[Usmc1968]

Greetings,

So, I found a spot of oil on the floor of my barn. Clear oil coming from this (picture attached). Would this be the Torque converter? If it is how big of a pain are they to fix?
Thanks!
Semper Fi

2000 F250 7.3 CC

 

[Usmc1968]

Here is the picture

 

[RT]

The valley of the engine has a drain in the rear that will cause leaks from the top of the engine to drain down the back just like you are experiencing. Many a naive mechanic has replaced the rear main seal only to discover that wasn't the source. Get up top and see if you have a leaking HPOP or turbo. Could even be a fuel leak. The torque converter would bleed red.

 

[Usmc1968]

Ok, great thank you RT! It is clear and oily with no smell. Almost looks like the brake fluid coming out of my wiring harness by the Master Cylinder (taking it to Ford ASAP for the recall). I will go out and check it out as soon as this blizzard is over!!!

Semper Fidelis

 

[bugman]

How is your ail conditioning? It could be oil from the refrigerant.

 

[RT]

Out of the back of the motor? Kind of a circuitous route.

 

[Usmc1968]

Have not checked the AC yet, it is 20 here with Blizzard conditions here in Maryland. As soon as I can get to the barn I will check all of the above

Thanks!

Semper Fidelis

 

[Usmc1968]

Update,

When I checked the Vally of the engine I found some pools of Diesel. I suspected the fuel bowl valve gaskets but when I turned the truck on and off over the past few days I found this leaking (picture attached). When I tried to tighten it up a bit it snapped...Dohhhh Time to replace the FPR housing!!..How hard is this to replace? The connector that goes into the housing also broke off into the brass nut...arghghg Anyone have any good advice on kits or how to re-flare the tip of the fuel line while it is in place?


Thanks all!

Semper Fi

 

[Usmc1968]

Ok, so I received all the O rings from Bob at Diesel O rings, cut and re-fluted the return line, rebuilt the fuel bowl with all new O rings. But now the biggest bugger is getting the old compression fitting out of the tubing nuts. I have been using pick tools but what a pain. Any hints or suggestions on getting those buggers out?
Thanks!

Semper Fidelis

 

[klhansen]

If I'm understanding correctly, you cut the line off and re-flared it, and now need to get the broken piece out of the nut. I'd suggest putting the nut in a vise and using a sharpened punch to tap the broken stub counterclockwise. Or try a screw extractor that will engage the center of the stub.

 

[Usmc1968]

I removed the old nut when I cut the line. What you see in the picture is the new nut and new sleeve that I installed before re-flaring. What I am referring to is if anyone has tips/suggestions on removing the old degraded compression sleeves on the remaining 3 nuts. I have been picking at them with a picking tool with little progress.
Thanks!

Semper Fidelis

 

[Usmc1968]

Ok, so it also looks like I need new Alternator. Does anyone have any experience with Bosch? Specifically this one AL7555N, it only cranks out 105 AMPS is that enough? I have the Camper package on my 2000 F250 SD, 7.3. I have gone over all kinds of posts on alternators but no reference to Bosch and to stay away from re-manufactured ones (most brands)

Thanks
Semper Fidelis

 

[crashz]

105 seems a little light. But if you don't plow snow or used very heavy electrical devices, maybe. Bosch seems like the German Samsung. Makes everything. Some great, some good. I've never witnessed a Bosch (or Samsung) piece of junk. Still seems like you might want more amps though.

 

[Usmc1968]

Well folks, after replacing the FPR housing,fuel line pressure sleeves, and fuel bowl O-rings I have no more leaks! The engine valley has been bone dry for over a month of driving!! Thanks all for your help.

Semper Fidelis

 

[ArcticDriver]

Well folks, after replacing the FPR housing,fuel line pressure sleeves, and fuel bowl O-rings I have no more leaks! The engine valley has been bone dry for over a month of driving!! Thanks all for your help.

Semper Fidelis

Thanks for following up.
I have my fuel bowl o-ring kit from Diesel O-Rings but have not started the project yet.
Did you do the complete disassembly and cleaning of the fuelbowl found on the Guzzle website?

Also, I didn't buy the new FPR housing...is that typically replaced at this same time?

 

[blue99stroker]

Typically The housing isn't replaced unless broken.

The fpr is a maintenance item often overlooked though.

I rebuilt mine and the poppet was worn and the Orings were shot.

 

[ArcticDriver]

Typically The housing isn't replaced unless broken.

The fpr is a maintenance item often overlooked though.

I rebuilt mine and the poppet was worn and the Orings were shot.

Thanks for this info.

Which spring color do you recommend?

 

[Usmc1968]

The FPR housing is extremely weak, I turned it like 1/4 way to tighten and it snapped right off, so think about that before moving forward (read my posts on broken fpr housing, either here or on ford-trucks). I used the middle spring and I did notice it being a little peppier.

I did about 90% of the bowl rebuild, I did not remove the heater. Also if you remove the bowl from the truck (recommended) replace the compression fittings on the fuel lines (4). The old ones are a pain in the rear to remove, I used a pick kit from Harbor Freight (about $1.99). Also, watch where you rest your body. While I was laying on the engine trying to remove the old fittings the Alternator was a perfect resting place for my right elbow, well wouldn't you know it that I snapped the frigging positive charging cable lug right off! That actually was a blessing in disguise because it was about to break off anyway from corrosion and age. I also used Gasoila on all the fuel line threads.

The directions on Guzzle's site are awesome (so is he by the way, very responsive to questions), but I also did a YouTube search on this and found some good videos on fuel bowl rebuilds.
Hope this helps a little

Semper Fidelis

 

[ArcticDriver]

The FPR housing is extremely weak, I turned it like 1/4 way to tighten and it snapped right off, so think about that before moving forward (read my posts on broken fpr housing, either here or on ford-trucks). I used the middle spring and I did notice it being a little peppier.

I did about 90% of the bowl rebuild, I did not remove the heater. Also if you remove the bowl from the truck (recommended) replace the compression fittings on the fuel lines (4). The old ones are a pain in the rear to remove, I used a pick kit from Harbor Freight (about $1.99). Also, watch where you rest your body. While I was laying on the engine trying to remove the old fittings the Alternator was a perfect resting place for my right elbow, well wouldn't you know it that I snapped the frigging positive charging cable lug right off! That actually was a blessing in disguise because it was about to break off anyway from corrosion and age. I also used Gasoila on all the fuel line threads.

The directions on Guzzle's site are awesome (so is he by the way, very responsive to questions), but I also did a YouTube search on this and found some good videos on fuel bowl rebuilds.
Hope this helps a little

Semper Fidelis

This helps alot!

Thanks