[JustCris]

I had my regular mechanic give my truck a visual inspection underneath before we left for the (left)coast because my truck would make a thump noise every once in awhile. Like going over a bump that wasn't there (??).... Was able to replicate the noise while driving but everything looked okay like draglinks, not any slop in driveshafts etc. It got worse driving out from Colorado so I thought I'd have it checked out at the dealer, visions of being stuck in BF Nevada or Utah danced thru my mind. I noticed that the thump had escalated from the once in a while lone thump to a thump that would then give a slight vibration thru the wheel. This then went to the bump, the vibration thru the wheel & then to like driving over a hiway rumble strip. This too would stop after hitting it into 4wdhi.

First Stealer I went to (in garlic town) wanted to redo my turbo (!!!) after I explained the symptoms, even after I explained the vibration thru the wheel. I walked out~ Must of been having a sale on turbos?

Next dealer in the next town north actually looked at the truck (for 210.oo) and said I needed both bearings & all four tierods for just above three grand. I thanked him for his time, paid the 210.oo and left. Got home last night after my 1318 mile (one way)trek in one
piece. What's wierd though is that it did the solitary bump and the slight vibration thing once in awhile, but no more rumble strip noise.

What should I look at having fixed? I've spent two hours here now reading about bearings and balljoints etc, anything else? Why would it tie into the esof, the relationship of the bearings in the hubs?

Thanks for the advice in advance,

Cris

 

[JustCris]

One more thing to add to my already long post. Doesn't happen under braking or while turning or decel. Just while driving along under load.

Thanks again,

Cris

 

[mlohaus]

I see you have a hand shaker. Is there any chance you clutch is slipping or you have a clutch alimement or thrust bearing problem that would casue the clutch not not quite fully engage sometimes. I have a 67 firebird and when the clutch started to wear out I could get it to chatter real bad making it slip after the clutch was engaged under moderate load. Under normal or hard acceleration it offered no symptoms. It felt like running over rumbel strips. The whole car would vibrate and shake your teeth out if you kept on it. Just a though. When it starts to happen disengage the clutch to see if the problem go away.

 

[gym]

You said it goes away in 4wd. I have read about this symptom and it relates to the hub and the stub axle. As I understand it, when the hubs are unlocked, the stub axle rotates at a different speed than the hub. When you lock the hubs, the rotational speed is the same and the symptoms go away.

I was searching about ball joints when I saw these posts. I don't remember any more details. Seems like it was a bad bearing in the hub, but I'm not sure.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[graybuck]

My truck was doing this exact thing. Very difficult to pin point the location because it sounded like the bumper was loose or a hub cap, none of those were so I ultimatly changed the hub bearing assembly. When I removed the hub bearing I saw that the torrington bearing had gone dry and was seizing on the axle shaft. I think it was causing the front diff to lock-up and then release - thus the banging sound. I replaced the assembly and it has been perfect now for 2000 miles.

 

[JustCris]

[ QUOTE ]
I see you have a hand shaker. Is there any chance you clutch is slipping or you have a clutch alimement or thrust bearing problem that would casue the clutch not not quite fully engage sometimes. I have a 67 firebird and when the clutch started to wear out I could get it to chatter real bad making it slip after the clutch was engaged under moderate load. Under normal or hard acceleration it offered no symptoms. It felt like running over rumbel strips. The whole car would vibrate and shake your teeth out if you kept on it. Just a though. When it starts to happen disengage the clutch to see if the problem go away.

[/ QUOTE ]

No I don't think it's the clutch, happens when I'm coasting also, under no load. The vibration thru the wheel seems to be present more in turns.
So I'm starting to think it could be the bearings....But not for 1700!
Anyone know what book labor calls out for this R&R ?? As Dirty Harry said once, a man has got to know his limitations.... I know I won't be doing this myself.

Thanks for the thoughts & the reply!
Cris

 

[JustCris]

[ QUOTE ]
You said it goes away in 4wd. I have read about this symptom and it relates to the hub and the stub axle. As I understand it, when the hubs are unlocked, the stub axle rotates at a different speed than the hub. When you lock the hubs, the rotational speed is the same and the symptoms go away.

I was searching about ball joints when I saw these posts. I don't remember any more details. Seems like it was a bad bearing in the hub, but I'm not sure.

Hope this is helpful.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the reply, Sounds like I'm going to be buying some bearings, don't it?? Always something.....I'd much rather spend money on speed parts than just getting it to work normally, you know...

Thanks again,
Cris

 

[JustCris]

[ QUOTE ]
My truck was doing this exact thing. Very difficult to pin point the location because it sounded like the bumper was loose or a hub cap, none of those were so I ultimatly changed the hub bearing assembly. When I removed the hub bearing I saw that the torrington bearing had gone dry and was seizing on the axle shaft. I think it was causing the front diff to lock-up and then release - thus the banging sound. I replaced the assembly and it has been perfect now for 2000 miles.

[/ QUOTE ]

Graybuck I think you nailed it right on the head. Kinda sounds like
a on-off action of the esof going haywire. How many hours did it take you to swap out the bearings, assuming you did both sides which I'm sure you did? How many times did you swear??

Thanks again,

Cris

 

[Kev]

I just finished doing bearings (hub assembly) on both sides and it took about five hours because I required the use of a torch to get the studs out of the old hub to put into the new one. Save yourself some time and buy new studs, only a few bucks and well worth the pain. I think I ended up paying around $450 for both hubs, a few bucks for some grease and PB Blaster...then good to go.

Hint: Save the yellow o-ring that goes around the hub assembly, my new ones didn't come with one. Discovered that AFTER I melted the first one off with the torch.