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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New Problem. The other day my 97 F250 started cranking slowly and the voltmeter took quite awhile to get up to its normal position (between the R and M of NORMAL) went to a parts store and had the batteries tested and they were fine but the alternator tested bad. Replaced the alternator and now the volt meter jumps up to the L of NORMAL..........Right after i replaced the alternator I was just letting the truck idle awhile and it started running badly coughed a few times then set a "check engine" light and smoothed out again. I shut it off, then awhile later went back out, fired it up and it was fine and no "check engine" light ... Last night I left the store put the truck in reverse and it starts chugging and coughing, put in in neutral and it smoothed out and I drove it home and it was ok. Any thoughts.....
Jeff
 

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You need to get the code read which means a trip to the dealer or a shop that can read Fords codes. The majority of parts stores can not read them on our trucks.
 

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Where are you located?
If somebody near you has the program as described, they could help you out.
 

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Before you start buying & paying...



Try checking things that you can do at home for pennies, or free. Are the battery terminals GOOD (in EVERY way)?



Are the heavy cables' terminals all clean & tight? If you haven't seen them in a few years (or EVER), then you need to pull them all up into the light where you can run a wire brush across them (both sides of each), AND those points on the block & frame, AND each of their bolts.

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You'll probably be shocked (pun intended) at how much better everything electrical on the truck starts working.

Same question about the ALTERNATOR mounting points - did you clean them all while changing the alternator?

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Yes, the special ELECTRICAL grease shown in several of those photos makes your cleaning work last longer (probably longer than you'll own the truck), so as expensive & rare as it is, it's worth buying a tube. Don't waste your money (for THIS application) on DIelectric grease, or thermal, or PTFE, or chassis, or Lithium... Certainly not that greasy red snot marketed for battery posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything is clean at the batteries. I did not use the grease between the alternator and mounts. I was thinking that I might have a CPS going bad or fuel issue (I do have a fuel leak that must started)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What type of code reader do I need for my 97? I have an obd2 reader that plugs into the port under my dash but it doesn't power up. I read that ford used obd1 on f250's until the 99 super duty came out but the plug is different
 

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There was a TSB about early OBD-II ports sharing the cigar lighter fuse, so check all the fuses first. That TSB also detailed how to transfer the OBD-II power to a new fuse, so see if you can dig up its number & the full text. It's one of the few (for these trucks) that I don't have yet. But this photo album shows how to add fuses in general:



And you can find your truck's wiring here:

Search Wiring Diagrams
 

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If the reader doesn't power up check the fuses in the cab. The OBD II port is on the same fuse as the power port and cigarette lighter. Other than that owners are using AutoEnginuity or a SnapOn M2500 with the Ford package. Some have found a cheaper route using a Torque app for Android. There is a member that has a AutoEnginuity package for sale down in the "Electrical Accessories" For Sale forum for a good price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know the fuse to my power outlet is good because I use it to chagre my phone/GPS ... my truck is a late 97 built after October 97 maybe it has its own fuse? I will look in the book tomorrow, Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have not had any more trouble with the truck and still haven't gotten the codes checked but I did find the source of my oil leak. It is coming out of the allen head plug in the front of the drivers side head. Which I was told could cause low pressure on that side effecting performance slightly.
 
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