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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ANYONE? Miss - No Power - Major Vibration ANYONE?

In December of 2018 I had an original injector go out. It is stock and has 450,000 miles on it.
I had all 8 injectors replaced with rebuilt ones. (plus glow plugs, under valve cover gaskets, GPR, and had the oil cooler rebuilt because of a leak.)
The truck ran fine until the TRS transmission range sensor went bad – replaced it and truck ran fine until a few months ago. The CEL would randomly come on – until I shut it off – and restarted – and CEL stayed off for several runs – then came back on – and repeat above.
Then one day I drove 100 miles – shut it off for 30 minutes – and it would not start – (tach needle moved) It was almost 2 quarts low on oil and a little low on antifreeze. Checked both - - and no coolant in oil – and no oil in coolant… (added oil & antifreeze)
After letting it sit for an hour – it fired right up. On the way home the CEL came on and a “SERIOUS” vibration started – but only when accelerating.
(I thought U-joint or etc…)
Took it to shop last week and found out that 1 of the rebuilt injectors on passenger side had a bad oil o-ring – (when the motor was cold it would start and run until shut off – then – when still warm – no start until it cooled off.) (Found coolant leak = fixed - and they rebuilt oil cooler... again... because it was leaking again = no charge...)
They found 2 bad injectors on passenger side and another injector bad on drivers side – changed 3 injectors total. (out of warranty. #*#&…) they also changed all 8 of the cups.
However – even with all 8 injectors passing contribution test at the shop –

BTW – it has a new fuel pump. Fuel pressure is good.

As of right now – it idles with a slight “miss” but it’s more like a partially plugged injector – and the “SERIOUS” vibration is apparently coming from the motor and is still there when accelerating and motor has absolutely no power – acts like missing – but more like “slightly out of time” IDM signals to the injectors ????
Guys at shop say possibly a bad compression ring / bent rod – or push rod / valve / etc.??? They are not sure?????
They don’t have a way to test compression.
Would a bad IDM cause this? Or bad CPS? Or a clogged EBP tube and sensor – I believe the tube and sensor have nothing to do with the EBPV – my EBPV is disabled – but I have never cleaned / replaced the EBP tube or sensor…

Below is a video of what it is doing now. (Watch the entire video - at the end it puffs smoke at high RPM???)

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update…

I changed the CPS (old one was Oriley Auto – worked for several years – I know – I know – OEM… the new one is also oriley’s… I know, I know…) But….
It runs better with the new Oriley CPS – but still has miss and some vibration…
BUT – it is better than before??????

The ICP was replaced a few months ago (also Oriley… I know, I know – but now there is OIL in the plug connector – again…
BUT – I unplugged the ICP and started the truck – jerky idle – straightened out – but when I put it in gear it died instantly…
I plugged the ICP back in - and it will idle and take throttle – in gear – with brakes applied – but still has the “miss”.

Cant get the EBP tube to unscrew from the exhaust manifold to check / clean / or replace it – soaking it with WD40 and ETC. until I can get the threaded end to “spin” on the tube…)

Re cleaned the FPR screen – a little dirty – but not much change after cleaning…

Fuel pressure at idle with a tire pressure gage = 30 PSI.

Below are a couple of pics of the hood and fire wall with “soot / oil – where there wasn’t any before this issue…
When the issue started – I noticed the “exhaust / or – oil” on the hood and firewall near the turbo.
Maybe a plugged catalytic converter is causing some back pressure at the turbo???
Took off the turbo hoses and only saw a few drops of oil on the blades…
But when revving up the motor – in neutral – like the video shows - it sounds like there is “back pressure” at the turbo???

I just can’t believe that a new CPS would make the difference it did with a little better power and less vibration - if it is a mechanical issue (rings / rod / valve / etc.)
Or – maybe – the other 7 cylinders “came alive” better???

I know, I know – I need a compression check………………………….

Could the IDM or the Computer possibly be the culprit?
 

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I had a similar issue and it was fuel pressure regulator. The spring got weak so I replaced it and fuel pump because it was also original with over 300,000 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Texkenusmc -

Are you talking about the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) at the fuel bowl with the spring -

(Like this --- ---


or -
the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) on the back of the HPOP -


(Like this --- ---



I'm guessing you are referring to the FPR at the filter housing that some guys modify with a BB...?????


The side of my fuel bowl looks a little different than the one in the video - I'll look at it again and take a picture of mine...



Thanx!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
UPDATE...

I did the "BB" mod on my FPR on the filter bowl = No Difference.

I swapped the IDM with my other truck = No Difference.

I have a new CPS (black with purple O-Ring) on order and a new Motorcraft ICP from Diesel O-Rings.

I don't believe I have a compression problem (valve / ring / push rod) - unless its a bent piston rod because I
placed the oil filler cap upside down over filler hole - revved the motor to 2500 RPM - cap did not move.

The tin nut on my IPR is tight - and from what I understand - usually when the IPR is bad - the motor won't fire or run at all - or does major hiccupping / etc.

Today I'll try unplugging each UVCH - 1 at a time and see if I can find out if it is a particular cylinder "missing".

Mine starts fairly good - and runs - has a "miss" and no power / and the vibration from the "miss".


BTW -

I just remembered that my son gave me a SCT Flash "tuner / scanner" a while back....
I'll hook it up today and see what I can find out with the minimal diagnostics it has to offer...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
UPDATE-


After unplugging the UVC harnesses - 1 at a time - I am certain the problem is on the passenger bank - one of the back 2 cylinders - I believe it is the second to the back (#5)


I ordered and installed Motorcraft (OEM) - CPS and ICP.

The miss is much better - the vibration is minimal. I now think this motor has had this issue for some time as it now runs much closer to what it had felt like for the past 80,000 miles or so - before this latest major issue.

I need to do a compression check - but first I'm going to OHM the injector wires from the IDM harness pins to the injectors and see if possibly the entire issue might be a bad wire in the harness. If it passes the OHM test - then I'll do a compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE-

The 8 GP's and both UVCG were changed 18 months ago when the 8 injectors were replaced.

Rechecked Fuel Pressure with 50 psi tire gauge at idle - got it to seal - buried the gauge - so I must have at least 60 PSI fuel pressure at idle.
However -
I checked the resistance from the IDM connector to all 8 cylinders.
All good -except for #7 - no resistance. (continuity is good from IDM connector - to - motor harness plug... must be somewhere from UVCG to injector)

Been storming here - I started removing the VC - but got rained out.

I'll try to find out if its the UVCG connector / or the harness inside / or the injector itself - so I know what's going on and what to order...
 

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Once you get under there, check the solenoid resistance as it could be just a bad solenoid. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
10-4 Patrick
Gotta look up what the resistance should be for just the injector solenoid - ? same a the line? 2.8 - to - 3.6 ??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just read that if an injector is "mechanically" bad - there will be NO CEL light-
But if it is an electrical problem with the injector - the CEL will light - (and possibly the IDM will shut down that bank...?)

Is this true?

I do not have a CEL - or any codes - - - is the injector incurring a mechanical (or o-ring) failure???
Because when I unplug the rear passenger (cylinders #5 & #7) there is very little difference in idle - but all of the other 3 make a noticeable difference

Well 1 code - P1111 - but it won't clear...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
NEW UPDATE -

Got the passenger side VC off... (what do you guys use to remove the back bolt? - It was a ***** for me - I don't have a flex extension...^%$(*&^#[email protected])

Any way-

I think the shop might have FU&KED me because...
After I removed the passenger side VC - I saw that the GP wire on #7 insulation was "scraped back" in 2 places & it gave a + continuity for a short to the oil that would "accumulate / pass by" it ...)

Then I OHMED the UVCH at the outer VC connection - on injector #7 - and NO RESISTANCE...
But the inner harness shows good continuity between the Outer UVCH plug - and the injector plug.....
Then I took off the solenoid - and there was a layer of oil between the solenoid - and - the injector actuator...

That has to be the "short" in the injector function / OHM reading...............

So... Either the "rebuilt" injector had a bad seal at the solenoid - or...................

They didn't even change that injector ------ a year and a half ago... and it's an original??????

The solenoids on cylinders 1, 3, and 5 have YELLOW solenoid covers with a AA marked on them...

BUT - the #7 solenoid Injector is a dark Brown / Black color and looks different - with a A00 #

What color are the original FORD injector Solenoids??????????????

Either way - the shop will say " the injector was bad when it came to us".......

And I could ask if they did an OHM check - after starting it - and it ran like **** - but they simply told me that "it didn't have any power".......

The dumb ass - money hungry - FUC$TARDS.....

Either...
I (they) got a badly sealed solenoid - or - they never changed it in the first place 18 months ago..............................

I MO B GETTIN EVEN with someone..........

I'll contact Rosewood and see if they can hook me up with an injector.......

Any thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated - from you experienced guys here on these forums!!!!!!!!!

AudioWriter....
 

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If you ohm the solenoid directly at it's connection port, you should get around 3 ohms. Similarly if you connect the UVCH to it and ohm it at either the UVCH connector to the VC or at the VC with the UVCH connected, you should get the same. You would be measuring from the center pin to the appropriate immediately adjacent inner pin. The outermost pins are for the glowplugs and you should not get any continuity with the immediate adjacent inner pin. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I tried that and it had no reading - until I took it apart - wiped the oil off - and with the solenoid off = then and only then did it read 3.3 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will do a compression check -and if all is good...

Then, as soon as I get a solenoid (and a new UVCG) in from order - I'll see if a new solenoid gets an ohm reading attached to the injector and it runs better -

If all is good I'll go for putting the VC back on.

(Unless I need to order an injector.)

I will call Rosewood and see what they suggest. It looks and seems like the injectors on 1, 3, and 5 are good - but I know it is better to get a matching set.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did some more testing - before ordering any parts - (except I ordered the adapter and hose to do a compression test...)
(I currently have a compression test gauge and hose with the "rubber" cone "tip" - which is to place into a spark plug hole on a gas job - but it is too large in diameter to get into the glow plug hole because of the rocker arm...)
(Going to check today to see if "perhaps" the fine threads on my rubber tip hose connection """might""" by chance - match the threads of the GP...???)

If my compression is good...
What UVCG do you guys recommend?
The OEM's don't come with the harnesses - and the current harness might be part of my issue.
But it looks like the shop used Dorman's because the VCG and the Harnesses are 1 piece - direct connected = no plug.

I guess I should buy the Motorcraft VCG and the 2 harnesses ----- damn - another $200.00 (plus a solenoid - if not an injector...)
 

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I prefer the Motorcraft parts, but in the past I have used the 1-piece Dorman out of necessity with no issues. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanx Patrick!

My gas job - flex hose - compression gauge has the same threads as the GP - but it has a 9/16 hex and wont fit into the GP hole -
I'm getting the proper flex hose delivered Monday.
I also have to change out the gauge - mine only goes to 300 PSI
I have a couple extra oil filled gauges - but they go to 3000 PSI - the increments are at 500 PSI - hoping I can get a good enough reading - or else I'll have to get a 400 - to - 500 PSI gauge...

It's always something....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
UPDATE - with a question....

I ordered a 7.3 GP threaded end - compression gauge testing "hose".
I thought by the pic (no phone number or e-mail to confirm...) that the ends were threaded to the hose where I could "adapt" their hose - to my gauge.... NOPE. (Mightyvac brand...)

My question...
The engine had NOT been run in several days when I first pulled the VC and GP on cylinder #7.
I tried to make sure there was no excess oil going to run down into the GP hole. (the motor has not been cranked since)
When I removed the GP on cylinder #7 - it was fairly covered in oil...

I have taken the GP out - and re-inserted - it in cylinder #7 several times - as I try to get the correct threaded compression test "adapter" to work - (I put the GP back in and then place the VC back on with no bolts - to keep crap from getting down in there as I acquire the right parts - to finally do a compression test - before moving on... to trying a new injector / or injector solenoid...)

Anyway...
Every time I insert - and then remove the GP - it is always covered in oil - about half way up the end.

I didn't think very much (if any) oil "slipped" down in there upon the first (or residual) removals of the GP.

There is oil - apparently - "sitting" on top of the piston - but if it's from a bad oil ring - wouldn't it seep back down while sitting for days on end??? (Unless I have a bad head - or head gasket... :(

I believe I will be able to do a proper compression test in a couple of days. (Proper adapter / hose and gauge)

Oriley "says" they have the correct "adapter"for rent ($50.00) n- but if it wont work - and I take it back and say - "It wouldn't work" -
They will say "Yea right". (and another $50.00 wasted with no results.)

Any thoughts as I resume to conduct a compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
UPDATE...

The Good - the Bad -and the Ugly
After not finding an auto parts store with a compression gauge kit with the correct thread adapter for the GP to do a compression check...
I found 2 local shops with correct thread compression testers - but my truck is tore apart in my shop - and neither shop will rent me the gauge...

The Good=
I finally ended up cutting the mityvac hose off at the threaded nut and welding a 1/8 in piece of NPT tubing with a nut welded to the tube for a wrench - and hooking my gauge to it. (Ha Ha Ha ya bastid shops and mityvac!)
(attached pic below...)

The Bad=
Cylinder #5 has 350 PSI

The Ugly=
Cylinder #7 has only 150 PSI

I must have bad rings. (maybe valves???)

Might be a head gasket because there is loud - timed like a single cylinder - "Pssst" sound when the truck is running - I thought it was the exhaust doughnut connection because it has always had this "leak" sound - but the truck has always seemed like it never had the power it should for the past 300,000 miles I have drove it.

I don't think that with almost 400,000 miles - it would be worth re-ringing and head jobbing it because the underneath of the truck is rusted to where the motor has already out lived the frame and body.

I'll check into the head gasket possibility - but even if that potentially could be the problem - without doing the other head - and while that far in - re-ringing - I'll just have a spare motor.

I dunno....

Any thoughts?
 

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