Check that the 2-wire connector is plugged into the sensor on the side of the master cylinder, this is a common cause for the "REAR ABS" light to be on. The "BRAKE" light tells you there's a fault in the vacuum system, but if you're not feeling a MUCH higher than normal pedal effort - as in, needing both feet to push the pedal as hard as possible and you're still barely slowing down - then it's just a bad vacuum switch or a short.Have a few kinks to work out: rear antilock & brake lights are on. (swapped rear axle off a '95 F350 w/7.3 could that affect something?)
The "ENGINE" light indicated an overheated cooling system, and should also swing the coolant temp gauge needle to the upper end. Possible causes are a bad temp switch, or a short in the circuit. My light has been on for about a year now, eventually I'll get around to finding the cause and taking care of it. Personally, I don't even bother looking at the coolant temp or oil pressure gauges, since they don't really give you any useful info. My plan is to eventually procure a used instrument cluster and install some REAL gauges, but till then I'll just use my nose as a coolant temp gauge and my ears as an oil pressure gauge LOL.also engine light is on, though since it has no airbox on it maf sensor is disconected if it has one?
You could crack open one injector nut at a time with the engine idling, this works like pulling a plug wire off a gasser and will tell if you have a bad injector or a dead hole. What's the idle RPM? If it's much below 650 it'll feel rough, bump it up to 700 and see how that feels.also has a rough idle/shudder, im thinking that it has a bad motor mount. also lots of wiring conections need to be fixed...
previous owners treated it like carp >.<
MIL is simple the short term for Malfuction indicator lamp. Weather it be the words "check engine" or a picture of an engine block.MIL is an OBD-II mandated term. Before OBD-II there was no standard parlance. Mostly it was called the Check Engine Light or CEL. The MIL is the lamp mandated to exist under OBD-II and to illuminate when emissions are affected; the lamp is lit when an OBD-II monitor has failed, which in turn happens when the conditions for a trip are met but the conditions for the monitor aren't. Under OBD-II the manufacturer is free to implement a CEL which notifies you of oil changes or whatever, but the MIL is what must be implemented.
We have a '98 Ram 3500 at work that's had its "Maintenance required" light on for at least 3 years, and not even the dealership knows how to turn the damn thing off LOL. Good thing it's not an inspection fail.Dodge has been doing the Maintance light since OBD I.
Was that the "BRAKE" light or the "(P) (!)" light? The latter, on the bottom right corner of the cluster, should be the one that comes on due to either loss of hydraulic pressure or the switch on the E-brake pedal ass'y not staying closed.thanks for the responses.
worked out brake light: loose e brake pedal needed to adjust cable.
Your exactly right. The 6.9 & 7.3 IDI were rated only about 5-10 HP different. If I remember right the 351 was rated about the same HP as either diesel. The 460 was the big engine in those years.I know not a 6.9 but there is little difference between the two in this instance.