolant, I can’ t believe its lasted this long. If I wait, does the pump give you warning signs that its going out or is it sudden?

I am adding a coolant filter to my truck as well, figure better late than never. Do I add this after I flush the system?


Already have new hoses waiting including the dual alt one.

Lastly, I am thinking about switching from the gold over to the HD ELC coolant, but undecided on that. If not replacing the water pump, does that impact the decision on the water pump if I switch? I have found the Chevron Delo ELC locally for $18.03 about the same as the Gold from the dealer.

Sorry for all the questions, I don’t want to miss anything.
 

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You are better off to replace the t-stat housing with a new one. They are pretty cheap and seem to be the reason most guys have leaks. The OEM one is fine for this and works well, they just don't do so well after several years of being installed and corrosion.

The seal will come with the t-stat.

I only use a small bead of high temp rtv around the parameter of the housing. Let the rtv set up and install when it has a skin on it. Only use a 1/8" bead as that is all that is needed for a good seal.

You do not need to replace the pump, but it would be a good time since the coolant will be lost (at least some of it) when you replace the pump. If you do it later, you will need more fluid.

I would plan on having new bolts on hand, many get started on a job like this and have to replace them. Besides fresh bolts are always better than rusty ones.

I went with the Gold coolant over ELC. I figure I would have to change it at the same intervals anyway since the time is the limiting factor on mine, not mileage. Zerex G05 is the same as the Ford Gold coolant and is $13 a bottle where I live.
 

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I wouldn't replace the housing unless yours is really eaten up with corrosion - mine was just fine when I changed my pump at 175K. I wouldn't change the pump until you need to, either. I wouldn't even change your thermostat. I don't know if things have improved, but the off the shelf failure rate on thermostats used to be bad enough that we tested them all before installing them. The new one had a higher chance of being bad than a working used one.

Anti-seize is a good idea. The o-ring is probably the only thing you need to buy. That, and the coolant, distilled water, and a Prestone flush kit.

I highly recommend going with the ELC - especially with your history of not wanting to do the testing and additive routine.

I would put the filter setup on while you've got the system drained and flushed. That way, you've got new coolant with the new filtration - you won't have to worry about contaminating the new coolant.

Read Gooch's comments on this thread:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f67/coolant-sca-additives-203599/
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would plan on having new bolts on hand, many get started on a job like this and have to replace them. Besides fresh bolts are always better than rusty ones.
Do you happen to know the size?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would put the filter setup on while you've got the system drained and flushed. That way, you've got new coolant with the new filtration - you won't have to worry about contaminating the new coolant.
So do the draining procedures to flush out the old junk and then once I am clear and before I begin to put in the new coolant, splice the filter in then.
 

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That's what I'd do. Otherwise, you've got old coolant in your new filter.
 

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