[mm0015]

Hi,

I have pretty much everything for my conversion. I am using a A1000, Mallory 4305M bypass regulator, and a Daveco 234 plus fuel processor. I am running 1/2" alluminum lines for the WVO supply and return lines.

I still need 2-4 check valves (would like source suggestions here) depending on how I setup the engine compartment, and the various fittings. I am tryint to stick to alluminum and Stainless for all the fittings. I alo am intending to run the return WVO fuel through the fuel supply rails (I am keeping the #2 fuel return stock). I am thinking about mounting the regulator near the firewall on drivers side, connected to the two back ports of head. I am also planning to connect both the #2 and WVo through check-valves, into a Stainless cross fitting, and then into the front two head ports. I am having trouble deciding how to route the hoses, in an attempt to keep them short (purge time) and also for fear of getting to close to the turbo housing in the rear. I am debating between braided SS hose, or Aeroquip socketless hose, but am unsure of heat problems. Socketless hose only seems to be rated for up to 180 degrees (water).

Also, do you need to remove AC compressor to get to the front passenger side fitting? Is there room to run the hose out of that fitting with the stock AC mount?

 

[fordnut74]

MM- Sounds like you are on Track. I actually left the stock plumbing of the fuel lines, and tapped into them using compression fittings. Then ran my return lines, one from the front, and one from the rear. A feed in the front, and return in the rear is not a bad idea at all, is what cpuneck did, and probably what I will do the next time I do this. I used synthetic hose for the drivers rear by the turbo, and so farit has held up fine to the heat. If that is a concern, you should be bale to get some heat sleeve material through summit, or even JC whitney to slide over the hose. I want to say that I did remover the A/C pump to make access a bit easier. I also removed my turbo for easier access to the rear fuel ports, but can be done without removal of the turbo.

 

[flyingisbest]

I don't know if this helps you or not, but I did some preliminary exploratory surgery on my '04 6.0L to determine the rear head port setup and accessibility and found the following. Hopefully it will work on the older 7.3 just the same. Remove the wheel well skirt, mine took about 6 small screws in the fender lip and a couple bolts inside the well, and it simply pried down and laid on the tire. After that, it is a cinch to get to the rear head ports. Now mind, I only tried my passenger side, but one would think it would work on the other side as well. Sure beats removing turbo hoses, AC compressor and anything else for that matter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

Good luck

 

[mm0015]

Thanks guys. I like the idea of using the stock fuel lines for the ports that they are already connected to. In fact I think I may get a new set of OEM fuel rail to fuel filter lines to use in making my new setup. That way I can keep the unaltered originals to use if I ever have aleak and need to get it fixed asap.

 

[mm0015]

Ok. The dealer price on just the fuel lines from the filter to the heads is $128 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. I think I may just have a local hydraulic shop make up new lines for me, then I will keep the unaltered originals as a spare set to restore OEM configuration.

I have another question concerning routing. There is a small fitting between the head and the end of the fuel lines that ford calls a one way valve in the workshop manual, however another post on here described as more of a restrictor. When that person removed the restrictor while driving on #2, he had driveability issues. What have you guys done with this fitting? Have you left it there, and ran your #2 and WVO through it?

 

[fordnut74]

I didn't touch mine. Didn't even know they were there actually untill well after my install. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif