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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought new batteries in March of '06. I got them at Autozone, they are Duralast Gold, 875 amps, 1000 cca. At least that's what it says on the batteries.

They have been fine until the last week. Batteries would be dead in the morning, like 10 something volts each. I would jump them with a 50 amp starter that I have and they would be fine all day with many restarts. Overnight, dead again.

Took batteries to Autozone, they had to charge them up to test them, however both batteries came out as "good". They had a charge now, took them home last night and installed them. Truck started up like gangbusters, let it idle for about 15 minutes, shut it down and went to bed. Up at 3:30 am to take wife to hospital 2.5 hours away for surgery. Batteries deader than a door nail again!

Something is draining them, I believe both of my dual alternators to be just fine. Where do I start? Should I go out and get a battery charger and slow charge them at 2 amps to see if that helps? What about bad connections somewhere, where do I look? How would I test for a power drain? I need my truck running badly right now!

Thanks!

Howard
 

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1999 (6/98) F250 XLT 4x4, 7.3L, DP Tuner 80hp Etune, HX Crossover, ~365K miles
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What is the voltage reading with the truck running?

It should be in the 14+ volt range, or you may be having charging issues.

You can also test the system...if you have an appropriate AMP meter to see what the drain is with the truck turned off. Do you have anything in the cig or accessory socket? Some of those lifestyle accessory chargers still draw 'a little' amperage with nothing attached.

I don't know if AutoZone does this, but O'Reilly's has the diagnostics for the batteries and alternator electrics to see which one is causing the problem. When I took them my truck, they said it was the alternator (that was 2+ years ago-no problems since). When I took them my wife's SUV, it was the battery (same story-still working great). They have a roll around unit they took out to the curb. FWIW, I do have a friend that's a store mgr (otherwise no affiliation).

HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That does help, thanks. I did check with the truck running and it was in the 14.3 volt range, same for both batteries. Autozone will test the alternator but since I have two, I thought that might throw them for a loop!

I had a seperate 8 gauge wire going to a powered subwoofer, thought that might be in a standby or something, disconnected it thinking that would be a problem. Nope. Let's see, there is the sirius radio that's always hooked up, but that can't draw much if anything. One thing I am really suspicious about at this point is the remote start setup I installed when the truck was new. My truck is an xlt and didn't have remote door locks so I installed the remote start mostly for the remote. This required some relays, wonder if they are giving me fits? I just might disconnect power to that and see if it cures it.

Thanks, you've given me some starting points! Open to any and all other suggestions too!

Howard
 

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Hook up an amp meter with the truck off, note the amp draw and start disconnecting things/pulling fuses one at a time to find out what is drawing the batteries down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the suggestions and wanted to give an update.

Amp draw was hardly anything at all. I'm scratching my head and it was always coming back to the batteries. Remember I said that Autozone tested them for me the night before last? Well, don't trust a first opinion or someone's machine. I went there because I bought the batteries there. Out of frustration and just on a hunch, I went to Advance Auto Parts because I knew the guy knew his stuff and was honest. I explained the problem and he's thinking batteries too. I bring them in and the first giveaway was one of the batteries was extremely hot. It wasn't on the tester very long.....BAD BATTERY. Second one up, BAD BATTERY AGAIN!!!

I bought 2 new batteries off the man and kept my bad ones to go have a talk with Autozone on Saturday. I am going to calmly explain to them that not only did I have to buy new ones somewhere else because I was stranded, but also the cost and time to diagnose a NON-PROBLEM with my truck! Batteries a year old, they had better make good somehow.

Thanks for the suggestions, I always appreciate when someone posts an outcome so I try to do it myself!


Howard
 

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I always like to finish off a post. Thanks. Let us know how it works out with Autozone. Just remember, he is only a kid, (probably) and only as good as his training. I have tought a few how to run their own machines, they usually appreciate it, and show it on the receopt.
 

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It may be the machine itself. Mine also tested fine at Auto Zone and they probably would have started a Geo for another 5 years, but they lacked the life to kick over a high compression diesel engine. Then what you need is a parts guy that knows something, he had be turn the truck over, and he replied "Them there batteries are shot, I don't care what that machine says!!" Two new batteries and I am back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[ QUOTE ]
It may be the machine itself. Mine also tested fine at Auto Zone and they probably would have started a Geo for another 5 years, but they lacked the life to kick over a high compression diesel engine. Then what you need is a parts guy that knows something, he had be turn the truck over, and he replied "Them there batteries are shot, I don't care what that machine says!!" Two new batteries and I am back on the road.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's interesting, when the guy was starting to hook the first battery up, he asks the manager if the machine was fixed. Manager said it's been fixed, just got it back today.

I don't know, I had all these little red flags going up when I was at Autozone the other night. I should listen to my little voice a little more often! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

But heck, got new batteries now and does it sure ever crank over. Also got new front rotors and pads last month, thanks in part to many posts I read that you were involved in, NChornet....so thanks for that too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
 

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I bought 2 duralast gold batts at autozone last weekend. When I got home I put them on my "smart" charger which decided they needed around 9 amps for almost an hour and then tapered down to 2 amps over the next hour.

I think even new batts need a full charge before they go into our trucks.
 

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Thanks for your comments on that brand. My batteries are still working in my 2000 but at times I think they might need to be replaced since the charge drops to 12.4 volts overnight after a full charge. I had thought about that brand, but now think I will go back to the OEM, Motorcraft, since they have served me well so far.
 

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No I don't think that 2 amps is Normal... I would look for something that is pulling all that power... the Stock radio memory should be around .13 amps at most...The CPU I think has a memory too but it should not be much power there... everything else should be dead... disconnect your Field wire (the plug not the large charge wire) from your alt and see if it is drawing the Amps. If the alt is going bad they will sometimes feed back through the field. After that start pulling fuses.

Start thinking of things that have power on them with out the key in the Ignition.. Remote, Radio, CPU, ALT, Power door locks, brake and 4 way flashers. ir it is now one of those... then check to see if your Ignition switch might be leaking power to some other system.
I start freaking out if I see anything more then .4 amps of draw at rest.

By the way FBR... Welcome to the Stop... and if you could Please think about filling out your profile... it lets us know what Truck you are bragging or crying about.
 
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