JB - now that I've tested everything else and confirmed the issue is somewhere between the key and junction box (but not the ignition switch or a wire that's clearly visible), I wanted to confirm before pulling the junction box again - was your issue a wire INSIDE the box opposed to one that plugs into it? When I re-read your post that's what I am thinking now but wasn't sure if the fuse panel (junction box) actually comes apart to see the wires inside?Para_Bellum,
I found my issue and am sharing in the hopes that it'll solve yours as well.
Like you, everything from the starter relay on the fender to the starter is fine. Fuses fine. Tested my ignition switch, that tested fine in all positions. Here's what I did...
Check to see that you have 12v going to your fuse #3 (20A) in the Power Distribution Box. Set your multimeter to DCV, connect one lead to the neg terminal on the battery and probe the fuse with the other lead. Should read ~12v on both posts. If you don't show power, the problem is between the Starter Relay on the fender and the fuse -- most likely one of the fusible links. If you do have power, pull the fuse and probe the terminals that the fuse plugs into to see which one has power. The one that does not have power is the wire going to your ignition switch.
Set your multimeter to Ohms to check continuity. Test continuity between the non-powered terminal and the connector at the ignition switch (B4 in the diagram that RT sent). Mine showed an open line, no continuity.
After much blood, sweat, expletives and gnashing of teeth I traced the issue to a corroded and broken wire inside the Power Distribution Box, which coincidentally was the output wire from fuse #3. A couple of snips, strips, and a $.10 connector later to splice the wire back together and I'm back in business. Once fixed, you should show continuity all the way from the STA pin on the ignition switch to the ignition wire at the Starter Relay, and when you turn the ignition to Start you should see ~12v at the end of that same wire.
Hope this helps.
Its less confusing. For example, I open a thread and I start reading the first page and that problem and its symptoms were resolved years ago. Its a bit inconvenient to have to look at the date of each post to see if its 4 years old, 6 months old or if its the current issue.They were showing 12.5v. I did leave them in the house overnight before installing so they would be warm. At this point, I'm just wanting to get the starter to bump.
What's the point in having several threads for the same problem? I'd think it would make more sense to have like conversations grouped together.
The shift lever might be out of position. The bolts under the dash tend to get loose and introduce slop.so I have a 2002 f250 7.3 and this morning I went to start it and it clicked for the fuel pump but after that I had nothing I put a jumper pack on it and both batteries said fully charged so I don't know what it would be my dad argued and said it wasn't the starter but I think it is im just not sure.