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Discussion Starter #1
I have checked everything i could imagine, batteries, starter, harness and cables. It was fine then all of a 'nothing'.
Changed out two solnoids , had starter off 4 times, took to NAPA and had it checked, okay. Any suggestions?
Cleaned all cables and grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Installed 2 new solnoids, one on starter and one on fender apron.
After working on truck four days today it cranked?? Then now won't crank.checked continuity on sense wire from solnoid to switch, okay. Can anyone suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The truck is a 1999 and has a 6 speed manual transmission. I haecked the batteries earlier i just ve replaced the clutch switch a couple times and all seems okay with its function. When I traced the solnoid sense wire back to.the ingition switch it's continuity was good and in crank position the voltage was around 10v, that seems low shouldn't that be 12+ volts? I maybe next step is to.load test the batteries?? When i checked them earlier I just static checked (12.6v). It hasn't given any clues to dragging down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay folks you have never had any issues electrical or I am on the wrong forum.
I desperately need feedback or input from you to resolve no crank issues on my 1999 7.3l diesel, manual trans vehicle. I am the original owner of this truck and try to keep it in pretty good condition with proper maintenance. It just began to 'not crank' and start. It just clicks. The usual items batteries good, new solnoids
installed just for the heck of it. Cables appear fine, etc. It started 'once' yesterday after I re-installed the right side battery. Then will not crank on second try. IT HAS A DEAD SHORT! I just don't
know what to do to find it.
Yesterday evening I topped off the batteries. I checked the batteries about an hour later and.the were down about a half of a volt. This morning BOTH batteries were stone dead. I am getting closer still nothing is smoking (wires) and I couldn't find a hot cable, etc.
Help or tell me if I am on the wrong forum.?? Thanks.
 

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Sorry no one has replied... usually you get better responses... I would have posted this in engine and drive train. Glow plugs drop volts when you first hit key but still not low enough to not let it start. Did you load test batteries? I believe you will find they are toast or at least one of them is. Test both. Or disconnect, charge both fully and check them the next day while not hooked to truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Been recharging batteries and looking for dead short in harness and cables.
Hooked up 1 battery. Wasgoing to install other freshly charged battery. Decided to remove positive cable down to starter and check condition. Remember 1 battery was still connected. Hadn't touched any thing on starter end. Layed my hand on the starter and it was warm (hot) on housing. What does this mean? I disconected battery immediately.
 

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Take batterya to auto store and have them "load" tested. I had batteries that held a charge but had dying cell, under load, ie cranking truck it would fail. 1 bad cell on 1 battery will cause the other battery to drain quicker. I ended up replacing my starter and both batteries. Can someone jump start you? Not sure on hot starter, if u hadn't been trying to start it? Otherwise could be fried internally. If both batteries chk "good" under load test, put in and crank over, lmk
 

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Been recharging batteries and looking for dead short in harness and cables.
Hooked up 1 battery. Wasgoing to install other freshly charged battery. Decided to remove positive cable down to starter and check condition. Remember 1 battery was still connected. Hadn't touched any thing on starter end. Layed my hand on the starter and it was warm (hot) on housing. What does this mean? I disconected battery immediately.
If you hadn't been trying to crank it, a hot starter would tell me that there's a short in it. That would definitely discharge your batteries. I'd remove the starter and get it tested. I really think your problem is the starter.
 

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If you hadn't been trying to crank it, a hot starter would tell me that there's a short in it. That would definitely discharge your batteries. I'd remove the starter and get it tested. I really think your problem is the starter.
check fender mounted solenoid may not close enough to crank engine but not opening enough to stop current flow to starter
 

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check fender mounted solenoid may not close enough to crank engine but not opening enough to stop current flow to starter
Don't think the starter relay would be the problem. It only feeds power to the coil of the starter mounted solenoid. But its cheap enough to swap out for a test.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had the starter checkef at NAPA on their starter bench. He said the starter was good.
I replaced solnoids (fender apron and starter solnoid) I cleaned all the cable connections. Found wire broken (B+) on alternator. .that shouldn't affect starting.
Batteries passed load test. I may get a starter and just try it tomorrow just for ??
Which side of the fender apron solnoid should b +12 volts, key off? I have the rubber block with the +12 close to the firewall.
 

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just checked mine it is like yours 12v closes to fire wall Is your starter still getting hot when not trying to start truck key switch not on
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No heat found yet. This picture is 12v fender apron solnoid from the Ford Service Book. The right stud is 12v from battery. If i install this way I don't get power to the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How about a blown fuse? Couldn't find any blown fuses. I did install the new alternator. I always carry a spare in the camper.
 

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Not sure if it would work, but get someone in truck, push clutch in, only key on, not start, run jumper cable from battery straight to starter. Tap it to start and see if she turns over and how fast it spins. It isolates the starter. Worked on mine, by its an automatic
 
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