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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When putting the key in run position the dash lights, trailer brake controller, radio, etc all come one. When I turn the key to crank it the starter doesn't crank. I can feel the relays under the dash and in the drivers side engine compartment all click when trying to crank.

I've disconnected the yellow/blue wire on the passenger side of the engine bay and jumpered it to the + post with the key in the run position and still got nothing.

Voltage is 12.41 at the batteries

This has happened at least twice before in the last 2 months. Each time it seemed that disconnecting the batteries and allowing the PCM to clear resolved the issue. That hasn't worked this time and could have easily been a red herring.

Only code is P1000

Is it safe to say that the starter/solenoid is the issue or is there anything else I need to check next or should have already checked?
 

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Checked the voltage at the starter? If its getting power, and not turning that would be a clear indication.
 

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Your battery voltage is low. Fully charged new batteries run 12.7-12.8V. How old are the batteries and have they been load tested? I would be willing to bet you have at least one bad battery. My last two sets have only lasted 2.5 years. As far as the code, P1000 is the code for drive cycle not complete and will come up every time the PCM is disconnected or reset. It will clear itself once the PCM relearns, normally about twenty minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your battery voltage is low. Fully charged new batteries run 12.7-12.8V. How old are the batteries and have they been load tested? I would be willing to bet you have at least one bad battery. My last two sets have only lasted 2.5 years. As far as the code, P1000 is the code for drive cycle not complete and will come up every time the PCM is disconnected or reset. It will clear itself once the PCM relearns, normally about twenty minutes.
Batteries are about 18 months old. I've had the doors open while checking fuses and trying to get it to crank over the last couple of days and I'm assuming that would account for the drop to 12.41v. Wouldn't the starter/starter solenoid still attempt turn over with the voltage @ 12.41?

No load tests have been performed since they were installed.
 

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Not so much the voltage, but amperage that is needed. Low voltage is an indicator that there might be a battery issue. Try to read the voltage with the key on start. It would be a good idea to clean the terminals and put a battery charger on the truck for a full 24 hours at ten amps and try to crank it again. Then, whether it starts or not, have the batteries load tested. Walmart will do it at no charge. These trucks are notoriously hard on batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well it now gets weirder. Decided to have AAA tow it to the shop and have some diag done. Tried to start it last night with the same results, no crank. The tow truck driver hooks up to the front tow hook to pull it out of my parking spot, I put it in neutral and he pulls me forward about 15 feet. I decided to go ahead and try it one last time and sure as ****, fires right up!

I had previously tried it in park and neutral with no luck.
 

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hmmm, almost sounds like the starter gear was suck on the flywheel? I don't know, a long shot I guess. Does it continue to start now? Or maybe a bad connection at the solenoid that moving the truck temporarily fixed? Either way, i'd be pulling the starter and having it tested then replaced if necessary before it leaves you somewhere very inconvenient....and they aren't expensive compared to everything else on these trucks.

I'd say the neutral switch is suspect given you moved the shifter to load the truck but I'm pretty sure using the starter wire under the hood bypasses it...not positive tho
 
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