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If it is a 4" turbo back exhaust I would pull the motor and get a real big hammer. If you are putting in a 3" downpipe there are a coupe of ways to do it. One is to cut slots in the pinch weld and then pry it back with a pry bar, the other is to get a porta-power from a rental shop and us it to move the pinch weld. When you think that you have enough room, get a little more. It took me a while to put in a 3" but I have a 1/4" clearance between the downpipe and fire wall.

Jim
 

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everyone always talks about pulling the motor out of these beasts is it realy actualy that simple? ive pulled quite a few car motors and gas pickups all carbeurated and no wireing to realy worry about but not a diesel but everyone on here talks about it like its second nature and most of the engines i pulled took hours to take out/reinstall but for something as easy as a porta power and block of wood wouldnt the porta powers price and later on uses be more efficent then pulling the engine to bend a peice of steel? kinda like to know this since this summer i plan on pulling the engine and i have a very small leak on the front main and none visual on rear main but ied like to put new in both plus make it easier to fix my small exhaust leaks pre turbo since with my adj resister off i can only make 15lbs stock but with it on i can make 30-32 with DIY stage ones in it also going to drill the fuel galley plugs out a little more for better flow and put all new rubber but getting off track from this topic just want info on pulling motor how long out/in with 2 people decently proficent in engine pulling...and about how much does the engine weigh so i know if my engine puller can handle it
 

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The engine weighs right around 1000lbs dry. I don't have a garage, so when I pulled mine it was in the back yard, on a slight slope with a plywood workfloor. Except for the actual lift I was able to do the entire removal by myself. Having never done this before, it took me about a week of working in the evenings after school, but I also took pictures and double checked every little thing. Reinstalling it on the slope was no picnic either. It took two of us about 3 hours to get everything to line up right to where the transmission and engine mounts would bolt up.

I found DzlJims guide to be pretty handy. I

I also found that although my engine stand was "rated" at 1500lbs, it had a little too much wiggle for my comfort. So up until I removed the crank I kept a block of wood under the crank pulley to help steady it up.

-RD
 

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well thats a 3-4 day job ;> im sure this guy kinda wants it done in...1-2 if not hours. I did my 3in downpipe 2 peice in about 2.5 hrs with porta power using the duckbill and a block of wood and what took me the longest was getting the old DP out....thats a form of hell i never want to have again.. then stuck top peice in clamped to the turbo looked at what adjustments were needed to seam got the duck bill in between transmission and seam and pumped away granted this will cause a headache if ur not carefull ur not setting the duckbill on a flat surface and it can slip and AND YES ur head will be in the way ;> after that i grabbed my hard hat in the truck for work and u guessed it had to hit that 4 more times instead of my skull but about 40 min in crunching mode had a good fit for the 3inch and its been on for 2mos no rattles..... my worse problem cost me 3days in what could have taken me 6 hrs when i did my DIY stage ones i started at about 8pm got them in by 2am but couldnt get it to run period....well when u put the injectors in...make sure the copper gasket doesnt fall between the injector and the injector houseing ;> it wont work i guarentee it... and i never noticed in pulling all injectors 8 times that was my problem but grabbed one of the old coppers cleaned it up threw it on since i bent the new one into a sort of curved L threw em all back in deoiled/fuels the cylinders put the gp's back in and BOOM it lived
 
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