As loud as that knock is from the tail pipe, I would SWAG a broken glow plug sitting on top of a piston. It wouldn't hurt to pull your glow plugs out and look. At least you would know which side to pull for repairs. It doesn't sound like it has done much damage...YET.
check your oil psi with a mech gage. your oil psi regulating valve may be stuck open parcialy. if so lifters will start to fail then you will spinn a bearing. I just got done replacing my engine for the same reason. I didnt listen to your recording. i have dial up and it takes forever to load stuff like that. also a bad injector could cause a nock too. the dash psi gage is not a gage at all. as long as you have above 7 psi it will read like you have good oil psi. big deseption. not sure if it was fords designe or IH navistar's.
Get a stethoscope so you can reasonably locate which cylinder the knock is. A possibility that one of the rocker hold down bolts has come loose. Have to pull the valve cover to find out.
A bad injector is a possibility. Can you hear the knock, say at 1800 RPM?
There is no way the temp sensor can cause a knock.
The IP cannot cause the knock.
The reason you get smoke on a hard start, the cylinders load up with fuel, then when it starts it has to burn that fuel up. You'll get some white smoke for a little bit when it does that. Take some, not cold water and pour it over the IP, see if it starts quicker. If it does, the IP is going bad.
had a bad knock, swore a rod was rattling real bad.
found a rebuilt engine, real cheap, decided to go that way.
removed engine, discovered the dual-mass flywheel had failed.
installed new engine, used LUK single mass clutch and flywheel,problem solved .
kept old engine for spare parts
Checked oil pressure and it's good had the truck running for 8 hours nose didn't get any louder. The nose sounds like it's coming out of the transmission so it might be a fly wheel or bearing. I might rebuild my old motor or I am thinking about going with a Chevy motor and trans or a Dodge motor and transmission
Wouldn't a flywheel stop knocking at higher RPM once it leveled out? There would also be some vibrations felt through the floorboard at certain RPMs much like a u-joint going out, but worse. If you've driven this for any length of time and it IS a flywheel, the crankshaft is probably on its way out. It will break right at the flange, just inside the rear seal. I know because the best truck I ever owned died that way.
You might be right. Just trying to think . I pulled the valve cover off everything seems to be moving and working. Iam going to pull the driver side just for kicks. Just to make sure. Now the oil pan on these do u have to pull the motor out to remove the oil pan.
The other thing I did was I pulled this motor out of something else. Just wondering if the firing order would be wrong. But then it would of done this when i first start up . Because I pulled the lines off the injectors to put the wiring harness on.
Just finished a top end rebuild. New heads, new injector pump, new injectors, new lifters, new glow plugs, new rocker arms. 1990 Ford E-350 7.3 idi. 300,000 miles. So after a few frustrating weeks, she is back together and seems to be running fine, EXCEPT.... you can hardly stand to be in the drivers seat when she starts up. When things get warmed up it sounds louder then before, but still sounds normal. It is on start up that it is really noisy and a little bit of a quiver (hesitation) when it is warming up. After a warm up, oil pressure normal, temp normal, everything seems ok on all gauges, but still a lot louder than it was before the rebuild. Should I be worried or just go with the wait and see?