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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone you've probably heard this before.

It's a '08 stock 450 CC, job #3. 70K I have had 0 problems with this truck. We pull a horse trailer with 4 big horses in there. Truck is now making a very loud roar/whine under heavy acceleration in the low gears without loss of power per my wife. Normal sound at cruising speed. When I gun the engine in PARK sounds normal, turbo gauge doesn't budge. I heard it from about a 1/4 mile away when they were coming home yesterday.

There are no codes I could pull from the engine or transmission.
The turbo hoses are all intact.
I noticed a coolant leak on the drivers side seeming to come from the bottom of the degas bottle area, it was about 3/4 gal low on coolant (bottle was empty). The fuel cooler is full.
I could not duplicate the sound by pulling the trailer with the brakes on, the turbo doesn't seem to be over pressuring on the dash gauge.
Gonna bring it somewhere tomorrow, any thoughts! TIA

Jeff
 

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the fan.... sounds like a semi in low gear...

have you ever checked out a fans design? the clutch part? it's pretty slick... these things have that fluid/hydraulic engagement clutch, and they have an electric engagement... the fluid part sometimes gets stuck, but will free up after a while... or not... but they sure roar when they engage, especially at low speeds.... and, there is ~some~ loss of power due to the parasitic nature of devices operated on the front side of the crank- but these diesels hardly notice it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the fan.... sounds like a semi in low gear...

have you ever checked out a fans design? the clutch part? it's pretty slick... these things have that fluid/hydraulic engagement clutch, and they have an electric engagement... the fluid part sometimes gets stuck, but will free up after a while... or not... but they sure roar when they engage, especially at low speeds.... and, there is ~some~ loss of power due to the parasitic nature of devices operated on the front side of the crank- but these diesels hardly notice it.
Thanks, sounds plausible, it is a fan-like (jet size) sound and it probably only starts when the truck is well warmed up because I couldn't duplicate it. How do they check it, or just replace it and see what happens? So the coolant leak might just be a coincidence and not part of the noise problem? Thanks
 

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honestly, I would just watch it... My fan was engaged this morning when I started the truck, but it went away after a few minutes... I think what happens is the fluid drains down to one of the locks after the truck has been sitting a while, and it engages it, until centrifugal force re-distributes it.

I forgot about your coolant comment in the first post... that is a scary place to have a leak, and it sounds like a considerable leak at that to have an empty bottle... if I were you, I would do this before trying to start it again:

crawl up under the truck, between the drivers front wheel and the block.. loosen the two flange bolts that lead to your EGR coolers... after that, jam (carefully as not to harm the metal gasket) a screwdriver in between the two surface and pry it slightly apart... if ANYTHING DRIPS out of there, chances are you have a ruptured EGR cooler. While driving, it isn't that apparent except for white smoke... when starting, it's asking for hydro-lock, which can/will destroy an engine, and your problems just escalated on a exponential scale.

if it doesn't drip, tighten it back up and look at the fittings from the degas, and there are a few, to the various other places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
honestly, I would just watch it... My fan was engaged this morning when I started the truck, but it went away after a few minutes... I think what happens is the fluid drains down to one of the locks after the truck has been sitting a while, and it engages it, until centrifugal force re-distributes it.

I forgot about your coolant comment in the first post... that is a scary place to have a leak, and it sounds like a considerable leak at that to have an empty bottle... if I were you, I would do this before trying to start it again:

crawl up under the truck, between the drivers front wheel and the block.. loosen the two flange bolts that lead to your EGR coolers... after that, jam (carefully as not to harm the metal gasket) a screwdriver in between the two surface and pry it slightly apart... if ANYTHING DRIPS out of there, chances are you have a ruptured EGR cooler. While driving, it isn't that apparent except for white smoke... when starting, it's asking for hydro-lock, which can/will destroy an engine, and your problems just escalated on a exponential scale.

if it doesn't drip, tighten it back up and look at the fittings from the degas, and there are a few, to the various other places.
Thanks I'll take a look, it might be beyond what I'm comfortable doing but it can't hurt to look! If it is leaking is a delete kit a good option?
 

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a delete kit is a good idea anyway... :)

but, that requires a tune... and the costs go up from there...

if you're happy with your truck and you don't intend on keeping it a long time I wouldn't delete- it makes it a pita to reinstall before trading/selling...

what I would do is look on craigslist or somewhere similar to buy coolers someone deleted early- this is a very popular mod, so they are virtually everywhere.

if you do delete, your truck will be very happy, though, as temps decrease and cleaner air gets inducted... Personally, I used block plates and a tune that supports ignoring the EGR valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OKAY so it turned out to be the upper radiator hose leaking and I guess low coolant level. So they replaced the hose and told my wife the lower one would need it too. So I started reading up and found out my truck has the old style hoses. I ordered the 2 lower ones a hell of a lot cheaper than what my shop charged me for the upper and have started poking around the engine in anticipation of the job. I noticed an actual leak at the lower hose by the water pump, so that's why they said it would need to be replaced!! Why didn't they just do it while they had it and make more $$$.
So now my truck has been been running for 76000 miles on the hoses which are known to cause cavitation problems. Should I trade it in before the inevitable happens??
 

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For what it's worth, I have both updated hoses..... Sitting on a shelf in the garage... My original single oring hoses aren't leaking... But if you're dead serious about making it right, and if you intend on keeping the truck, do a proper flush with restore and restore+, install a coolant filter, and reinstall cat ec-1 coolant... It's the best hoat on the market and what you'll find in most big rigs including IH...
 

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For what it's worth, I have both updated hoses..... Sitting on a shelf in the garage... My original single oring hoses aren't leaking... But if you're dead serious about making it right, and if you intend on keeping the truck, do a proper flush with restore and restore+, install a coolant filter, and reinstall cat ec-1 coolant... It's the best hoat on the market and what you'll find in most big rigs including IH...
+1

I'd also add that if you like your truck then simply fix it. Its a lot cheaper to do the maintenance that buy another truck. Just do the math. You could replace all the hoses, thermostats, radiator and front cover and have a very solid cooling system for far far far less money than buying another truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
+1

I'd also add that if you like your truck then simply fix it. Its a lot cheaper to do the maintenance that buy another truck. Just do the math. You could replace all the hoses, thermostats, radiator and front cover and have a very solid cooling system for far far far less money than buying another truck.
That's good advice. I've seen the horror stories on the 6.7 forum and thats the last thing I need. I actually don't drive the truck that much, my wife LOVES it and pulls the horse trailer with it. If I traded for a 6.7 and it crapped out oh boy I'm in a heap o' trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Replaced the 2 lower hoses this evening. Took about 2 hours total, drain replace, refill. Next to assemble the products for the flush.
 

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Can the OP really just drain, replace and refill the coolant without a special vacuum pump to refill the coolant and avoid air in the system?
 

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Can the OP really just drain, replace and refill the coolant without a special vacuum pump to refill the coolant and avoid air in the system?
you absolutely 'can' just fill and walk away, but, air trapped in the system can take a long time to work its way out... not in terms of miles, but in terms of hundreds or thousands of miles...

air in the system causes temperature spikes and promotes cavitation, and it can allow the coolant to boil in local regions- which promotes cavitation when those tiny bubbles slap metal at what is basically supersonic speeds... they may as well be grains of sand or tiny bullets at that point... the damage that can be done is significant.

I scoffed at airlift tools until I used one... I flushed, cleaned, flushed, cleaned, flushed flushed flushed, added a filter set, added pure ec-1 coolant (I wanna say it was 14quarts?) and then topped with distilled water (another 14 quarts?) using the airlift tool- I left the new degas cap off while I started the truck, and let it run to 170* or so, (which is about as hot as it will get not moving)... I put the cap on and took it for a spin... upon return, I used a marker to mark the level of coolant in the bottle, and the precise temperature beside it... it hasn't budged in over a year. Airlift tools ROCK...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I used the airlift II tool. Works great, refills in a snap. Test drove today, with no load won't get warmer than 156.
 
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