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Hmmm... I can tell you that after I do a KAM reset, when the VGT relearn process starts when idling, I can hear the exhaust note go deep and throaty (I have MBRP dual exhaust) when the SCII gauge reads VGT 15... As the VGT reading climbs to 85, the exhaust note goes to a higher pitch and I then hear the turbo whistle... Isn't there a way I can demand VGT % in AE and monitor demanded vs. actual VGT...? I can't seem to find where to do that test in AE... I'm not doubting your diagnosis, just want to be sure before I tear the turbo off again and dig into the vanes on a turbo that is less than a year old... I have a remote oil cooler and coolant filter, and taking the turbo off again is not as straight forward as the stock setup is... Also, I ran a bottle of Archoil AR6400 through the engine/turbo and there's no improvement.... The turbo is a Garrett PowerMax...
 

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Steve: It is in a little pull down menu in the lower left corner. I cannot remember exactly which screen it is accessed from. There is a whole list of things you can turn on and off including individual injectors, fan , VGT, etc. I hope that helps.
 

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Unfortunately there is no feedback on the VGT itself, to have one would require a sensor on the mechanical portion of the VGT, either the piston, cam, unison ring, or vanes. I am trying to attach a pdf file on VGT diagnostics and turbo operation. Hope it helps.
 

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It is very possible that I am wrong on the VGT. I also went back and read where you had replaced the bellows on the passenger side up-pipe. You may need to check the up-pipe to turbo and EGR cooler. I believe the EGR flange requires a gasket and the turbo to up-pipe connection flange is a major culprit in low boost conditions. You can search YouTube and see just how many people have had issues with the turbo up-pipe connection.
 

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Thanks for the input... However, while I was trying to sort this all out (still), I broke a passenger side font axle u-joint bearing cup... Since I'm cutting firewood right now (offroad) I need 4wd working so repairing the u-joint became a priority... While I've done them before, and they usually are simple and straightforward, not this time... Most of the associated seals are toast, and so a simple u-joint job turned out to be a "replace-fest" as usual with this truck and it's been over a week now waiting for parts, etc... This "1 step forward, 3 steps back" is pretty typical for this truck's service life and so I've decided once I get past hunting season, I'm selling it and getting a 2nd 6.7... Just can't deal with this 6.0 anymore... I reached the "throwing good money after bad" point a long time ago with this truck and it's time to cut my losses and move on...
 

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Soooo, to make along story short(er), I never sold the F250 and am revisiting this whole issue, which remains to this day... I spent the summer replacing CMP sensors (2 failed, left me stranded deep in the Mountains once) and I now have a working FORD OEM CMP sensor that seems to work fine. The black smoke issue remains, and I have been reading a lot here and there on how to monitor EBP, MAP, MGP, VGT, etc. to narrow down where the issue is... This truck was flashed by Ford with the code that deletes the EBP and infers from the MAP instead as far as I understand... I am hoping for something other than a stuck Unison Ring/Turbo vanes as removing the turbo from this truck with the IPR remote Oil Cooler/IPR Remote Coolant Filter and subsequent additional hoses makes for a long day of wrenching...
 

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Just ran out to check EBP, VGT, MAP and ICP with KOEO and while MAP read what was expected, 10.2 (I'm at high elevation of 9,500'), and VGT and ICP =0, the EBP PID had no reading... I contribute that to the latest flash the PCM has... I then thought I'd fire the truck up, and voila, won't start again... It's been starting fine since the last time I changed the CMP sensor in early Fall... Changed the Scangauge II to SYN and FSYN and both are 0 when cranking... Looks like the CMP signal is bad AGAIN, or the pigtail I suppose... "1 step forward, and 3 steps back"...
 

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Have you changed the harness running to the CMP sensor?
 

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Have you changed the harness running to the CMP sensor?

Not yet, but I'm online now looking for the pigtail kit to do just that... I am now leaning towards the problem being the connector or harness as it's pretty hard to believe 3 CMP sensors (Ford OEM, Echelin, and now another FORD OEM) could all fail in the span of less than a year with only a few thousand miles on them... Question is, why does replacing the sensor always fix the issue (in the short term) when I do it..? In the process of replacing the sensors each time, I have cleaned the connector to degrease it, and inspected as best I can for broken wires, etc... Install the new sensor, plug in the connector, and it fires right up... But something else has to be going on at this point... Last sensor I replaced had only been in the truck for a few months before it started acting up... When I pulled it and tested it, it read 1 ohm resistance if I recall correctly... I tried to connect AE last night to look at the CKP, CMP and FICM Sync signals, but the laptop battery was dead, of course... I charged it and will go out in a few minutes to fire up AE and do some more data gathering...
 

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Fired up AE and pulled the DTC's. Found P132b (Turbo Boost Control) and that's it (this is what I was planning to work on until the CMP failed again)... No DTC for failed Cam Shaft Pos Sensor... Popped off the CMP connector, cleaned with Brake Cleaner, dried it off, applied Dielectric Grease (not to pins, just around the inside of the connector) re-assembled until it clicked, turned engine over....... Nothing... AE and SCII both show no FICM Sync and no Sync (CMP and CKP)... I did verify that I get RPM's when I crank so it's not the Crankshaft Pos Sensor... I bought the Camshaft Pos Sensor Pigtail repair kit and we'll see what happens when I get that installed in a few days... For what it's worth (not much) the 2 wires going into the CMP connector looks fine, no fraying, still intact... I'm gonna' be really p*ssed off if I go through all the hassle of rewiring the pigtail and it still doesn't fire, which would indicate it's another failed CMP sensor which is months old and has less than 1500 miles on it since install in the Fall...
 

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As posted in another thread, Ford advises against brake cleaner on electrical connections.

The P132b is probably a sticking turbo based on your other posts.

Regarding the no-sync issue, I have heard of an odd issue that a shorted injector coil can prevent sync without actually throwing an injector code. I understand that it is a pain to deal with, but if you can't find anything w/ the cam sensor / wiring, then it might be worth a look under the valve covers at the injector wiring.
 

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The P132b is probably a sticking turbo based on your other posts.

Regarding the no-sync issue, I have heard of an odd issue that a shorted injector coil can prevent sync without actually throwing an injector code.
UGH, don't really want to hear that...!

I will troubleshoot P132b when I get the CMP issue resolved. I'm aware it could be the VGT vanes/Unison Ring sticking but when I run a VGT Relearn, I can audibly hear the exhaust note change in synch with the VGT % going from 15% to 85% 6 times while the VGT Learn Cycle completes, then it settles at about 45 - 53 % at idle... No DTC's pop up after the VGT Learn Cycle until after driving for a bit. I'll check for exhaust leaks (again, already replaced the pass side Up-pipe in 2015, was working on it the day my APPENDIX BURST and put me in the Hospital for 19 days). The Garrett PowerMax Turbo was new in 2015 to replace the Industrial Injection Turbo that failed (thrust bearing). Days after I got it running well with the new PowerMax, the factory Intercooler blew and I eventually replaced it with a Mishimoto plus all new CAC tubes/boots. I would not be surprised to find the D side Y-pipe bellows cracked, and will test for that with the shop vac method taped to the exhaust pipe(s) to see if I hear air leaks... I will also R&R the EGR valve, and check/clean the EBP Sensor and Tube. I will check the MAF sensor and tube, and nipple on the intake manifold. I replaced the MAP sensor and checked the wiring harness in 2016. The PCM was replaced in 2015, and at the time had all updated flash's on it. The Injector harness was new in 2015 when I bulletproofed the engine, as were all 8 injectors, now Dipaco 4th generation injectors. The FICM is a 58 Volt Swamps Diesel unit and it appears to be marginally healthy. The Bosche AGM batteries were new in 5/2016 and are fully charged (12.7 V resting) and the Alt (DC Power 250 Amp) and wiring were all new in 2015 also.
The next step is to repair the CMP pigtail and see the results. If no-go, I'll replace the CMP again with another OEM if that's what it takes to get it running again... It's interesting to note that when the CMP sensor goes, it's fine 1 day, and the next it's done never to work again until replaced. No CMP code other than FICM Synch and Synch both= 0. There is nothing intermittent about the CMP signal failure. This next CMP (if it needs to be replaced) will be the 5th since 2004, and only 88,000 miles on the truck...
 

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Good to do the re-learn and listen. Hopefully it is just a leak, but sometimes those are a pain also.

Just as an fyi (you may already know this) - the vgt% is a commanded number. There is no feedback on actual position.

Edit - you probably have seen this also:

Was your engine hot and had idled for 5-10 minutes when you did the vgt re-learn?

 

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VGT cleaning guide attached (and note that brake clean is not a plastic safe cleaner)
 

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Also seem to recall an EGR code for you. The attached summaries are from Ford
 

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Got the pigtail kit and repaired that today, painstakingly unwrapping the tape, foil and wire from the pigtail. Unwrapped it well back into the main harness, probably 8 - 10 inches from where it meets the EBP Sensor wiring and takes a 90 degree turn down the main loom towards the PCM on the fenderwell. No signs whatsoever of any wire breakage, wear marks, etc... The pigtail looked fine. Soldered the wires making sure to match the original wiring orientation from the connector, shrink wrapped, re-wrapped the bare wire, re-wrapped the foil shielding, installed new 1/4" loom, re-taped loom all the way to the pigtail with Scotch 33+ tape... Turned the key, waited for glow plugs, tried to start, NO GO...! No CMP/CKP Synch, no FICM Synch.... Pulled the current CMP sensor and tested it along with the last 2 I kept from the last 2 CMP signal failures... With VOM, they tested 804 Ohms, 845 Ohms and 854 Ohms respectively... Not that it means much...


Ordering another FORD OEM CMP Sensor I guess at this point.. UN-B-FRICKIN'LIEVABLE...
 

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Some truly bizarre stuff going on now... I ordered another CMP sensor and am waiting for it, but until it arrives, I decided to test CMP circuit continuity after the pigtail repair job. I connected one pin of the pigtail to my VOM (hot lead), set the VOM to DC Volts, connected the VOM Ground to the battery ground, turned the key to the run position BUT DID NOT CRANK THE ENGINE, while the Glow Plugs were warming up, I got a loud POP from the exhaust pipe and some white smoke puffed out....! ***...? I'm baffled by that event...

I then tried to test each of the 3 failed Cam Sensors by using the old pigtail connector connected to each CMP. I hooked 1 wire from the CMP connector to Ground on the VOM, hooked the other wire to the hot lead, set the VOM to AC Volts, and waved a metal wratchet wrench by the end of the sensors magnet... The AC voltage setting showed no response. Switched to DC volts and get a wide range between .15 and 15.5 when moving a metal object back and forth in front of the magnet... The VOM doesn't react very fast, and is very inconsistent, so I'm really not convinced that test works very well...
 

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Received the Motorcraft Cam Sensor today and went out before the impending snowstorm and installed it. Tested it first, FWIW, ant it tests at 784 Ohms, which technically isn't to specs of between 800 and 1000 ohms... Installed the CMP sensor and the truck still won't fire. FICM Synch = 0 , CMP/CKP Synch = 0 still... Checked the FICM connectors, cleaned WITH ELECTRIC CONTACT CLEANER (not Brake fluid), reconnected, still won't fire. I get an RPM signal when cranking so the Crank Sensor should be good in theory. Checked oil level and it's fine, checked ICP, IPR when cranking and they look fine. Batteries are fully charged and sitting at 12.7 V. Checked the 3 connectors at the PCM on the fenderwell and they are tight and no signs of loom wear... I then decided to try to test the CMP Pigtail to see if I am getting any voltage at the pigtail when KOEO... Hard to tell to be honest, it's not a consistent signal... Hard to probe the pigtail pins at the connector they are so small and tight... Should I not be getting a 12V signal at the pigtail on 1 pin or the other when the VOM is grounded to the battery and I probe both pins with the VOM's positive lead...? It's about to start snowing any minute now... Such joy............................................................................................... Getting nowhere fast at this point...
 

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Figured out how to get my Positive probe on the pigtail pin(s) and with the Key on, I get .2 Volts DC on 1 pin and .13 Volts on the other at the pigtail connector. I disconnected all 3 of the PCM connectors, cleaned with Electrical contact cleaner, re-installed and nothing changed. I then ran AE again to see if any new codes showed up while cranking, here are the codes I have now...
CODE - CONDITION ( PROBABLE CAUSES)
P0603 - Internal Control module KAM error (open PCM pin, disconnected B+, faulty PCM)
P0670 - Glow Plug Control Circuit Malfunction (open/grounded circuit, failed GPCM, failed PCM)
U0306 - Software incompatible with FICM (PCM and FICM not originals)


Generic Powertrain codes
C2202 - Passenger side seat track position switch short to ground
P0201 - Injector Circuit malfunction, Cylinder 1 (Faulty cyl 1 injector, Wiring harness open or short, electrical connection in the harness or connector, failed PCM)


Sure are lots of codes with probable cause of a FAILED PCM.. It's an updated PCM purchased from Flagship One installed 6/2015 when I was bulletproofing the engine and I wanted all the updated PCM flash software in the truck... I still have the original PCM which I suppose I could put back in to see it the truck starts before I buy another...
 

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Flagship One has a lifetime warranty on their PCM/ECU's so I will send it back and get it tested. Before that, I'll swap in the original PCM and see if the truck starts, validating the problem is the PCM or not... I don't have the DTC P0606 which indicates the PCM processor is faulty however... I suppose the other possibility is the engine harness where it runs past the oil filter tower...
 
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