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Discussion Starter #21
Just so you know, the pcm looks for a report from the egr in that built in test, unless it's programmed out... So... No reporty, no cranky... That simple.

The starter jump we've discussed defeats this, though. This is why I'm confused why the starter didn't kick over, or at least the solenoid click... You may wanna check relays before you tear into the starter replacement.
What makes me believe its the starter is when I did a direct feed from a good battery to the solenoid it did nothing but get the wire hot and it was a good thick gauge wire and to me that indicates a short it drew so many amps to get the wire that thick that warm so to me that's a good idea of a shorted out starter, i had good voltage to the + terminal on the starter, the relays I went to the local autozone to get replacements and they are not listed, I could swap one over if the replacement starter doesn't work, like I mentioned I am away all weekend but back Monday and have a friend swapping over the starter for me.

Re the EGR, this was professionally done a while ago so I assume the PCM has been reprogrammed as it was running fine until I parked it up and left it.

For now my aim it to get it to at least crank, then plan to tackle the other reported issues.

Drew you certainly are very knowledgeable and your helping me out continually appreciated thank you and have a good weekend i will let you know if it at least cranks hopefully Monday
 

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Discussion Starter #22
ok back from vacation, replacement starter fitted and turned the key, nothing, did the wire in the cylindrical cartridge and hey presto it cranked right up and started beautiful check engine lamp went out and so could it now be a relay?
I have a wrench in the bottom display too that I never had and my reader will not say what it could be?
Nice to hear the truck running again :)
 

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That wrench is reduced power mode... Aka limp home mode..

You need to get a scan on that thing. I'm betting on EGT13. :)

It's most likely one of four emissions related sensors that is bad or that is fouled. If you turn it off and it starts again, via the key, I'll be surprised. Of course, if it's just fouled it may clear itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Oh... Doubtful it's a relay.
I read the codes and cleared them and the truck started right up by the key,, this happened only the once.

I did a code read and this is what it is throwing back at me

Ok I checked the error codes

P0546 Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1

P2033 Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2

P242D Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 3

P0405 Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Sensor A Circuit Low

P1335 EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance

P2455 Diesel Particular Filter Sensor A Circuit High

I tried to but the codes would not clear.

Now the truck will not start unless I jump it again

Keen to know your thoughts on this bunch,, thanks Drew
 

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Do you still have the tuner that deleted (via pcm programming) the dpf and egr?

Every one of those codes... That's what it's looking for. The very thing needed to.be scripted out for the truck to run without the egr or dpf...

Use your tuner, or, get a delete tuner and use it, your issues will likely disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Do you still have the tuner that deleted (via pcm programming) the dpf and egr?

Every one of those codes... That's what it's looking for. The very thing needed to.be scripted out for the truck to run without the egr or dpf...

Use your tuner, or, get a delete tuner and use it, your issues will likely disappear.
My code reader will not do it, Do you recommend a devise that I can use to do the EGR delete or DPF?
 

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I'm a fan of the now defunct H&S minimax.. they call them 'race' tuners, right before they folded... You can still find them around, especially if you look around Durham nc, :) .... You gotta have a race tuner to delete- if you find one they're in the $1500 range... Spartan has a nice one, and my close second choice.. again, $1500ish... SCT has one, I think it's called the dpf-r that will do the trick, and for around $500 or so, but has no monitor.. there are some others, but none as confident and nowhere near as safe as the ones mentioned..
 

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Oh... And once you're properly deleted, be easy on the skinny pedal until you're used to it... It will run like a raped ape... Nothing can prepare you for what you're about to experience in the car world- it is astounding what a tune and delete does for these things..

I came from gasser building... I used diesels to get me from here to there and never much thought about them... A very good and still safe tune on a gasser may gain you 10-12%, and that is just fuel trim and spark advance, basically. I tuned my 6.4 and went from 298 at the wheel to 567, just like that... Just a tune and delete... From around 650# tq iirc to 1200#, just like that. I'm more interested in longevity then and now, so, I tuned back to 428/940 at the wheels and moved the timing back off the tune, and I can still get around faster than I need to of I need to...

Just a warning.. once it's tuned it's a different animal altogether from stock, and why these things are sought by drag racers and sled pullers.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thats interesting as I am hoping to get me a 2011 F350 later in the week, we will see how that pans out
For this particular F250 I dont need any super performance hahaha me being a race instructor hahaha i need the thing to just run successfully
I am wondering about this
Ford Emissions Delete DPF EGR Delete Tuner Only '7 Day Sale' | eBay
all it does is turn off exactly what I want and nothing else which is okay for me
What do u recon?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have found this site which seems interesting,
Chips - Modules - Programmers - Ford 6.4L Powerstroke 2008-2010 | XDP
I dont want to spend too much just to get the truck running right,, this morning it started with the key,, I cleared the codes last night even though they will not clear and then tried to restart it,, nope need to use the wire trick to battery again.
Are the codes I listed the reason for it not starting?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Those are a gamble... Some use them with no problems, others have nothing but problems.. it's your call.
I have ordered a DPF-R+ so will keep my fingers crossed it will do the trick for this week I am happy to just do the jumper trick to get around :)
 

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I hope it works out well for you, and it likely will... I think many people have issues with that thing when they attempt to stack them.

there are two different schools when it comes to tuning- flash the pcm (the right way) and modules that intercept the information from this or that sensor and modify/replace it with lying information.. modules can get you into trouble if you're not careful, especially if there is an existing tune on the rig, effectively multiplying the tunes...

modules (also called chips) must be present on the rig for them to work.. Tuners (pcm flash) don't.. you tune and remove, or if it has a monitor function you tune and then let it monitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I agree with you Drew, i can see where an edge tuner was used once because the dash was not put back right, i soon clipped it back in to place :) for this particular truck I am working on a tight budget on it, but I have my 350SD I may well go for a "good" tuner, it seems very few will disable the EGR, my F350 still has the EGR and at 200k miles is still going strong, so may invest on that truck which is my towing truck :) I will let you know how I get on with this plug in cheater module, i am still waiting on my VXDIAG VCX programmer for one of the mustangs I have here, I am keen to see if that will allow me to disable the EGR too, I should be able to flash the ECU from that tool, its coming from Ford and darn expensive but I can justify the expense for that item, we shall see, I didnt know you could get so much more power out of the 6.4 with just a tuner
 

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Discussion Starter #36
HA an update,, I washed the truck down and thought I would check the 3 exhaust sensors,,, well it doesnt have any, they have all been cut off, I dont have a cat, I dont have anything except a pipe where the particle filter and cat would have been,, so its looking like a programmer is needed no matter what
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ok decided I may keep the truck over winter so have ordered H&S Performance Mini Maxx DPF EGR Delete Race Tuner to get the job done right and some Firestone Air assist Shocks to take up the extra slack as i often haul 18000lbs
My 350 is nice but I like this 08 F250, I will post some pics when I am done messing with it, cant wait to see how much kick the tuner gives me, it was not cheap but if I keep the truck a few months it is then money well spent :)
 

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sweet... I've never heard of anyone NOT liking the H&S..... but here are some things you should know:

during the programming, make certain and choose the option 'no dpf present'...
make sure and load the HD300 family, as that is the only one that ignores the EGR...

for the trans, dig up (google or use owners manual) a schedule and tune accordingly.. I like the SL2, but your purpose may vary..

before you even start the truck: defuels... do just what they say, they pull fuel when a certain milestone is achieved.. mine, very conservative, are:

coolant temp (ECT): 170 cold, 210 hot
exhaust temp (EGT): 900*
Transmission temp : 200*
boost: 35psi

it's important you don't run it hard until the block is warm- the coolant will tell you that.. you'll want good oil flow and coolant flow on a warm block before it can handle the boost... and maintain your head gaskets...

drive it on the stock level almost exclusively... if you ever venture at or above the 'wild' setting, do so with a light foot and never just stand on it, 'roll' into the throttle...

you're gonna dig that rig!!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
sweet... I've never heard of anyone NOT liking the H&S..... but here are some things you should know:

during the programming, make certain and choose the option 'no dpf present'...
make sure and load the HD300 family, as that is the only one that ignores the EGR...

for the trans, dig up (google or use owners manual) a schedule and tune accordingly.. I like the SL2, but your purpose may vary..

before you even start the truck: defuels... do just what they say, they pull fuel when a certain milestone is achieved.. mine, very conservative, are:

coolant temp (ECT): 170 cold, 210 hot
exhaust temp (EGT): 900*
Transmission temp : 200*
boost: 35psi

it's important you don't run it hard until the block is warm- the coolant will tell you that.. you'll want good oil flow and coolant flow on a warm block before it can handle the boost... and maintain your head gaskets...

drive it on the stock level almost exclusively... if you ever venture at or above the 'wild' setting, do so with a light foot and never just stand on it, 'roll' into the throttle...

you're gonna dig that rig!!

Thanks Drew
I decided I will keep the black truck despite it being the F250 as its just a nice truck, I have an 2007 F350FX4 King Ranch that I have been using but its about to hit 200k miles and the heater needs sorting out and I have to replace #7 glowplug, thats a super truck but this black one I like more.

I tow a lot, 2 or 3 times a week a 44ft dual car trailer, I will give this truck a try when I get the thing dialed in, I don't need it to do 0 to 60 in 4 seconds hahaha I need it to be reliable and pull well, I am not 100% certain the suspension will need updating with air cushions but will try it out as it is first.

My HK will be here Thursday so will see how it goes, i am really looking forward to getting to get the truck up and running for the first time out of limp mode.

Once I get it running well I will then start some additional mods, new smaller road tires for one as it has really large really wide off road tires right now with not much tread and it makes the steering really sloppy, had several trucks do similar things with sloppyness, it has a 4 to 5 inch lift already, its a nice truck and I am looking forward to enjoying it soon,,

Yes any tips on this programmer will be very much appreciated,, does it have a tow mode as stock?
:thumbsup:
 

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they call it tow... there are 'families' of tune, which are mild, wild, and HotDamn300... the HD300 is the only one that ignores EGR out of the box, so if yours is gone it's pretty much the one you've gotta use.

within each family, there are four settings and they are available to change while driving- they are stock, tow, street, and performance. I may be wrong here as I don't recall it all off the top of my head, but the HD family levels are Stock setting+50hp, tow setting +175hp, street setting+225hp, and performance setting +300hp.. you can see how that can get you into trouble- really fast get you into trouble... :)

I've got over 60k miles on mine running the HD family... mostly on street setting, but with a really light foot. It's true that the better mileage is in the higher settings, but it's also true that the cylinder pressures are off the charts running those. It's a good way to blow head gaskets if you're not careful.

the pilot injection is way early on the HD family- it's referred to as timing... there are three distinct injections per cycle.. the amount of fuel (pulse width or duty cycle) is determined by the setting, with performance dumping a lot of fuel, taking up space in the cylinder, effectively increasing compression and pressure- placing your HG's in danger but, OH BOY... it's quick.

this reminds me of an important setting you will encounter called 'low boost fueling'... I've never ran anything but 0... it is a setting from 0-5, and does exactly what it sounds like.. it pushes more fuel to the cylinder even when your truck hasn't spooled up yet... it creates a lot of smoke on 5, and very little on 0.. it is advantageous at steady highway speeds don't let there be doubt, but you'll run hotter and put your pistons in danger by running the higher numbers. I can't in good conscious tell you to run anything higher than 0.

when you're towing, and if you run the stock setting, you still get the early pilot shot of fuel, which is a danger over not getting it, but there isn't enough to harm anything, per say... because the stock setting increases HP even before the defuel level (hopefully you've set around 170* coolant temp) is achieved- the key to it is NOT to EVER just stand on it, but instead to roll evenly into the throttle to let the turbo do the same... standing on it causes the cylinders to load up with fuel and roll coal out the exhaust, which increases with RPM's, and then all the sudden the turbo is spooled up and presses loads of air into the cylinders too- and this will float a head and tear the gaskets out in short order. As a rule of thumb, I only run stock setting when I've got more than 7k# behind me... under that the actual 'tow' setting is fine, but the same rules apply.
 
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