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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I appreciate any help with this matter because I’m both panicked and beyond frustrated. Yes, I've looked over some of the other threads, but most others at least have the people being able to crank the engine.

I’ve changed injectors numerous times on several powerstrokes, and the only thing different this time was the injector cups; it was my first time doing these. I both bought and followed Riff Raff’s instruction sheet, and I even called them, verifying what to clean the bores with. I drained the oil and the coolant, using brake fluid, a Ford bore cleaning kit, and a pick. I got them pretty clean, and I even vacuumed them out and used an air gun to spray air in and dry them. I replaced the cups, letting them sit for three days, giving the Loctite time to harden. My dad showed up today, and we installed the glow plugs, the injectors, the new valve covers, wiring, and we even overhauled the front fuel tank, getting the old diesel and oil mix out, replacing the sending unit and filter. Finally, it came time to turn the engine over. We knew from past experience this would take a while, and I normally do this process once with the injectors out, but the instructions from Swamps said to just put it all back together and leave the wiring disconnected, so we did, and when I went to turn it over, it just stopped. I tried three times, and when I couldn’t get a good crank sound, I tried to turn it by hand, and it turned a little before stopping. The wires were never attached to the valve gaskets, and I’m afraid it’s locked up, but I cannot figure out how. I took extra measures, so what would cause it to not turn over? Should I remove the injectors and try with them out, should I wire them up? I knew the system would have air in the lines from all of the primary fluids being out: diesel, oil, and coolant, but when you turn the key, the belt just jumps and stays at a standstill, no real cranking motion. Please give me some feedback and/or direction.
Thanks for the time to read and the consideration.
 

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Sounds like it is hydra locked. Did you turn the engine over when the injectors were out? If not you could have fluid in a cylinder. Pull the glow plugs and see if you can turn it over by hand and see if some coolant come out.
 

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X3 on the hydrolock

Use a mighty-vac to suck fluids out of the cylinder. After you use the mighty-vac, turn the engine over by hand using a breaker bar on the crank nut.

There is very little space between the top of the piston and the cylinder head - don't risk bending a connecting rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I really appreciate the help guys. My dad is coming back down tomorrow, and we're going to pull it back apart. I assumed that I need to pull the glow plugs, and I'll try to turn it by hand vs bump the engine, and I'll definitely use the vac first, trying to get any excess fluids out. Is there any reason to repull the injectors, or will the issue lie in the glow plugs only?
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry, last question. My dad is here, and we're pulling off the covers, and removing the plugs. I'm seeing some of the fresh oil on the plugs. Do I need to redrain the oil, or can I leave it in there when I turn it all over by hand before bumping it electrically?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I truly appreciate the help gentlemen. We pulled the glow plugs, and ignore the previous question; i remembered that the passenger side had oil on them from where we added the oil. The driver side were partial dry and a coolant looking mix. Once we pulled them, we turned it by hand, and on the first turn, it burped, shooting out a watery-oily mix out of injector number 8's glow plug hole. once it was turned three times, we bumped it repeatedly, getting the rest out, and she fired up a little while later, running strong, but the check engine light was on. I shut it down and unplugged the negative cables, letting it rest for 10 minutes. It had some trouble starting again, but the light was off, and the smoke disappeared on the test drive, getting smoother by the mile. I added the remaining coolant once the stat opened, and we checked the oil; it all looks good. We had to replace the tanks because I lost up to 2 gallons of oil in less than a week, and we found it all in the tank, thus the reason we pulled them. I trust the cup and injector overhaul will fix the issue.

I'm curious about one thing, and maybe you all can help. I'm not looking for crazy power, but my dad's truck and some buddies' trucks have great throttle response on take off. Mine always felt sluggish, like you were high-shifting too soon. I've rebuilt the turbo and now the injectors and hpop. Could the issue be with my exhaust? I bought a 5" complete straight pipe with no muffler on it, and I only bought since it was the same price as the 4" at the time--on sale. I don't push enough horses to warrant the five, and the turbo take a little to spool. I deleted the EVBP, and have a new pedestal. I also have the 3.5 downpipe. Could I be loosing tons of back pressure with this 5" exhaust? Would reducing the exhaust back down give me the power back and letting the turbo spool like it needs too? If so, would I reduce it close to the downpipe or toward the end of the truck where the exhaust elbows out behind the rear wheel. Or, do I need to just replace the entire exhaust?

Many thanks diesel brothers; you saved my dad and I's sanity and gave me my truck back.
Cheers....
 
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