The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My rear rotors are finally shot after 15 years. I have powerslots in the front, but is that really necessary for the rear? I haven't priced them yet, but I am sure they are not cheap. I thought about just using an advance auto coupon code and picking them up from the local store. Also, what is the removal procedure like on the rears? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
oops. I did not know there was a separate forum for brakes. Mods - Feel free to move this. Thanks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,015 Posts
When I did rear brakes, I just went with loaded calipers and rotors from the dealer. Aftermarket rotors are not needed, IMO. But I'd at least buy the highest quality line rotors if you go to your local parts store.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
I went with suggestions from this site.

Even though dually front rotors are expensive, no matter where you buy them.
I bought mine through Ford and loaded calipers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,729 Posts
I have powerslots in the front, but is that really necessary for the rear?
Anything that reduces the surface area in-contact between the pads & rotors 1) reduces the braking force given the same pedal force; OR 2) increases the pedal force necessary to achieve the same braking force; AND 3) increases brake temperature given the same braking force; AND 4) increases pad & rotor wear given the same braking force.

That's essentially the same as what Wilwood says about its own (and any other brand's) drilled/slotted rotors.



For the best braking, lowest temperatures, and longest life, you want the biggest, flattest pads & rotors you can fit in there. The more pistons a caliper has (per side), the flatter the pads will remain.

Cryo-nodular-ceramic-cobalt-whatever rotors are gimmicks. If you want the best, buy the brand Ford controls. They're not much (if any) more expensive than local parts-store junk.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So, what it sounds like is that I should try to get the best possible price on original motorcraft?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,015 Posts
So, what it sounds like is that I should try to get the best possible price on original motorcraft?
If you're not in a giant rush, get them thru AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake. I just got parts to do front brakes (hoses, pads, caliper kits, slide pins, etc) thru them after trying to match up my front hoses locally without success. You can either just go to their site www.parts.autonationwhitebearlake.com or post in their forum if you have questions. Mike was very helpful in getting met the correct parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,729 Posts
...original motorcraft?
Yes, check the price of MC parts before buying any others.

No, MC parts are not necessarily "original". Ford doesn't make parts; it makes vehicles. It orders parts from mfrs. who agree to & actually DO meet all Ford specifications; sometimes, they use Ford designs - other times, Ford buys "off-the-shelf" parts that suit its vehicles. There can be MANY suppliers (OEMs) of any one part to the assembly line (OE parts). But the suppliers of parts in MC boxes & bags are NOT always the same mfrs. who supply the assembly line, and the supplier can change over the years (for both OE & MC parts). But no matter who's making MC parts or the country of origin, Ford will only allow them to go into MC boxes if they still meet Ford's latest specs for that part. The same supplier might also make OE pads & rotors for Honda & Caterpillar; and for NAPA & the zone. And each one has its own specs for that mfr. to follow. So just because a rotor comes from the same mfr. as a MC rotor, that doesn't mean it meets Ford specs unless it has the Ford logo on the part.

It's a subtle distinction, but worth being aware of.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top