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I wouldnt worry about it as much if i was sticking with green coolant. However, I am doing a complete coolant flush and would like to know which items are necessary to replace. I will be replacing the thermostat, but I am on the fence about the hoses and the degas bottle. My hoses are pretty new and in great shape. I notice that alot of people will replace thermostat, hoses, and degas bottle. After a flush, are the insides of the hoses and degas bottle still somewhat contaminated from the green coolant, making it necesarry to replace when switching to ELC?
 

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No need to replace anything, it’s just a convenient times to do it since the system would be drained. You should do the flush as there is a lot of trapped coolant you can’t just drain out?


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Dito what RT said. I was going to reply to your other thread but now you have this one going.

Here is a good set of instructions on doing a coolant flush.

 

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No need to replace anything, it’s just a convenient times to do it since the system would be drained. You should do the flush as there is a lot of trapped coolant you can’t just drain out?


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So all the stress on replacing the degas bottle cap is unnecessary too? I figured it was all something to do with not wanting to mix the old and new coolant.
 

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Dito what RT said. I was going to reply to your other thread but now you have this one going.

Here is a good set of instructions on doing a coolant flush.

Thanks man. Yeah i just went today and bought 4 gallons of Rotella ELC, 20 gallons of distiller water, the Prestone flush and fill kit, and i have a new thermostat on the way. If i use distilled water, then I assume I dont need VC-1 or an equivalent coolant flush solution? If you saw my other thread, then you know I am a little nervous about the condition of my engine. I did a coolant test and it showed almost no additives and it says i have only 30% glycol. So i am switching to ELC and hoping my engine is ok because I dont know how long the truck has been running this way, as I just bought it a month ago.
 

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Depending on how old it is. I would replace the degas bottle cap. They are cheap insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Depending on how old it is. I would replace the degas bottle cap. They are cheap insurance.
Thanks for your input buddy. Do you guys think I should check for potential damage to my engine from pitting because of the lack of additives in the coolant?
 

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You would pretty much have to cut the engine in half to inspect it.

A big plus for you is that the 7.3 is fairly robust when it comes to cativation, it happens but not often

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You would pretty much have to cut the engine in half to inspect it.

A big plus for you is that the 7.3 is fairly robust when it comes to cativation, it happens but not often

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Thanks Bugman. I didnt know if pulling the heads would give me a good look at the cylinder walls. I guess ill just do the flush, switch to ELC and hope for the best. I appreciate the responses guys
 

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You would pretty much have to cut the engine in half to inspect it.

A big plus for you is that the 7.3 is fairly robust when it comes to cativation, it happens but not often

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I noticed that Gooch and Smokey Wren did not mention a VC-1or comparitive coolant flush solution in their step by step coolant flush instructions. Since Im using distilled water, is the solution unnecessary?
 

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If you end up replacing the water pump you may find evidence of cavitation there. I did find some pitting in a couple locations when I replaced mine. Nothing more than a 1/8 inch deep in one spot. I posted some pictures in a thread I started a couple years back.
 

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If using an ELC coolant you dont need the additive. If not then you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If using an ELC coolant you dont need the additive. If not then you do.
I’m not talking about an additive. I know ELC does not need additives like the conventional green coolant. What I am referring to is a flush solution only designed for flushing coolant. The Ford product is VC-1 and its called Premium Cooling System Flush. Fleetguard also has one called Fleetguard Restore part #CC2601. I just wasnt sure if i still needed this since I am flushing with distilled water.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you end up replacing the water pump you may find evidence of cavitation there. I did find some pitting in a couple locations when I replaced mine. Nothing more than a 1/8 inch deep in one spot. I posted some pictures in a thread I started a couple years back.
I found your thread but there were no pictures. Do you still have pics of the corrosion?
 

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I flushed with water and engine running, then flushed with distilled pulled the plugs and repeated with distilled. No restore used but my system was clean to begin with. Added a coolant filter system after the ELC conversion.
 

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Here are my water pump pics.
 

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Need some more information on you truck, What year is it?? Very early ones can have issues with ECL. No need to replace any parts as the others have said.
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Need some more information on you truck, What year is it?? Very early ones can have issues with ECL. No need to replace any parts as the others have said.
DENNY
Mine is an 01 so ELC shouldnt be an issue. I am just hoping there hasnt been any internal engine damage done from running conventional green coolant with no additives at 30% glycol
 

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I would not loose sleep over it. I am sure a large percentage of the trucks have had poor or improper care and you really do hear a lot about it in an 01. Flush, fill, and drive it like you stole it!!
DENNY
 
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