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Yesterday my serpentine belt started squeaking again. I replaced the belt 4 weeks ago with a new Motorcraft one. The old belt looked fine which confused me on why it was sqeaking. 2 days ago on my way home, I slammed on my breaks to test them out and once I let off of the breaks the serpentine belt was squeaking, increasing with the RPMs. (Which made no sense unless I dislodged the PS pulley). I took off the belt again and checked the pulleys, they all seem fine besides the Power steering pulley, which I can pull in and out 1-2mm. Is this normal? I feel like this is causing the belt to ride on one side of the water pump pulley resulting in a squeak. The pulley had play like this in it since I replaced the belt, which confuses me on why it just started squeaking recently. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Josh.
 

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A little end play in the PS pump shaft is normal.
You might have to recheck your belt tensioner. You said in another thread that you'd checked the pulleys, but they are the most prone to going bad.
I have had alternator bearings squeal on first startup when it was cold out, then "heal itself" after it warmed up. It could be a bearing issue. Maybe you were on the ragged edge of a pulley bearing going bad last time you checked and it's now much worse.
 

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Okay, I think I may just replace the tensioner and idler this next week to see if that resolved the issues. I'm just confused on why it didn't squeak for 4 weeks or so after I got the new belt on and now its starting to squeak again.
 

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Update- now I'm thinking that it's the water pump especially since there is a coolant leak in the front. Would explain the squeak as well especially if one of the bearing is going out.
 

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As long as you are changing the water pump, I would go ahead and change the thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner, and idler, and check the fan clutch.
 

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AHHH Memories! :) While you have it all apart and putting in fresh coolant, may I suggest also adding a coolant filter?

https://www.dieselsite.com/1996-2003ford73lnewwaterpump-1.aspx


This is what I did when I had to replace the pump on my 99 Dually. Though back then it wasn't attached to the water pump like they have now. Pretty neat too.
 

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A thorough search through TDS archives might be beneficial before starting your water pump replacement— here’s a copy from a 2012 post on TDS of what was previously mentioned here and a similar “squealing sound”



“Fan Clutches Check your fan clutch! I am reasonably confident my pump failed due to a bad fan clutch. At 280,000 miles, I cannot complain to much about this, but the water pump only had about 60,000 miles on it. Around 2300 RPMs, there was an intermittent squealing noise I could never isolate. The squeal is now gone, and the turbo's sweet song is much more pronounced. My wife even commented the truck sounds different. She knows the sound of m truck, and can normally tell when I am close to the house. She was surprised when I walked in the door after first making the repairs, because the truck sounded so different. I guess the fan clutch died a slow enough death I never recognized how much different it sounded.”
 

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Below is copy of the “post” it came from—a lot of other good info too.....


Apr 04, 2012 · #1
Navistar / IH Water Pump Upgrade


Post edit: what I should have said is “a reference to the posts title” and not copy
 

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That's why I recommended that he check the fan clutch, because when my fan clutch went out, it took the water pump out with it. Maybe that is what is happening to him also. Hopefully, he will catch it in time before it takes out the radiator and fan blades also.
 

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That's why I recommended that he check the fan clutch, because when my fan clutch went out, it took the water pump out with it. Maybe that is what is happening to him also. Hopefully, he will catch it in time before it takes out the radiator and fan blades also.
Don, I’m not sure myself what is involved in checking the fan clutch. Is it inspecting for cracks, clutch engagement, ? Maybe someone can expand a little on what to check and look for.
 

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I have had a squeak that I couldn't locate, replaced bad water pump, power steering, tensioner, idler pulley, belts etc it would always come back until I stumbled upon a video that mentioned the Water pump pulley, since replacing the pulley the squeaking is gone! hope this helps I ordered an oem through riff raff
 

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I forgot about the fan clutch. I remember those posts now.
 

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You’ve got to be kidding!!!! Like I’ve got time for this....Lol ,but straight off TDS as follows:



08:18 PM 01-24-2007 #6
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SmokeyWren
Quote:
I think the fan is running all the time?
Yes, it "runs" all the time. The fan clutch is a viscous clutch, filled with a synthetic high-viscosity oil. So even when that viscous clutch is "slipping" it's still drawing a horse or two worth of power from the engine to pull lots of air through the radiators and coolers. When it locks up under full song, it uses about 27 horses from the engine to pull a hurricane through the radiator and coolers.
Quote:
The workshop manual includes tests to determine if the fan clutch is operating properly. At the risk of boring most of the others to death, here's what it says:
Quote:
Fan Clutch Test
NOTE: The following test does not apply to the 6.0L diesel. For the 6.0L diesel, refer to the Powertrain Control / Emmisions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows: Fan Clutch Test — Minimum Speed Requirement
Use a suitable marker to mark the coolant pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312). Connect a tachometer to the engine. Install a throttle adjusting tool. Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer. WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation. Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved. Operate the strobe light at 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the coolant pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the coolant pump pulley mark are synchronized. Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still). The fan blade speed must not be greater than 2,000 rpm on 7.3L engines. Turn the engine off. If the fan blade speed was greater than 2.000 rpm on 7.3L diesel engines, install a new fan clutch (8A616). Fan Clutch Test — Maximum Speed Requirement
Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement. NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.
Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed. Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position. Adjust the strobe to 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines. WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation. Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the coolant pump pulley mark are synchronized. Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still). If the fan blade speed is less than 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.
So the kicker is that in order to properly test the fan clutch, you have to get the engine hot enough that the air going through the radiator and hitting the front of the fan must be up to 205º F., so the fan clutch will lock. With the fan clutch locked and you making the engine scream at 3,600 RPM, the fan speed should be at least 2,850 RPM.
Now folks, that is one very noisy test. :widegrin:
 

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Don't run the engine at 3600 RPM (that's not even possible unless you've got a tune that overrides the rev limiter).
What you do is increase engine speed so the WATER PUMP PULLEY is spinning at 3600 RPM. Because of the difference in size between the water pump pulley and the crank pulley, the water pump spins significantly faster than the crankshaft.
 

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I think I would just buy a new fan clutch before taking the time for that test...Lol

But I think you guys have possibly identified his squeak AND his vibration.
 

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That test will help to determine if the clutch is working. Also, if the bearings in the fan clutch are going out, it will allow the fan to wobble, and if it gets bad enough, it will allow the fan blades to touch the radiator and break the fan blades and puncture the radiator. So check for any wobble in the fan.
 

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That sounds like a test ran on a gas motor.
Works on gas or diesel. Like I said, the engine doesn't need to get to 3600 RPM. A gasser could, but diesels are usually rev limited below that.
 

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IIRC doesn't it need a BIG wrench to get it off? Or maybe I am thinking of something else, it has been well over a decade since I did the one I had.
 
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