The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What is the most weight you have ever towed with a stock 6.9 or a turboed 6.9 dually? what conditions? just got an 88 f350 and trying to get an idea of what its max is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,147 Posts
'87 was the last year for the 6.9, your '88 should have a 7.3 in it unless someone swapped engines. They're both good engines but low on power. I had an '85 F-350 dually with a 6.9, four speed trans and 3.55 rear axle ratio. Not a lot of power for towing, maybe towed a maximum of 14,000#'s and it was a struggle. The 7.3 wasn't much better. In late '93 Ford offered a factory turbo 7.3 that really helped the power. I had a '94 F-350 with the turbo 7.3 and it was night and day better than the non-turbo engines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the numbers and info Jesse. Im the 3rd owner of this truck, previous owner swapped in 6.9 and put a turbo on it. its got 4:10gears. another question does 4:10 offer better or worse fuel economy then 3:55? i dont know anything about gear ratios
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,680 Posts
6.9 is more durable, with the turbo it ought to be pretty credible in the power department. If you keep your foot out of it and be patient the gearing won't affect your mileage too much, while as JESSE 1 says above, it's very helpful for towing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks, I yet have to see what mpg I get. I just spent all day driving it for fun.

Have a few kinks to work out: rear antilock & brake lights are on. (swapped rear axle off a '95 F350 w/7.3 could that affect something?)

also engine light is on, though since it has no airbox on it maf sensor is disconected if it has one?

also has a rough idle/shudder, im thinking that it has a bad motor mount. also lots of wiring conections need to be fixed...

previous owners treated it like carp >.<
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
There are no electronics on your engine that will trip the MIL. Could be in the ABS or Transmission (if you have an E40D which is unlikely)
As for towing capacity, check the sticker on the door. Upping the horsepower does not increase your capacity, you are limited by your brake system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,303 Posts
Have a few kinks to work out: rear antilock & brake lights are on. (swapped rear axle off a '95 F350 w/7.3 could that affect something?)
Check that the 2-wire connector is plugged into the sensor on the side of the master cylinder, this is a common cause for the "REAR ABS" light to be on. The "BRAKE" light tells you there's a fault in the vacuum system, but if you're not feeling a MUCH higher than normal pedal effort - as in, needing both feet to push the pedal as hard as possible and you're still barely slowing down - then it's just a bad vacuum switch or a short.

also engine light is on, though since it has no airbox on it maf sensor is disconected if it has one?
The "ENGINE" light indicated an overheated cooling system, and should also swing the coolant temp gauge needle to the upper end. Possible causes are a bad temp switch, or a short in the circuit. My light has been on for about a year now, eventually I'll get around to finding the cause and taking care of it. Personally, I don't even bother looking at the coolant temp or oil pressure gauges, since they don't really give you any useful info. My plan is to eventually procure a used instrument cluster and install some REAL gauges, but till then I'll just use my nose as a coolant temp gauge and my ears as an oil pressure gauge LOL.

also has a rough idle/shudder, im thinking that it has a bad motor mount. also lots of wiring conections need to be fixed...

previous owners treated it like carp >.<
You could crack open one injector nut at a time with the engine idling, this works like pulling a plug wire off a gasser and will tell if you have a bad injector or a dead hole. What's the idle RPM? If it's much below 650 it'll feel rough, bump it up to 700 and see how that feels.

One of the great things about these trucks is that you can work on most of the wiring without needing a schematic. It can be time consuming but in most cases it's simply a matter of following the same colored wire. NAPA has an assortment of replacement connectors with pigtails, ones I'm personally aware of (through use) are for the headlight switch, voltage regulator, blower motor resistor, windshield wiper motor, and windshield washer pump. Don't count on the replacement connector wire colors to match OEM, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,604 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,680 Posts
MIL is an OBD-II mandated term. Before OBD-II there was no standard parlance. Mostly it was called the Check Engine Light or CEL. The MIL is the lamp mandated to exist under OBD-II and to illuminate when emissions are affected; the lamp is lit when an OBD-II monitor has failed, which in turn happens when the conditions for a trip are met but the conditions for the monitor aren't. Under OBD-II the manufacturer is free to implement a CEL which notifies you of oil changes or whatever, but the MIL is what must be implemented.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,604 Posts
MIL is an OBD-II mandated term. Before OBD-II there was no standard parlance. Mostly it was called the Check Engine Light or CEL. The MIL is the lamp mandated to exist under OBD-II and to illuminate when emissions are affected; the lamp is lit when an OBD-II monitor has failed, which in turn happens when the conditions for a trip are met but the conditions for the monitor aren't. Under OBD-II the manufacturer is free to implement a CEL which notifies you of oil changes or whatever, but the MIL is what must be implemented.
MIL is simple the short term for Malfuction indicator lamp. Weather it be the words "check engine" or a picture of an engine block.

Manufacturers didn't have to conform to a particular connector and definitions in OBD I. OBD II brought a standardized connnector and the same generic definitions across the board. C.A.N. is the present step and there are still different "protocols" from different makers.

Oil changes and such are normaly indicated by a "MAINTANCE REQUIRED" light..different than the MIL/CEL. Dodge has been doing the Maintance light since OBD I.my 1979 Honda civic had three red flags that came up for different maintance requirements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,303 Posts
Dodge has been doing the Maintance light since OBD I.
We have a '98 Ram 3500 at work that's had its "Maintenance required" light on for at least 3 years, and not even the dealership knows how to turn the damn thing off LOL. Good thing it's not an inspection fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,604 Posts
My Inovva 3140 has been able to reset the Dodge lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
thanks for the responses.

worked out brake light: loose e brake pedal needed to adjust cable.

NH2112: thanks for the tip on the antilock brakes, really loose connection on master cylinder.

mil light still on but intermittently comes on and off. still havent bothered with it. but my tach isnt working, oil presure isnt working either.

have a new bigger problem. truck doesnt wanna stay running.
I know it isnt getting diesel but wanna narrow down the possible causes. so please throw ideas at me.

1. has diesel 2. starts after A LOT of cranking but doesnt stay running long. 3. when runs it runs strong and idles well. 4. then just dies. 5. bleeding the fuel filter seems to help.

a friend said it could be either fuel pump or more likely injector pump??...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,729 Posts
How much fuel in the tank? If below 1/4 you could have a broken pickup and it's not getting fuel. Other possibilities include bad lift pump, air intrusing, plugged filter. I bet the IP is fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,729 Posts
Oh, max weight towed with my CCLB 7.3 IDI with Banks Turbo, I don't know what does a triple axle dump truck weigh LOL? I towed one of them out of the middle of the road to a nearby parking lot. On a trailer I've towed 16k or so. Turbo helps immensely, I wouldn't want to tow even 8k without it. I know not a 6.9 but there is little difference between the two in this instance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,303 Posts
thanks for the responses.

worked out brake light: loose e brake pedal needed to adjust cable.
Was that the "BRAKE" light or the "(P) (!)" light? The latter, on the bottom right corner of the cluster, should be the one that comes on due to either loss of hydraulic pressure or the switch on the E-brake pedal ass'y not staying closed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,533 Posts
I know not a 6.9 but there is little difference between the two in this instance.
Your exactly right. The 6.9 & 7.3 IDI were rated only about 5-10 HP different. If I remember right the 351 was rated about the same HP as either diesel. The 460 was the big engine in those years.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top