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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, sorry if this is a common topic but I can't seem to find exact info on my problem.

Truck is a 1993 Ford F250 7.3 N/A, 4x4, 5 speed, alil over 130K. I just got the truck tonight off a buddy who only owned it about a week so I don't know much history on it other than this problem is why I got it lol. When you start the truck it is terrible to start, usually won't. Once its fired up it runs great, no problems at all. When you first shut the engine down you can restart it fine.. usually fires right up after the motor turns over 2 or 3 times. Let it sit for about 30 minutes and you can crank the batteries dead and it wont start. WTS light comes on and stays on for a few seconds, longer if its chilly out. When it wont start you can pop start it without a single problem. I know nearly nothing about diesel trucks so the more info I can get the better. Only thing I know about the truck is it has a dump bed and the wiring for the hydraulic system was grounded out (I think) because when it was hooked up the pos terminal on the second battery would get hot! So hot it actually melted some. After unhooking the hydraulics its ok but still have trouble starting the truck unless I pop start it. I don't think its a fuel problem from what I've read maybe my glow plugs are messed up in some way. One thing I wonder is am I supposed to hook the batteries up for 12v or 24v? Ive been told most diesels run off a 24v system but I've been hooking pos to pos and neg to neg. Im not entirely sure where to begin because like I said I have never had a diesel. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the Diesel Stop.


12V for your truck. Pos to Pos.

These engines need 2 good batteries to turn the starter fast enough on a cold start. If the WTS light isn't on for about 14 seconds on a cold start, then you probably have one or more bad ones.

Do NOT use Autolite. You may have drain back issues. Search the IDI forum for "drain back", it's been discussed too many times to count.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice. I noticed now that my truck is doing something weird, it never did this before at least not that I noticed but when I turn the switch on, after the WTS light goes out my amp gauge starts Jumping around and I hear a like... clicking noise under the hood. When I first turn the switch on I hear a whining noise and then a click and the amp gauge jumps up to about where it runs when im driving then another click and the whine starts back and the Guage drops down to right above the lowest mark. What could cause this? Is the whining something to do with the glow plugs? I don't have the funds to replace my batteries right now but I have a ton of terminals so I think im gonna try switching out terminals and see if it helps at all. Also thinking about switching out my serpentine belt because I can hear it slipping sometimes.
 

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i run into this problem often with most of my friends diesels. fuel lift pump. it works but just enough to allow some leak down and a tiny bit of air intrusion. unless someone bypassed it and added a electrical lift pump. which you can do. but i dont suggest it. i would try replacing the lift pump and then bleeding the air from the fuel filter and injection tubes at the nozzles.

take a good look at the weep holes on the lift pump . one will require an inspection mirror. when you have a blown diaphram you find significant amount fuel in the crankcase. but if its about ready to go you find some wetness around the weep holes. i personally went thru this about 8 weeks ago with my 93. if you know what you are doing it takes about 1 hour to do, with another person helping. if its just you get a remote push button and hook it up to the starter. i hope this helps.
 

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You'd be wise to take Chuckster's advice above and start there. Here's some information from another complaint like yours:
For fast starting, the fuel/starting system has to be in perfect condition from A to Z. The MANY sources of air intake and fuel leaks in the fuel drainback system has to be eliminated. Batteries have to be charged up and good. Cables have to have good clean and tight connections. The starter itself has to be in A-1 shape, these engines have to turn over at a decent RPM for a fast start. For instance, not bragging at all, but my truck had sat for 2 1/2 weeks and when I needed it the other day it started in two seconds (counting off the one thousand one, one thousand two method). It always lets me know when I've developed another drainback air leak by much longer cranking.
Air/fuel leaks in the drainback system and/or a starter circuit problem are way more common than the transfer (lift) pump giving out. The transfer pumps are nothing but an old Carter used on all the old Ford, Chev, IH and other gas engines, generally they last forever.
 
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