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Discussion Starter #1
I’m sorry for the extremely long post, hoping to get some insight as I start putting parts together.
I have went through pages and pages and numerous posts searching “38R” because of comments that have popped up in related 7.3 “upgrade“ posts.
I’m saving money for a next winter project, IH bellowed up pipes, EBPV delete pedestal, down pipe, and planned when pulling the turbo to rebuild with 360* bearings and wicked wheel 2.

Not soon, but eventually I will do a fuel regulated return and maybe single shot injectors with a tune for the single shots from Jody. DENNY gave me some good pointers and ideas when I tear into it this winter, but this whole turbo thing has got me confused. I don’t ever plan on big HP and am only addressing the exhaust work because of a small leak around the up pipe donuts. I see “a lot” of the guys doing the 360* bearing and WW2 upgrade. Then I read in other places don’t waste your time on the stock turbo, and if for no other reason the 38R in a stocker is great for longevity.

I don’t plan on getting rid of my truck so I don’t mind the investment, but if the stock turbo is good enough for tow tunes, and small single shot injectors I would like to leave good enough alone. I can’t seem to find a definitive answer and would like to be a little more educated before I start pulling it apart and at least have a plan. As far as my exhaust leak, it doesn’t seem terrible yet but I really don’t have the experience to know how much boost I’m lacking. I don’t see much boost unless I get into some hills or really step on it! Then I can bring it up to 16-18 pretty easy. I have never really just “stood on it” to see what max boost I can get. Just running empty my EGT’s stay around 600 when maintaining 55 mph 1750 rpm and when pulling the boat and trailer on the Interstate at 70 mph the EGT’s aren’t over 800 IIRC (except when getting into it to pass and then goes right back to the constant EGT) I’m sure there’s more involved but any insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Finally arrived at an answer after lots of searching with these 3 articles that all tie together.




 

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Hope you got a good answer out of those. I just recently did the 360 rebuild with a billet wheel. Spend the money to get the whole assembly balanced. I also put the turbomaster wastegate controller on it. On my test runs to dial in the wastegate, I was able to peg my 30 psi boost gauge. My breaking point against the 38R is it isn’t easily rebuilt.


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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks RT. Yes, I’m staying with the stock turbo.Doing the 360* and wheel upgrade. I have already located a shop 1 hour from home to do the balance work, they came highly recommended from a couple performance shops in my local area. After reviewing the information I am confident that with the HP gain of mods, and a mild tune I’ll still be within the max HP of my stock turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Spend the money to get the whole assembly balanced. I also put the turbomaster wastegate controller on it.
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I remembered your previous post and it was what prompted me to look for a shop to balance the turbo. (y) Thanks for mentioning the turbo master waste gate controller - I’m reading up on that now.
 

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I remembered your previous post and it was what prompted me to look for a shop to balance the turbo. (y) Thanks for mentioning the turbo master waste gate controller - I’m reading up on that now.
You should look into doing the KC balanced assembly. If you are going to rebuild with 360 kit and get local guy to balance, then just buy this. You get both of those plus the updated turbine wheel. This is about the best a stock turbo can do these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You should look into doing the KC balanced assembly. If you are going to rebuild with 360 kit and get local guy to balance, then just buy this. You get both of those plus the updated turbine wheel. This is about the best a stock turbo can do these days.
I’ll take a look, any idea how this wheel from KC compareS to the WW2?
 
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