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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem, my 2008 F250 has been sat a while, I went to start it the other day and it will not crank.

I have checked the batteries and fully charged both of them to 100%
When I turn the ignition key I hear a relay click on the passenger side fuse box
I have tried to start it in P and Neutral with the ebrake on.

Nothing, I have checked all the fuses and they seem okay, I cant check to see if I hear the relay under the hood as I am on my own.

The truck does everything inside it should,, radio out info display out when key turned to start etc.

Ok I checked the error codes

P0546 Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1

P2033 Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2

P242D Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 3

P0405 Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Sensor A Circuit Low

P1335 EGR Position Sensor Max Stop Performance

P2455 Diesel Particular Filter Sensor A Circuit High

I tried to but the codes would not clear.

Stuck out on a limb here, any help would be very very much appreciated,, thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I saw a post once that mentioned on the right hand battery there is a 2" round connector and to remove it and connect the thing to the + of the battery to prove it would crank? I dont understand what the connector looks like and dont see anything like it on my truck
 

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that connector is green and yellow if I recall correctly.. it leads directly to the relay that controls the starter solenoid...

your faults are all emissions related, and speak of some sort of failure to report... and that will make the truck lock out with a quickness... so...

you 'can' jump the starter using that connector... but be careful... trans in neutral. parking brake set. wheels chocked. ignition on. use a wire to jump it directly to the battery, and the starter will turn and the truck should fire. this procedure circumvents the 'lock out' the PCM dictates when those sensors don't report during the first half second of the key being turned.

now if your sensors DO check out when they get a good shot of juice, the problem is solved.. if they DON'T, your message center will flash "pull over safely" and you're locked out again... for an hour...
 

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oh... the connector is a little tapered cylinder kinda white/translucent... it's pretty much just inside the battery on the engine side, a little it toward the back... it's the only connector in there like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I found it, thanks guys, I hooked up a good guage wire from the + on the battery to the male end of the (looks like a fuse holder) plug and the engine did not crank
Mine was black Drewactual :)


any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So its still not cranking, I plan to run a thick gauge cable from the starter solenoid to the battery to see if i can even get it to just crank?
 

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I've never seen one black... I worry you're not using the right one..

After thinking about your issue, I'd pull the pcm harness and make certain its clean and well seated on reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've never seen one black... I worry you're not using the right one..

After thinking about your issue, I'd pull the pcm harness and make certain its clean and well seated on reinstall.
Thanks for your input, where is the PCM harness located? if yuo can give me a clue :)

Here is a picture of what I disconnected and put the male to + on the battery

I REALLLY do appreciate you helping me here, Thank you

I have attached a picture of the part I disconnected below

IMG_7299.jpg
 

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yup... that's the one! Only one like it in the engine bay that I know of...

the PCM is on the firewall behind the air box... has levers that lock the harness to the pins..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yup... that's the one! Only one like it in the engine bay that I know of...

the PCM is on the firewall behind the air box... has levers that lock the harness to the pins..
Okay, umbrella in hand along with contact cleanser and toothbrush, PCM here I come
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well all pins looked clean but I cleansed them some more on both the PCM and the connectors, I didn't see any broken wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well I put truck in Neutral, brake on, ignition on, I ran a good size cable from the + on the battery to the large connector on the starter, nothing,, the starter didnt make any nose or crank, I did expect a clunk from the solenoid?

Maybe I am doing something wrong?
 

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the only thing you could be doing wrong is hitting the juice to the wrong wire, once you split the connection...

this is a mighty curious thing you're running into... it certainly sounds electric... check your grounds carefully... make a ground, if you have to, by directly attaching a wire from the negative post(s) to the frame or engine...
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
the only thing you could be doing wrong is hitting the juice to the wrong wire, once you split the connection...

this is a mighty curious thing you're running into... it certainly sounds electric... check your grounds carefully... make a ground, if you have to, by directly attaching a wire from the negative post(s) to the frame or engine...
Hi there Drew, what I did was to run a jumper cable to the large nut on the starter solenoid just to prove a point that the engine would crank, I did not do anything or connect anything to the smaller terminal on the solenoid, should I have? i am guessing thats a signal wire, I dont know if it should have voltage to it or not?

What I am going to do now is to put my volt meter to the large post and small post on the solenoid and see if I even have any voltage going there? I will have to wait for my wife to come home so she can turn the key while I check my meter?

I thought by me connecting a cable from the + on the battery to the large connector on the solenoid that it would turn over? or does some one need to be turning the key like as in starting it?

A little frustrated now?

So I checked the voltage at that black fuseholder type plug and so it has 13V on it with a lot of current, with the truck in N or P and it connected to the + it has no effect, it draws several amps when connected I do know that and thats with me turning the key to start or not, it makes no difference I have also grounded the engine and chassis

Thanks for your input
Regards
Martyn
 

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Here is the actual instructions:

.
EGT 13, when it's open circuit, the sensor is bad, unplugged, not installed in your delete kit, what have you causes the truck to enter the following strategy:

PCM Power output limited.
A "Pull Over Safely and Shut Vehicle Off" message may display in your instrument cluster.
A 1-hour no-crank condition.
If you suspect this is your issue, and you're stranded, try the following.

Vehicle in PARK
Parking brake SET
Key in the ON position
Open hood
Near the RH battery, there is a single wire disconnect. It is attached to the battery box. Remove it from the battery box and disconnect it.
Touch the end headed towards the starter to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery.
The truck should start. Reconnect the wire, close the hood, and check for codes. You will likely have a code for EGT-13 open circuit, over temp, out of range.

DISCLAIMER: USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS INDEED EXPERIENCING AN OVER TEMPERATURE CONDITION THERE IS RISK OF VEHICLE DAMAGE AND POSSIBLE FIRE OR TOTAL LOSS OF VEHICLE. THE AUTHOR OF THIS POST ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE INFORMATION PROVIDED WITHIN. USE THE AFOREMENTIONED INFORMATION PROVIDED AT YOUR OWN RISK TO SELF, VEHICLE, AND PROPERTY.

Hope this is of some help to folks on here. I have seen two or three posts in the last 3 or 4 days regarding this, and helped a stranded member out over the phone with this same problem.
 

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With those errors and the strange starter thing, I don't think this is your issue... You've got something strange going on.. have you load tested your batteries?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ignoring the Errors for now Drew I want to hear the truck crank over, running direct power direct to the terminals and checking the high current voltage is at the starter confirms a shorted out starter, I will pick one up later today they are cheap enough at my salvage yard,, going to be a bit of a pain to get off in the rain but its got to be done, then that hopefully is problem 1 sorted out I can then move on to each error code one by one but I am feeling confident right now the issue of it not cranking is the stater motor, I will hopefully be able to confirm this tomorrow if I can move those darn bolts, :)
 

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I sure hope that's it, man...

You stated the truck hasn't ran in a good while, and what you may find is that running it a bit may clear much of the other stuff up. These things run a built in test the first half second the key is turned, and it pings critical sensors to make sure they report... If they don't they employ a strategy to compensate, even if that strategy is simply to illuminate a CEL.

Hopefully, it turns over for you and the PCM gets a good clean assessment of whats going on, and it clears up. Voltages and voltage drops do mighty strange things to PCM's.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
oh both batteries were flat for 4 months i would say, I have a VXDIAG VCX NANO tool coming with laptop which may help? i have it for a mustang I am working on but see no reason it could not be used on this truck either
Batteries are holding at 100% so thats good, I am away for the weekend so have a friend fitting a replacement starter when I am away and will let you know Monday if it runs,, hopefully so and then the errors may clear up if not I will tackle them one at a time
EGR valve i am familiar with but this truck has an EGR deleted just not taken out of the ecu so it will have the CEL on
ok have a super weekend I am outta here until Monday,, thanks for the help
 

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Just so you know, the pcm looks for a report from the egr in that built in test, unless it's programmed out... So... No reporty, no cranky... That simple.

The starter jump we've discussed defeats this, though. This is why I'm confused why the starter didn't kick over, or at least the solenoid click... You may wanna check relays before you tear into the starter replacement.
 
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