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So, here's the deal-we bought a toy hauler a few months back...My husband has already re-geared the rear end of his 2002 Ford F-250 Turbo Diesel. Now he needs to do the front too, but needs to find out how to do it. The problem is I know nothing about trucks and he knows nothing about the internet.

He asked me to find him a book/manual that will show him how to re-gear the front, and said he needed to know the torque specs and differential. All of this means nothing to me, so I am just trying to figure out where I can get this info for him.

Help is appreciated-Thanks!
 

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Front and rear differentials have to have the same ratio in them, but I'm sure he knows that..As far as installing, I have been wrenching for a while and regearing is best left to the guys that do that all day long. there is too many critical settings on the ring and pinion to just eyeball it. You need special tools and some "lead putty" stuff to set the back lash. Improper backlash settings could be trouble...Then there is the torque on the pinion seal...I could be wrong and I might get told so here, but I wouldn't chance the problems and would leave it to the PRO'S

BTW: Welcome to the Diesel Stop
 

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So, here's the deal-we bought a toy hauler a few months back...My husband has already re-geared the rear end of his 2002 Ford F-250 Turbo Diesel. Now he needs to do the front too, but needs to find out how to do it. The problem is I know nothing about trucks and he knows nothing about the internet.

He asked me to find him a book/manual that will show him how to re-gear the front, and said he needed to know the torque specs and differential. All of this means nothing to me, so I am just trying to figure out where I can get this info for him.

Help is appreciated-Thanks!
Depending on the gear ratio he is going with it is usually cheaper to buy an axle that already has the gear he wants. Assuming he wants a ratio that was a factory ratio. I have see complete axles go for 200 bucks in good shape. You will never find a good gear set for that cheap, then add the cost of the instalation kits for bearings etc...
What ratio is he trying to install?
 

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Your 2002 F-250 has either a Dana 50 or a Dana 60 front axle. 2002 is the model year Ford changed from the Dana 50 to the Dana 60 during the model year. So the first step is to determine which axle you have. One way is to read the tag on the axle, then figure out what the codes mean.

After you know whether you have a Dana 50 or a Dana 60, then you can buy the new ring gear and pinion kit from Randy's Ring & Pinion.

Here are the specs from the 2002 Ford F-250 workshop manual:

SECTION 205-03: Front Drive Axle/Differential
2002 F-Super Duty/Excursion Workshop Manual

SPECIFICATIONS

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(notice the words in the following window scroll left to right as well as up and down)
Code:
General Specifications 
Item                                                                      Specification 
Lubricants and Sealants 
SAE 90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant C2AZ-19580-F  ESW-M2C105-A 
High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A  ESA-M1C198-A  
Clear Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA  ESB-M4G92-A or ESE-M4G195-A 

Lubricant Fill Level Checks
Item                                                      Specification  
Axle lubricant                                  2.8 liters (5.9 pints)  

Backlash Specifications  
Item                                                       Specification 
Backlash between ring gear and pinion  0.13-0.20 mm (0.005-0.008 in) 
Maximum ring gear backlash variation  0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Rotational Torque Ranges 
Item                                                 Specification  
Pinion bearing preload                              1.7-3.4 Nm (15-30 lb-in) 

a Never back off the pinion nut to reduce preload. If preload reduction is
 necessary, install a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut. 

b Take frequent pinion bearing torque preload readings. 

c For new pinion bearing installation, tighten the pinion nut to a rotating
 torque of 1.7-3.4 Nm (15-30 lb-in) (217-678 Nm [160-500 lb-ft]). 
d For original pinion bearing installation, the reading must be 0.56 Nm 
(5 lb-in) more than the initial reading taken during the disassembly 
procedure. 

Torque Specifications  
Description                                                        Nm  lb-ft  
Pinion nut a b c d                                                  217-678  160-500  
Bolt retaining the front driveshaft to the front axle flange  35  26  
Nut retaining the u-bolt to the axle                                  133  99  
Nut and bolt retaining the trackbar to the axle                 174  129  
Bolt retaining the stabilizer bar bracket to the axle             47  35  
Bolt retaining the differential bearing cap to the differential housing  109  80  
Bolt retaining the differential housing cover to the differential housing  47  35  
Bolt retaining the ring gear to the differential case (model 50)  136  100  
Bolt retaining the ring gear to the differential case (model 60)  183  135  
Fill plug                                                          27  20  

a Never back off the pinion nut to reduce preload. If preload 
reduction is necessary, install a new collapsible spacer and pinion 
nut. 

b Take frequent pinion bearing torque preload readings.   

c For new pinion bearing installation on model 50 and 60 axles, 
tighten the pinion nut to a rotating torque of 1.7-3.4 Nm 
(15-30 lb-in) (217-678 Nm [160-500 lb-ft]). 

d For original pinion bearing installation, the reading must be 
0.56 Nm (5 lb-in) more than the initial reading taken during the 
disassembly procedure
I will e-mail a recent-version Word document that contains the workshop manual pages for assembly and disassembly of the front axle. So check your e-mail. It's way too long and complicated to try to copy it over to this editor, plus the illustrations won't copy over.
 

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I hate to be a wet blanket...but...the fact that he is considering and has even done some regearing suggests that he knows the truck is not hefty enough for the new toyhauler.

Even after the time and expense of regearing, the truck will still remain an F250 with applicable frame, suspension, brakes, and GCWR.

The best answer is to put the money into a more suitable truck.

JMHO
 

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The best answer is to put the money into a more suitable truck.

Well, yeah, there's that too. :yesnod:

But some folks don't care what Mama don't allow, they'll play their banjo anyhow. :lookaround:
 

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I hate to be a wet blanket...but...the fact that he is considering and has even done some regearing suggests that he knows the truck is not hefty enough for the new toyhauler.

Even after the time and expense of regearing, the truck will still remain an F250 with applicable frame, brakes, and GCWR.

The best answer is to put the money into a more suitable truck.

JMHO
You have no idea why he wants to regear. Maybe you should have asked that first. Maybe he has factory 4.30 and want a 3.73. Or maybe he does want to gear down. SO maybe he has a 3.73 and wants a 4.30. I guess Ford knew their trucks weren't going to be up to the task and that is why they had 4.30 as an avaliable option?
 

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I guess Ford knew their trucks weren't going to be up to the task and that is why they had 4.30 as an avaliable option?
The thread starter has a "2002 Ford F-250 Turbo Diesel". Only one gear ratio was available: 3.73.

Other gear ratios were available from the factory for pickups with single rear wheels (SRW) and lesser engines, but not for SRW pickups with the diesel engine. Other gear ratios were available from the factory for heavier-duty trucks, but not for SRW pickups with diesel engine. The 4.30 ratio was available on the F-450 with diesel engine, but not on any other model with diesel engine.
 

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Or, just maybe he put bigger tires on (I think some of us have done this). Now he needs to change the gearing to get back to a 3.73 effective ratio.

Or, maybe even put smaller tires on (this may be a first).
 

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I hate to be a wet blanket...but...the fact that he is considering and has even done some regearing suggests that he knows the truck is not hefty enough for the new toyhauler.

Even after the time and expense of regearing, the truck will still remain an F250 with applicable frame, suspension, brakes, and GCWR.

The best answer is to put the money into a more suitable truck.

JMHO
Just because it's a toyhauler doesn't mean it has to be huge. It could be well within the means of his 2fity.
 
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