no start prob.
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Another thought....
Did Ford still have the problems with the lousy ignition switch in '92? I never had a problem with my '91, but my '85 Bronco, and my '86 1 ton both have/had the ignition switch break.
If the clutch switch doesn't turn out to be the problem, how is your key switch? Loose? Extra firm? Ford used a pretty lousy linkage in the steering column for several years, especially if you have tilt wheel. Might be worth looking into...
Did Ford still have the problems with the lousy ignition switch in '92? I never had a problem with my '91, but my '85 Bronco, and my '86 1 ton both have/had the ignition switch break.
If the clutch switch doesn't turn out to be the problem, how is your key switch? Loose? Extra firm? Ford used a pretty lousy linkage in the steering column for several years, especially if you have tilt wheel. Might be worth looking into...
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12,232 Posts
There is also an aluminum ignition switch activator that will break in the steering column.
<font color="red">ADDED EDIT>>> </font>
The tilt column has the aluminum "wishbone" that completes the start switch activation at all positions of the tilt wheel. If this breaks the key cylinder gets sloppy and a no start condition exist. You may be able to confirm this by raising the plastic cover on top of the column enough to see the broken part. If you use a screw driver to push the broken end into the column it can start the truck..... don't break the plastic cover.
If you want the schematic and part identification PM me an email addy...
<font color="red">ADDED EDIT>>> </font>
The tilt column has the aluminum "wishbone" that completes the start switch activation at all positions of the tilt wheel. If this breaks the key cylinder gets sloppy and a no start condition exist. You may be able to confirm this by raising the plastic cover on top of the column enough to see the broken part. If you use a screw driver to push the broken end into the column it can start the truck..... don't break the plastic cover.
If you want the schematic and part identification PM me an email addy...
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Check the clutch pedal position switch.....on the clutch pedal arm. Must be set correctly so ignition power continues to the starter relay when pedal is pushed......
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is there any way to bypass this switch? to see if thats the problem. it looks to have two dark colored (maybe blue) w/a tracer color and two red (maybe)wires going into the switch,also if its my guess i would say this switch is after market, it lacks the same layer of grime every thing else has.
Check the clutch pedal position switch.....on the clutch pedal arm. Must be set correctly so ignition power continues to the starter relay when pedal is pushed......
[/ QUOTE ]
is there any way to bypass this switch? to see if thats the problem. it looks to have two dark colored (maybe blue) w/a tracer color and two red (maybe)wires going into the switch,also if its my guess i would say this switch is after market, it lacks the same layer of grime every thing else has.
You have the 5-speed with XLT package /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif, me too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Do a search on "tilt actuator" to see what you may be in for...
As Pete said, 1st thing to do is remove the plastic cover to expose the steering column and rod running along the top of the column.
To bypass: I used a pair of needle nose vice grips to grab a hold of the actuator rod to push it forward, as you push in the clutch and start the truck. You can start it like that until you have the time to fix the actuator ($10 part, an hour of labor at least, unless you have done it before, don't pay the dealer or anyone else, let us walk you through it).
The ignition swich is connected to the end of the actuator rod. If you pull the rod back towards the driver all the way, that is "accessory" position. Move it forward one notch, that is "off". One more forward, that is "on" (dash light with WTS light), then forward one more, that is "start". Let go of the rod and it will move back to the "on" position. Pull back another, that is "off" again.
Good luck, Hugh
Do a search on "tilt actuator" to see what you may be in for...
As Pete said, 1st thing to do is remove the plastic cover to expose the steering column and rod running along the top of the column.
To bypass: I used a pair of needle nose vice grips to grab a hold of the actuator rod to push it forward, as you push in the clutch and start the truck. You can start it like that until you have the time to fix the actuator ($10 part, an hour of labor at least, unless you have done it before, don't pay the dealer or anyone else, let us walk you through it).
The ignition swich is connected to the end of the actuator rod. If you pull the rod back towards the driver all the way, that is "accessory" position. Move it forward one notch, that is "off". One more forward, that is "on" (dash light with WTS light), then forward one more, that is "start". Let go of the rod and it will move back to the "on" position. Pull back another, that is "off" again.
Good luck, Hugh
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