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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That is right, but step 7 needs improvement.

It should say, "Watch for a large air bubble. It will occur around the 1.5 gallon mark. Shut the engine off when it appears." The air bubble is important, not that you reached 1.5 gallons.
So thats why its important that the hose is clear
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
That is right, but step 7 needs improvement.

It should say, "Watch for a large air bubble. It will occur around the 1.5 gallon mark. Shut the engine off when it appears." The air bubble is important, not that you reached 1.5 gallons.
And after the air bubble, will there be straight fluid coming out or will it just be air because no more fluid is coming? Obviously i will kill the engine once the air bubble comes, i was just curious as to what is behind the air bubble.
 

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I used the Valvoline ATF in the maroon jugs for quite awhile. My first time was a full flush procedure as per Mark’s DIY. I then switched to 15,000 mile pan drain/fill as per RT.

I switched over to Mobil-ATF about a year back and I found it “felt a bit better”. Yes, not a quantifiable description but it is a thicker viscosity than the Valvoline and more similar to the original Motorcraft.

But the Valvoline ATF is much cheaper and has met with many positive reviews and millions of miles in the 4R100.
 

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And after the air bubble, will there be straight fluid coming out or will it just be air because no more fluid is coming? Obviously i will kill the engine once the air bubble comes, i was just curious as to what is behind the air bubble.
The air bubble shows that the pump has sucked air out of the pan because it's nearly empty. It can suck fluid again, but there isn't much left in the pan so it is important to shut the engine off before damage can occur to the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I used the Valvoline ATF in the maroon jugs for quite awhile. My first time was a full flush procedure as per Mark’s DIY. I then switched to 15,000 mile pan drain/fill as per RT.

I switched over to Mobil-ATF about a year back and I found it “felt a bit better”. Yes, not a quantifiable description but it is a thicker viscosity than the Valvoline and more similar to the original Motorcraft.

But the Valvoline ATF is much cheaper and has met with many positive reviews and millions of miles in the 4R100.
You are talking about the Valvoline Max Life Synthetic right, not the dino?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The air bubble shows that the pump has sucked air out of the pan because it's nearly empty. It can suck fluid again, but there isn't much left in the pan so it is important to shut the engine off before damage can occur to the pump.
10-4 Mark, thanks buddy. And are we talking a large air bubble, like 2-3 inches long in the tubing?
 

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You are talking about the Valvoline Max Life Synthetic right, not the dino?
Yes Sir, Max-Life Synthetic ATF and M1 Multi-Vehicle ATF (both full synthetic).
 

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I read good things about the max life synthetic, but then i read all the no no’s about using a multi-vehicle fluid
Most aftermarket fluids will be rated, “Multi-Vehicle”. I think what makes a quality lubricant is the base stock of oil and the additive package and both Valvoline and Mobil have proven track records, although I put M1 a bit higher up the ladder. There are a couple boutique ATFs with proven quality such as Amsoil and Royal Purple but they are usually very high dollar and for our application in a 4R100, the Valvoline and M1 meet the requirements.

The other consideration is viscosity. The Valvoline is a lighter viscosity than the fluid which the 4R100 was designed with. Does that make a difference good or bad? I don’t know.

The other thing you will read on multiple forums is, “I just changed my ATF to ‘xxxx’ brand and it operates so much better”.
What is seldom considered is that they are often replacing very old ATF that has depleted its additive packet and is oxidized and carrying contaminants so just about any new ATF fill is going to provide an improved performance initially. The advantage to this TDS forum is its full of gents with long histories servicing their 7.3 and know which lubricants have stood the test of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Most aftermarket fluids will be rated, “Multi-Vehicle”. I think what makes a quality lubricant is the base stock of oil and the additive package and both Valvoline and Mobil have proven track records, although I put M1 a bit higher up the ladder. There are a couple boutique ATFs with proven quality such as Amsoil and Royal Purple but they are usually very high dollar and for our application in a 4R100, the Valvoline and M1 meet the requirements.

The other consideration is viscosity. The Valvoline is a lighter viscosity than the fluid which the 4R100 was designed with. Does that make a difference good or bad? I don’t know.

The other thing you will read on multiple forums is, “I just changed my ATF to ‘xxxx’ brand and it operates so much better”.
What is seldom considered is that they are often replacing very old ATF that has depleted its additive packet and is oxidized and carrying contaminants so just about any new ATF fill is going to provide an improved performance initially. The advantage to this TDS forum is its full of gents with long histories servicing their 7.3 and know which lubricants have stood the test of time.
I hear that bud, I love this forum. I am brand new to diesels and i love his truck, so I am stoked to be learning what i have on here so far. BTW, I found NAPA brand conventional Dexron III/Mercon in a 5 gallon bucket for 52 bucks so I am gona run that til my next change interval, then I am gona run the Max Life synthetic, cuz I dont know if the Napa brand has the additive package in it. Do any of you have any experience with the Napa brand dex/merc fluid?
 

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They will all have various additive packages and the chemistry is always a proprietary secret. NAPA ATF will be produced by a major lubricant supplier.
The downside to Conventional (Dino) lubricants is that they require more frequent change intervals and this won’t affect your plan.
The other issue is they do not quite perform as well in temperature extremes but they make up for this with VII (Viscosity Index Improvers) which are part of their unique add package.

I made a chart a couple of years ago comparing various ATFs but I am certain I neglected the NAPA products. I will pull up some info and post later.

I suggest checking in here prior to spending money because this forum has saved me a bundle over the years. The mindset here is don’t just throw money after parts with the hopes one might fix an issue.
 
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OK, so this is interesting but the NAPA website indicates their Dex/Merc product is primarily a GM product.
It does not show any Ford models on the list.
There probably would not be a problem using this but my 2¢ opinion is to use a product that clearly lists Ford compatibility.

 

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So here is a great link:


Off hand, I see no reason this would not perform well in the 4R100.
It is a thicker viscosity than Fords current recommendation but meets the original Mercon specs at the time the 4R100 was designed.

I would wait for additional opinions before changing to this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So here is a great link:


Off hand, I see no reason this would not perform well in the 4R100.
It is a thicker viscosity than Fords current recommendation but meets the original Mercon specs at the time the 4R100 was designed.

I would wait for additional opinions before changing to this.
Well thanks a bunch for the info buddy. If anyone has any further info on the NAPA Dex/Merc ATF, i am all ears. I was going to do the flush in the morning, so bring them on. If I have to return the Napa ATF and grab some Max Life Synthetic from Walmart, then ill do it. Thanks in advance
 

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OK, so this is interesting but the NAPA website indicates their Dex/Merc product is primarily a GM product.
It does not show any Ford models on the list.
There probably would not be a problem using this but my 2¢ opinion is to use a product that clearly lists Ford compatibility.

There was actually ONE Ford model listed.
FordE350 1 Ton Econoline Club Wagon1999 -1999
I believe that vehicle used a 4R100, and likely all years. So them listing just that one model and year is strange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ok guys i returned the Napa Dex/Merc just to be safe, and I picked up 5 gallon jugs of the Valvoline Max Life Synthetic ATF. I will be doin the flush later today. Thanks for all the great input
 

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Another question for you guys, is there a separate procedure for the transfer case?
There is a separate procedure.

Remove the fill plug, then remove the drain plug. Always remove them in this order. When the fluid stops draining, replace the drain plug and fill the transfer case until fluid starts to run out of the fill plug. Then replace the fill plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
There is a separate procedure.

Remove the fill plug, then remove the drain plug. Always remove them in this order. When the fluid stops draining, replace the drain plug and fill the transfer case until fluid starts to run out of the fill plug. Then replace the fill plug.
Thanks Mark. Should this be done every time the tranny fluid is changed? I assume it takes the same ATF as the tranny internals
 
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