My next upgrade (constant voltage & key on fuse blocks

279 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by Big Horn, 15 d ago

Big Horn

I’m already looking at parts and planning on adding two auxiliary 60A fuse blocks, one for constant voltage and one for key on power with two 6AWG battery cables going to their respective 60A circuit breaker(s) located at the passenger side battery location and then through the firewall right behind the glove box with one going to the constant voltage block and the other into a 60A relay for the key on panel and some type of removable board for access to the HVAC .
This will clean up my OEM fuse box and the small, added loads under the left side dash/fuse panel

I don’t think I like the idea of #2AWG with a 120A circuit breaker and then branching off into two 60 amp fuse blocks.

If anyone has any pictures or experience with this and or alternate locations I’m open to ideas.

Thanks!

2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW Dana 80 4.10 gears, 8’ Box, IAH Delete, Gauges: Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, Scan Gauge 2, GPR LED indicator, Voltage gauge, low oil pressure gauge, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Walker Big Truck Muffler, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Baldwin filter base / screw on filter on the A/T cooler rerun line, Using Mobil 1 ATF in Power Steering and Transfer Case, Amsoil Gear Lube in both differentials, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift - Load Lifter 5000 rear air bags, Rancho 9000 shocks, FAGbrand front (unit bearing) wheel hubs, rebuilt the locking auto hubs, Timbrens on the front, custom built front hitch / 17,500# remote winch, Big Tex chrome grill guard, Dorman replacement bed support channels, T-Rex spray in bed liner. White Rodgers GPR, Power Master 9501, XDP Coolant Filter

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klhansen

· #2 · 16 d ago

Look at Blue Sea Systems stuff for something that might work. They make marine power relays, circuit breakers, fuse boxes, etc. There are Chinese knockoffs of their stuff also if you want to go cheap.
Not sure why you're adverse to a single feed to each of your fuse blocks. That's probably how I would go.

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Big Horn

Discussion Starter · #3 · 15 d ago

klhansen said:
Look at Blue Sea Systems stuff for something that might work. They make marine power relays, circuit breakers, fuse boxes, etc. There are Chinese knockoffs of their stuff also if you want to go cheap.
Not sure why you're adverse to a single feed to each of your fuse blocks. That's probably how I would go.

Thanks Keven, I’m familiar with Blue Seas, they make great stuff and it meets the strict guidelines of the AYBC.
I’m thinking about building a shallower glovebox that would clear the distribution blocks and so that when the glovebox is dropped down it exposes and gives access to the fuses and wiring on the blocks.

All of which would be mounted to an insulated board that could be unbolted and dropped down (there’s a cover plate underneath that’s removable with a couple screws) after some wires are disconnected to access the heater/AC vent ducts and vacuum lines.

I’m still debating the 2AWG with the load split at the fuse blocks vs. two 6AWG feeding the blocks individually. A relay would still be required either way for the key-on distribution block. It’s not a very long run from the passenger battery to behind the glovebox.

I can see it in my mind.....just need to work it out some more and starting working on a diagram😀. It’s not so much that I am worried about the extra loads I have added at the fuse box (lower left dash) but that it would really clean things up with individual circuits being laid out cleanly instead of the taps, and make troubleshooting easier.

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