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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 f350 Harley davidson edition with 207k miles that has developed a no start when hot condition once I replaced my tranny. I've read through all of the forums here and tried all the obvious stuff (STC, Dummy Plugs, Stand Pipe) and I blew air through the system and it doesn't leak anymore. But, what I dont understand is that I have to crank for 5-10 seconds when cold to get enough low oil pressure to fill the reservoir for the HPOP. I checked to see if the anti-drain valve was not working, and it was okay. Any thoughts??
 

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Filling the oil filter housing (and cranking) should take only 3-4 seconds with the filter housing drain valve closed. 8-10 seconds without closing it. Crank w/ key off and use the starter solenoid wire "jumped" to the passenger battery.

Is yours slower than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mine is actually spot on with those numbers. I jumped it exactly as you told me before getting on here looking for the flow and it took roughly 8-10 secs without it being closed. My father is a diesel mechanic for 30+ years on cat, international, peterbuilt, etc.. and he is stumped as well. Only thing he can think of is the reservoir is somehow draining all of the fluid so the system is emptying itself out, therefore making the extended crank. Once it starts up, it runs like a dream. I'm sort of lost on this one.
 

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I guess you could always put a pressure gauge on the test port to get a low oil pressure number. The dash gauge is only to tell you if you have at least 7 psig pressure (way below where it should be).

That said, it still sounds like an issue /w the high pressure oil side. Have you pulled, inspected, and tested the IPR valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I put the pressure tester on there yesterday and it wouldn't read anything for about 5 seconds of cranking and then it would build to 20psi, then it would fire right up and jump to where it should be. I checked the IPR valve and replaced it with a new one so there is no doubt that it could be the problem. The ICP sensor has also been replaced. But, once I turn the truck off, the pressure on the gauge drops to zero in a couple seconds. I will get you exact readings tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was not able to get readings cause something else broke of course... Was driving down I-95 on my way home from work and out of nowhere my touchscreen headunit decided to turn on and off repeatedly which was really odd... I just turned it off manually and kept driving. Then about 5 mins away, everything turned off. So my alternator decided to die on me. If it's not one thing, it's another...
 

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You should develop 45-55 psi of low pressure oil. A couple things would be are you sure your spring loaded filter housing drain back plug is in good shape? Are you using a Motorcraft oil filter with a stock cap? If one or the other is not you may be having oil bypass the filter and drain back immediately when you shut down. If you are getting drain back it could delay the engine start.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
At first, I was using a NAPA cap and an Autozone filter because I did not know the difference but I'm good friends with Marty's Diesel and he told me that you cannot mix the two because of the height difference. The spring loaded drain back plug is in good shape. I held it down with an extension and cranked it over to make sure it could hold oil and it did fine. I was able to hook up my gauge this morning and I did get exactly 55 psig of low pressure oil.
 

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You would do well to get an OEM cap and stick w/ OEM filters.
 

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Just so I'm clear, could you restate your issue??

Do you have a confirmed NO START HOT and a long crank when cold or is the problem intermittent and variable?
 

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You may very well have been starving the HPOP and done some damage to it when you ran the wrong filter/cap combo (as long as you are sure the IPR isn't the issue).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The problem happens every single time i turn the truck off when it is HOT. If i try to start the truck right after I turn it off, it will not fire back up. But, if i let it sit and cool down, it takes me 5-10 seconds to build the oil pressure back up to start it again. It's almost as if when i shut it off hot, the oil become less viscous and the LPOP cant keep up enough. Maybe I should just change the oil and filter again and see if it makes a difference.

My problem is NO START HOT. I also have a long crank when cold, which is because I have no oil pressure until 5 seconds into cranking, which i tested.

There's no way the LPOP is bad though, because if it was, I wouldn't be able to start the truck at all. Also, why would the HPOP be fine when it's cold, but not when hot?
 

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The oil is thicker when cold ....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah... I was saying that when the oil gets hot and less viscous, the pump isn't able to build pressure before it all drains back out. When its cold, its more viscous causing it to drain slower and letting the reservoir fill up, so it can satisfy the threshold needed for the HPOP. Do you think it could be an electrical issue?
 

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The leak is probably on the HP oil side. Injector o-rings is a common cause. It's happened to me on my 7.3L.
You need a minimum HP oil pressure to be able to start. The HPOP is a low-volume, high pressure system, so it doesn't take much of a leak to keep the pressure from building up high enough.
The LPOP is a high volume pump, so it can easily supply enough oil.
You need to monitor HP oil pressure (ICP) while cranking with a scan tool. That will tell the tale.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have figured out the problem! it was the o-ring's to the injectors where the oil rail sits. Also, i needed a new oil cooler because the guy I bought the truck from did not know how to flush coolant apparently.
 
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