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Cant really complain, the original single Alternator in my 02 PSD has almost two decades and 242.5k miles on it. Electrically it still works well, 12.8v EOFF, 14.2V EON no load and 13.9 EON loaded with AC and lights. However, during a recent water pump R&R I had the belt off and rolled the alternator rotor in the quiet, it has the bb's in a can sound of failing bearings. So its gonna fail soon mechanically.
It is not capacity marked, on the original 02 Ford options paperwork it indicates that 130 amp was standard but all I seem to find in OEM is 110 amp. So what really came in the 2002 PSD's 110 or 130 amp alternators in single unit?
I want to put a good quality replacement in, not to small certainly and trade one problem for another. . But not so large in amperage I have to make wiring modifications since I just use it as a daily driver.

Recommendations?
 

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Changing between a 110/130 amp alternator won't make any difference to your wiring requirements. If it was me what I would do (and actually exactly what I DID do on my '06) is find a local starter/alternator shop that still does the work onsite. That means not some place that orders boxes from China and resells them but rather one with little old guys in the back at a workbench taking motors apart and putting them back together. Ask them what they recommend and listen to their advice. Failing that I'd buy a 130 or higher amp genuine Motorcraft unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Changing between a 110/130 amp alternator won't make any difference to your wiring requirements. If it was me what I would do (and actually exactly what I DID do on my '06) is find a local starter/alternator shop that still does the work onsite. That means not some place that orders boxes from China and resells them but rather one with little old guys in the back at a workbench taking motors apart and putting them back together. Ask them what they recommend and listen to their advice. Failing that I'd buy a 130 or higher amp genuine Motorcraft unit.
Thank you Bob, I may get the alternator rebuilt by a local dedicated shop but what I had in mind was replacement with no wait for rebuilders to get around to it downtime. So I will buy something, quick swap it and get the original rebuilt. Then I will have a spare. I have to have my truck ready to travel all the time for my business, much of which is emergency response to industrial plants. I used to fly but with Covid19 cooties I am not going anywhere in a flying petri dish. Still would like to know, OE supply 110 or 130 amp?
 

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If you have a shop that rebuilds them in your area you can check with them. The one that near me kept at least a couple of the more popular alternators, starters, and other things that they worked on in the shop so that you didn't have to wait.
 

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Still would like to know, OE supply 110 or 130 amp?
I guess you can Google as well as I can or probably better but I see several online references to 110 being OE. 110 or 130 is marginal IMHO regardless. Any decent rebuilder will have something on the shelf, as bugman has already suggested but I'd be looking for at least 150 amp. Like I said in my original post, find a local rebuilder, ask him the question and take his advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guess you can Google as well as I can or probably better but I see several online references to 110 being OE. 110 or 130 is marginal IMHO regardless. Any decent rebuilder will have something on the shelf, as bugman has already suggested but I'd be looking for at least 150 amp. Like I said in my original post, find a local rebuilder, ask him the question and take his advice.
Yes, I can see with some usages it would be marginal. I just wanted to be certain what the existing marginal unit, that lasted me trouble free for 19 years and 242.5k miles, might exactly be. Maybe its a national Ford printing error but the multi vehicle options brochure from 2002 indicates 130 amps as " standard " meaning single alternator for F250 and 350 and dual alternators as "Optional" yet everything searched comes up with 110 amps as the OE replacement. Same data I used to order my truck with in 2002.
 

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Buy an alternator for a 6.0L, should be a 6G large case and available in 140A. You'll need to grind out the bottom of your alternator mount for clearance with the larger case. Take your old alternator in to compare to be sure you get the large case. You may have to change out the pulley, but that's easy enough to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Buy an alternator for a 6.0L, should be a 6G large case and available in 140A. You'll need to grind out the bottom of your alternator mount for clearance with the larger case. Take your old alternator in to compare to be sure you get the large case. You may have to change out the pulley, but that's easy enough to do.
Great Idea, I will do that and let the group know how it works out. Thanks
 
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Great Idea, I will do that and let the group know how it works out. Thanks
Look forward to your feedback, part number also please- I’m at 192K on what I’m sure is the original alternator.
 

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I have one on my truck. Was a take-off I got from a member here. NAPA lists them. Mine did go bad, and I got it repaired locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Look forward to your feedback, part number also please- I’m at 192K on what I’m sure is the original alternator.

Everyone has their own justification metric and vision of what is value to them. I learned more about automotive alternators in the last week than I had been interested in knowing in my life. Lot of weasel worded sales language selling some of the so called best rebuilds and even new units. Long twisted verbiage resertations about how great their better than new rebuilds are then a 1 year warranty and pages of warranty exclusions.

So this is what I did and why. I bought a "New" Ultima Select 135 Amp Alternator their part # USL NII2023B, from O'Reilly's. Its a big case 6G for a 6.0 PSD but it fit easily into my 7.3 PSD. 5 minutes with a file on the mounting cradle and it fit down with clearance. One could just put a three 3/8 washers between cradle and case and swap this entire unit out in 5 minutes. Plug in and run, it all fits. The case is not as robust as the OEM, but it appears to be the case all the rebuilders are using. Thats what I did.

Why, " Lifetime Warranty " from a national chain without a bunch of weasel words, Both NAPA and O'Reilly's when you bring in a bad one that test's bad they give you a new one. No x-ray vision ex-spurts challenging you about what you are running. Thats a value to me. So, for a 5 minute installation item if it goes out every year and they replace it I am satisfied, thats value to me.

I dont anticipate my system load needs or potential changing but should it change I have a bit more capacity than the small case 6G OEM 110 Amp unit, yes there is a way to tell its a 110 amp unit. Need unchanged there is no need to augment wiring. I will likely add a "piggy-back" charge cable to cover that possibility. It really wont matter unless I try to net system load more than 110 amps.

That OEM small case 6G 110 that came with the new unit in 2002, core charge was only 5 bucks, I will keep and rebuild it myself for fun and something to tinker with; bearings, slip ring and regulator are all I am likely to need. Kit is less than 50 bucks. I will rebuild it and take it to be free tested and have a spare. On balance this fits both my sense of order and value metric.
 
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So this is what I did and why.
Thank you for the feedback and part # Oneof6, makes sense to me— I Saved the post for future use.
 

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I have a NAPA 110V rebuild hanging around as a spare. In case my 6G large case goes out (again). It's a lifetime warranty one as well, so can get that swapped out if needed.
 

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Those 110 volt alternators are shocking.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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OOPS! Of course I meant 110A. :confused:
 
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