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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello- been reading here and working on my truck over a week now- My kids school starts tomorrow and I am about to panic because this is currently our only vehilce
Here is my situation-
2005 F250 6.0

Pulled all injectors looking for a water leak ( small amount of diesel in coolant) Had a "hot no start problem" the day I decided to tear it down-started and ran great until it warmed up- still ran great but if you shut it off it was a no start until oil cooled down

Also started seeing small amount of oil in coolant ( oil cooler)

So pulled the front cover and fixed leaking gaskets- then pulled intake and replaced the oil cooler.

While changing the oil cooler I decided to look at the HPOP concerning the "hot no start"

I removed the pump and changed the STC fitting on the back ( although the one that was in there looked fine)- then I changed the 2 o rings ( yellow and black)- sat the pump back in- started the 2 bolts on the STC fitting- then the 3 body bolts and torqued to specs..

Got everything back together and cranked- but really dragging starter down- turns out my LPOP was in a bind- finally the inner gear snapped- so I purchased a new LPOP and went to "pull a part" and pulled several covers off vehicles until I found one with no wear

Replaced the LPOP and covers- cranking now it fills the oil fills the oil filter body quickly and after about 20 seconds of cranking it registers just over half on the dash oil pressure gauge

I have the valve covers off and the ICP removed and I have been cranking for 30 seconds at a time for hours ( maybe 15-20 times) and still I am not getting ANY oil to my oil rails or ICP hole?

I realize now that I did not fill the HPOP with oil through the plug on top before reinstalling..

The ICP was replaced with a new one from FORD 1 month ago as a friends scan tool showed "ICP circuit open error- the truck was leaving me stranded then when pulling my boat- after changing that it was fine- drove it 1000 miles no problem. When I had the HPOP out I pulled the ICP and checked it- screen still new and clean

I was EXTREMELY careful in cleaning all the crud below the manifold before removing the oil cooler and HPOP- I am positive no crud got in- it was so clean you could eat off of it..

PLEASE if you have any suggestions please let me know this morning-I am about to pull the turbo ( again) and remove the cover on the pump to see whats going on but really dont know what to look for

Thank you
 

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Did you fill the oil cooler well before reassembly? It supplies the HPOP and takes about a quart of oil. I have never had to work on my oil cooler, but know that it supplies the HPOP and that proper assembly is critical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes- the problem turned out to be my workmanship.
At 5 in the morning I replaced the STC fitting on the HPOP and had it upside down-wont make that mistake again
Now I cannot get it to start because of a "Ficm No Sync" trying to solve that now
Thanks!
 

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Good Morning,
In reading your post, I am having a similar problem on my truck. Take in mind this is my first diesel and I really want to learn how to maintenance it on my own and I'm no mechanic by far.
I have an '06 6.0l F250. I haven't owned it long (a couple months). At first it cranked and ran fine every turn of the key, but now when it gets up to operating temperature and you shut it off it will not crank until it cools down. The engine will spin until the batteries die but just will not fire up. It doesn't show any codes except the EGR Delete. Before I start pouring parts into it and taking things apart, would anyone have a starting point?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Scan Gauge II

I am in the same situation- my best advice is to get a Scan Gauge II from Autozone for $159 and program it with the codes for FICM-ICP -IPR and SYNC and read your ICP- if its less than 500psi its not going to start. and indicates a high pressure oil leak or bad IPR. You will need a fitting to air up the high pressure oil system and listen for the leaks. I think its a M12.5X1.5- I know you can get it at places that sell/repair hydraulic hoses-I got mine at a local NAPA- anyways thats where you begin.
I could almost write a book on this after my last 2 weeks on my truck ( what a learning curve!) But instead of writing a book here I would suggest you go to youtube and see DieselTechRons videos- he covers all this in detail with no BS ( sadly he was killed in a car accident a couple months ago but what he has left behind continues to help all of us) Here is his YT page
https://www.youtube.com/user/DieselTechRon
There are also more on his personal website
DieselTechRon - Serving the Ford Diesel Community
Good luck man- this is REALLY frustrating I know
 

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I had the same problem. There is a ipr valve ( injection pressure regulator) screwed into the top of the hpop. Remove that ipr valve and there should be a tiny screen on the end of it that keeps any thing except oil from flow through that valve . If anything gets passed that screen, it can keep the ipr valve from seating closed, therefore your engine can't build oil pressure and causes a crank no start situation. If the screen is not on the ipr valve then you have to fish it out from the hole that the ipr valve was screwed into or its torn then Clean the ipr valve with some wd40 by poking a screwdriver and pushing that valve open and closed and spraying into the valve. Replace the screen. It must snap on to the ipr valve so it doesent fall off. Screw it back in, connect the connector back to it and it should start right up. Of course you will have to remove other components to get to the valve.
 

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Good Morning, Here's an update to my problem. I removed the IPR Valve, cleaned really good with WD40 and was extra careful reinstalling it. It started up as usual (when cold), took it for a test drive and it ran great as usual. I shut it down, waited about ten minutes and tried to start it back up and it does the same thing. Crank but no start. Sooo... I'm going to try the pressure test to see if it is an injector leak. If anyone thinks of anything else it could be, please let me know. My question is : Could it be the HPOP itself?
 

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jw75, here is the best place to start. 6.0L ICP System Leaks - DTS Articles - Articles - Articles - DTS The HPOP Discharge Fitting also known as the STC fitting is the number one culprit in HPO leaks. They all fail eventually. The only way to know if the STC fitting in your truck is you have done it or had it done, it is shown as being replaced on an Oasis report, or you visually check which requires removal of the turbocharger, pedestal, and HPOP cover. There is a newer single piece design which eliminates this issue. It can be found on Amazon for $48, Ford part number 4C3Z-9B246-F. The other common culprit are the stand-pipes and dummy plugs in the upper oil rail.
 

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ritschner, I appreciate that. If it were you, would it be best to replace the stand pipes and dummy plugs while I'm in there doing the STC upgrade? Or can the stand pipes and dummy plugs just be cleaned and put back? Also, will any of this require specialty tools?
 

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Replace them too. The new design has Teflon back up rings behind the o rings to support them against the pressure.
 

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Replace them too. The new design has Teflon back up rings behind the o rings to support them against the pressure.
Ditto, the plus is that you can do it in stages. I started with the STC fitting which was the culprit in mine. While doing the fitting I serviced the turbo since it had to come out anyway (you can find the procedure in the link I posted or on YouTube). I then did the stand-pipes a few days later. The plus doing it that way is it takes a while to get the truck to start after each procedure. If doing both at once you will end up with a really long cranking period. Also the book time is 4.9 hours for the STV fitting plus additional time to clean the turbo. The stand-pipes are 4 hours. The STC fitting comes with the alignment tool, but you will probably need to get the removal tool for the standpipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine ended up being the new (30 day old) IPR which everyone mentioned ( big thank you to all of you!) The screen was totally caved in anmd when i put 12v to it-it would not activate-took it back to Ford under warranty and got a new one- then put air to the ICP fitting and applied 12v for like 3 seconds and all my "air leaks" stopped ( big relief)- reassembeled and it kicked right off- while driving like I stole it to get the air out I put the pedal down and once saw 3800 psi on the ICP which had me concerned thinking it was too high...but its runni8ng good again now- except for an oil leak Ill post in a new thread- thanks to all of you!
 

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Its not too high.
 
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