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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, been reading various diesel forums for a while now since I picked up my '99 F250 7.3 auto. Started mixing my own fuel recently and I thought I'd share what I've learned and ask some questions.

I've been running about 2/3 WMO to 1/3 Diesel since it warmed up (temps of at least 40F). I started at 1/3, then half and half, now 2/3. I'm filtering the WMO through a "seamless tube" filter bag that I got from ebay, the manufacturer builds them for dust filtration and says they will filter 99% at 1/10th of a micron. The stuff that comes out seems pretty clean. Filter bags I've been using are about 4 feet long and 6" in diameter. They have a 6" dia ring at the top that will hold them in place if you stuff the rest of it into a 55 gal drum, so that's what I've been doing. I've got a funnel on top of that and a 190 micron paint filter to take out any big chunks in the funnel.

My first WMO mixture made about 35 gal. I'd say 30 gal was WMO with 5 gal of misc. other chemicals thrown in - some stale gas, some ATF, some lighter fluid, just some random crap that I wanted to get rid of and I figured would burn anyhow, and help thin it. I threw a magnet in the drum too just for fun. I went fishing for it and didn't find anything on it at all, it was perfectly clean. I've put about 50 gals through the first filter bag and it still hasn't clogged, and it's probably washable to boot. 3 were 5 bucks on ebay.

I have been pumping it out of the barrel with a high pressure car fuel pump. It pumps the oil mix very slowly despite me thinning it some. Like about 5 gal/hour. I just put it to work and go do something else while it's pumping.

I have noticed some changes in the vehicle... the engine runs quieter, starts about the same as before, and my exhaust tip is grey. No smoke ever, not even on startup, which is strange because on straight diesel it would smoke on startup because my glowplugs don't work.

I've been trying to think of ways to run WMO straight or in very high percentages. I'm thinking of thinning it with 10-20% gasoline since (around here anyways) it's WAY cheaper than kerosene. Stale gas is free and I always seem to have a supply of that from cars I junk. I'm getting the WMO for free and with a limitless supply, so eliminating the non-WMO portion of my fuel will cut costs down to almost nothing. I may even buy a diesel generator for the house. Anyone have any experience with removing the diesel portion?
 

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Hi Terr and WELCOME to the board.
First, edit your CP to tell everybody what state you are in !
I run mu 96 on MO that I have filtered thru a PH8 and then a whole house water filter. This gives me a 5 micron safety. I drive the oil thru my filters with an oil pump from an S10 motor.
My first batch was gravity filtered but it was very slow so I built the pump.
I have run it straight but now I'm running about 10-20% diesel fuel in the oil.
During spring, summer and fall, I disconnect my glow plug relay and the truck starts well whit no GPs, even on straight MO. However, when it's cold, you have to have GPs warming up the cylinders. Check the current draw to verify your plugs are working. If they aren't, you'll have trouble starting when it's cold. I know on that one. I had 6 plugs that were bad and the truck simply would not start until I replaced them. I did all 8 at the same time. (Each plug will draw 10 - 20 amps)
I'd run hydraulic oil if I could find it too. I see nothing wrong with using anything to cut the MO, as long as it burns, however, I'd steer clear of brake fluid. It tends to attack seals and paint.

RoGrrr
 
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I just made a 140 mile trip on the 15.6k mod. I never went over 55 mph and used cruise so I could be sure of the speed. I traveled through 3 small towns of 35, 45 mph so I would guess that 95 % at 55 mph. Got 20 mpg on the trip, 15.6k mod definately seat of the pants difference. Well worth the $6 dollars for the resistors. Also I am running 80 % wmo to 20 % diesel. My truck in stock except for the 15.6k mod and removed cat and muffler. 1997 F-350 XLT AUTO PSD 4X4. Todays temp is 73 degrees, but when I left it was 41 degrees.(using c00nhunerjoe's mod), THANKS

RoGrrr, what are you thinning with ?
 

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I've been trying to think of ways to run WMO straight or in very high percentages.
I don't know where the 'try' comes in. I pump oil into my tank until the needle reads full. Nothing to it.

I just filled up this afternoon and have another 50 gallons laying around that will be my next two tanks of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That makes me happy to hear!

I've been running higher and higher percentages in my truck but I assumed that running it straight probably wouldn't work because of how much thicker WMO is compared to diesel.
 

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I've been running wmo and wvo... I recently purchased a oil filter conversion kit from napa for $37 (part# 4759) and pair of large volume filters, the pair for $27 (part# 1859) 5 or 10 micron filtering. The filters are 5 inches x about 12 inches.
 

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I've been running wmo and wvo... I recently purchased a oil filter conversion kit from napa for $37 (part# 4759) and pair of large volume filters, the pair for $27 (part# 1859) 5 or 10 micron filtering. The filters are 5 inches x about 12 inches.


Hello, will you post a picture of the above?

Thanks....so close to using WMO
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I made a new, better setup to suit my needs... it's probably not the final design but it's working for now.

I bought a 275 gal bulk liquid storage tote that I set up on 3 pallets. I'm pumping oil slowly through my filter setup into it from the 55 gal drum I was using for "clean" oil before. The 275 gal tote has a valve and a spigot at the bottom that I can easily and quickly pour out of.



I've been running about 90-95% WMO/5-10% stale gasoline in my truck for 2 tanks now (I have driven lots the last few weeks).
Noticed the following:

Exhaust smells terrible.
Diesel noises are almost completely gone.. it doesn't sound like a 7.3 anymore.
Smokes somewhat at full throttle till the turbo is spooled, just like before, but the smoke is grey instead of black.
exhaust tip is super grey, it looks like I sprayed it with primer.
Truck smokes at cruise a VERY tiny bit if you are looking for it, but it's not noticible if you aren't.
Full-throttle power seems to be about the same as on diesel, and slightly less than when I was mixing it 50/50.
Whatever electric fuel pump turns on when you turn the key on is running slower than it used to, likely due to the much thicker fuel mixture.
Cold startups seem easier than they used to be and the truck never smokes on startup now. When I was running straight diesel it would put a cloud of white smoke out during initial startup.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Running pretty much straight WMO this tank (about 95% WMO or more).. Truck has less full throttle power and EGT's at full throttle are much lower (only in the 700's). Still has lots of get up and go but above 2500RPM there's nothing. I think it's too thick and my pumps aren't keeping up. I may have to mix in some diesel or gasoline this tank to get it working better. I'll try throwing 5 bucks worth of gasoline in and see if that helps.
This tank's oil came from truck oil changes, used 15w40 - it's a thicker mixture than I was using before, and I have a feeling that that's what the problem is.
 

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Anyone ever have a problem with unpure motor oil? Gonna filter it for particulate matter, but worry about other fluids such as power steering fluid, brake fluid, or some other fluid that was added to the oil. Shouldn't be there, but you never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
hydraulic oil, ATF, gasoline, lighter fluid, kerosene, gas line anti freeze and methanol have all gone through my truck in small amounts (hydraulic fluid in larger amounts) and haven't caused any trouble.


I forgot to update but after my last post I put about 15 bucks of gas in to a nearly full tank (probably 32 gals to the 3-4 gals of gas I added) and after driving for 10-15 miles it improved a ton.

my truck smokes a bit at idle with this mixture but it's hardly noticible, looks almost like it has leaking valve seals or something. and that's a nearly 90% mix of WMO.


This tank of oil was mostly from car oil changes and I'm running it again at 90%+ - I had some diesel in the tank because I ran out of oil, but the gas light was on so there wasn't much. Some gasoline was mixed in too, probably a few gallons of stale gas from an old van I scrapped.
It's working perfectly, plenty of power and no issues. I love how fast this truck is, even towing... I'll never tow with a gas truck again!
 

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Very welcoming news as u folks had been running the Used MO, U ATF and whatever u can find.

I was running UVO , filtered down to 10 mic and it was a disaster on my truck, it screwed up the inj pump in my 88 7.3 anyways i filtered down to 1 mic now and seems to be OK.
A Trans tech told me he ran 100% filt ATF in his 300sd ( 81 or so ) 126 body, he seems to be OK he had been doing it for last 2 yrs.

A MArine mech told me , it can be bad to mix with W Veg oil, MO, ATF and it can cath a bug ( bacteria ) so he advised me to buy the diesel fungicide. He said in his ocean going bots/ ships they all used that CIDE, because mixing fuel from various ports can be deadly the bugs can plug up your filter in no time,
anyways everybody is entitle to his opinion.
Thanks for the wealth of useful info.
 

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... it can be bad to mix with W Veg oil, MO, ATF and it can cath a bug ( bacteria ) so he advised me to buy the diesel fungicide. He said in his ocean going bots/ ships they all used that CIDE, because mixing fuel from various ports can be deadly the bugs can plug up your filter in no time ...
It's not the mixing of various oils that increases susceptibility to bacterial contamination; it's the water which so frequently tags along. Bacteria live in the water and eat hydrocarbons. Vegetable oils are particularly bad for bringing water with them into your fuel system.

ITOPF - About Marine Spills - About Vegetable Spills
 

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I purchased a diesel hydrometer and mix wmo and gasoline using ratios that result in the same density/viscosity as regular diesel. I used regular diesel fuel as a control to ensure accurate mixing as well. I also filter my fuel through a plastic strainer purchased online then further decontaminate it via centrifuge.
 

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I purchased a diesel hydrometer and mix wmo and gasoline using ratios that result in the same density/viscosity as regular diesel. I used regular diesel fuel as a control to ensure accurate mixing as well. I also filter my fuel through a plastic strainer purchased online then further decontaminate it via centrifuge.
You might find better forums for your topic...responses take about 8 years or so here.

😉
 
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