running 80/20d2 right now as a test but will go back to 85/15rug. Couldn't give an accurate assessment as I had other problems. Generally would run a D2/Ocean Foam 1/2 tank every 5 tanks or so, but like I said I had other problems.
Cool so seafoam doesn't cause funky sludging when mixed with oil or anything? What additives are safe to mix without causing stuff to react weird? Was it the white bottle power service that people have had problems with?
I have a dual fuel filter head and filters I am going to run soon. Ive heard that the first few tanks of WMO tend to clear any/all junk in the tank out. The new filters are 13 and 10 micron (I wanted a bigger spread, but the thread size was the limiting factor), and my current filter is 25 micron. I'd rather clog my current filter with the tank-junk than my new/expensive filters. Only thing that bothers me is the 25 micron of this filter.......it will let A LOT of the junk through to the IP..........so should I wipe the tears and just clog a few expensive new filters?
25 micron seems coarse for an on board filter. I thought old school filters were in the 5 - 15 micron range.
Biodiesel will clean the vehicles' tank but I hadn't heard that about wmo doing it.. Much might depend on the wmo oil type and what thinner is used.
I'd be getting the fuel really, really well scrubbed before offering it anywhere near the vehicle tank. In my case I filter down to 1 micron and the van has a 10 micron filter. Therefore vans filter is not doing much, more of a safety thing.
I agree, 25 I think is insufficient (though that is at 99% efficiency). Are there contaminants that can be in WMO (or any dirty fuel) that the centrifuge won't pull out because of similar specific gravity/weight to WMO?
I guess what I'm asking is, could certain dust particles etc be light enough to not be pulled out by the centrifuge?
Thank you all for your patience and responses.
If contaminants weigh more than the oil, then you can trap them by gravity. Carbon won't separate completely so you'd be stuck with that unless you distill. Fuels with lots of free carbon are likely to burn with increasingly more soot residue.
Thanks. Putting an ISSPRO mechanical fuel press. gauge on, 2 questions.
1. The gauge has a snubber in it, but will that be enough to dampen the pressure spikes from my piston lift pump? I was going to plumb in a needle valve, so that may resolve any remaining needle bounce.
2. I have 1/8" black nylon boost tubing I wanted to use, and the chemical charts said it can hold up to fuels/oils. Can I safely use it?
I wouldn't run nylon as a permanent gauge tube. Should the line ever split, there'd be high pressure diesel everywhere in no time. I run a gauge with hydraulic type of hose however I'm thinking of taking it off. Gauges are great when there's problems and you need to diagnose.
Over the years of running alternative diesel any problems have almost always come down to the same thing. Trying to run diesel that is too heavy and can't pass through the filter. Otherwise earlier on, I was trying to run diesel that was plugging the filter. Either way the problem was not enough diesel flow to the IP.
You'll see the effect of fuel starvation on the gauge, gyrating the needle with the IP desperately trying to get its' full quota of fuel.
The point is to keep the diesel thin so it will pass through the filter and clean so it doesn't plug the filter. Why it took so long for me to learn is a mystery. Sometimes you have to try stuff I suppose.!
A vacuum gauge measuring the effective restrictiveness of the filter element is equally handy for diagnosis.
Hope this helps.