[1997VAstroker]

Is the DU-87 cam position sensor the one that everyone keeps as a spare in the glovebox? I have not had any problems after 14 years, but I feel I am borrowed time. Also after my Mercedes ML leaving me at work one afternoon because of the Crank Position Sensor giving out I feel the Mercedes and both of my trucks will have spares in the glovebox.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

I can't remember which one I have, but I think it's the gray F7TZ-12K073-B. I believe the DU-87 is the dark blue F4TZ-12K073-C. I have the gray being used on engine serial numbers above #375548 (Mid-96 I think). Cheers!

 

[1997VAstroker]

I know why I asked about the DU-87. I have my truck as a 96 on Advance Auto's site because I got tired of having the parts for the light duty 97 F-250 come up on my exact fit searches.
I will look up 97 and see what comes up. Is there that much of a difference between the years?

EDIT: When I switched my year to 97 the DU-87 went away on advances site. No motorcrafts are available from them for the 97's. Just my luck I have a couple of 10 buck speedprerks to use up.

 

[bugman]

Years ago there were two different CPS's for the 96 model year of truck, a early version and a late one.

Supposedly the only difference were the contact materials and you could possibly have problems swapping the two around but owners swapped them around and I never did hear of any problems

It was also advisable to pick up a spare CPS from the International dealer since they were around 1/2 price of what Ford charged at the time. I got one for my truck using the engine serial number which was before the switch so I have the old one.
Here are the part numbers for Ford and International, I believe that they are pretty much the same now but I haven't checked in years.

Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS)
(Ford) F6TZ-12K073-A 94-96 (old)
(Ford) F7TZ-12K073-A 97 (old)
(Ford) F4TZ-12K073-C 94-96 new revised one black in color
(Ford) F7TZ-12K073-B 97-03 new revised one
(International) 1821720C99 (below engine 375548)
(International) 1825899C93 (above engine 375548)

 

[1997VAstroker]

Thanks guys!
I just ran the F7TZ-12K073-B on a search on Advance's site and only brought up a drivewrorks one, I have used driveworks sensors before on other vehicles, but I believe I will be searching elsewhere for the Motorcraft. I also ran the International 1825899C93 and it came up with the Driveworks and A badly rated BWD.
Update: Found these so far for the F7TZ-12K073-B I searched for the cheapest Genuine Motorcraft ones I could find.
$23.65 Ebay, Ford dealer in S. Carolina
$24.87 Diesel O-rings site.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

The CPS is about $19 from places like AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake (formerly Tousley). DieselOrings is about $25 I think. Here (7.3L Cam Position Sensor .pdf (riffraffdiesel.com)) is an article on CPS differences from RiffRaff where you might consider the DU-87 (F4TZ-12K073-C). Cheers!

 

[1997VAstroker]

Thank you Patrick!
That article allowed me to understand what all I had been reading about. At this point I am going to go with the DU-87. I am sure both my trucks have the B in them, I am going to look this weekend. This may explain some of the rough idle I have had for years with them.

 

[Steve83]

Amazon has MCs for $23ea +tax.

B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H1OFZM

C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H1IRTM

 

[1997VAstroker]

Thanks Steve. I just ordered Two DU-87's for 39.47 total shipped trough Advance Auto. 25% off and a 10 buck speedperk plus free shipping. Hopefully they will spend their eternity in my gloveboxes!

 

[Patrick Feeley]

If the CPSs are original on your trucks, my advice is to use only a "good quality" 6-point 10mm socket on the bolt. For whatever reason they can problematic to get off. Stories of rounded-off bolt heads (from 12-point sockets) and broken/shattered sockets abound. I actually went out and loosened the bolt on mine just to make sure that I could get it off if needed on the side of the road. Cheers!

 

[1997VAstroker]

Patrick, I was actually thinking of pulling out the bolts on both my trucks on the lift at my parents house and putting anti seize on the treads. For the same reason you are saying. I know that one has been in for at least 14 years now and the other who knows (I have only owned the truck for 2.5 years). I am however worried that if I start to bump anything around that with my luck on the way home I will need that sensor in the glovebox! I believe it is worth the chance though. If I ever get back to racing SCCA again due to this pandemic the last thing I want is a loaded trailer sitting behind a truck that will not start because of a bad sensor that can not be changed because of a frozen bolt! Starting this weekend I am going to spray the bolts down with Kroil, to get them started to come out.

 

[Steve83]

I wouldn't use anti-seize lube - it's actually oily, and can allow the bolts to back out as you drive. It's only for hot locations. I'd use blue threadlocker, which is also an effective anti-seize agent.

 

[1997VAstroker]

Both trucks have the grey one and both bolts loosened easily! I found the best tool was my 10mm deep 6pt 1/4 inch drive and a 120tooth 1/4 inch ratchet. Hopefully now that I have done this the new ones will be happy in the glovebox with the spare light bulbs and fuses.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Always a good feeling when you can get the bolt(s) loose! Cheers!