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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Past couple of days my truck has been hard starting with no WTS light when it sits for 20 or 30 min. If it sits for over an hour or so, everything works fine. :headbang:

I thought it could be an air intrusion issue so replaced all the O-Rings as recommended on the forum along with a check valve between the fuel filter and IP (one injector won't seal and is always a little damp but no puddle in the valley).

Any ideas?
 

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How many miles on the IP? Next time try pouring tepid water on the pump. If it starts right up your IP is in need of rebuild. DO NOT use cool or cold water.
 

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(one injector won't seal and is always a little damp but no puddle in the valley).
If fuel leaks out, AIR will "leak" in, possibly draining the return line and IP, depending on where the leak is.

If your saying the injector line nut leaks, back off the nut and make sure the line flare is square with the injector seat. Could also be bad O'ring on the inline cap, or cap is not seated down all the way.

The WTS lite won't come on, on a hot engine, might just flash on for a second or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How many miles on the IP? Next time try pouring tepid water on the pump. If it starts right up your IP is in need of rebuild. DO NOT use cool or cold water.
No clue to be honest. Was told it was a rebuilt engine install 100k ago, but no idea if the IP was rebuilt or replaced at the same time.

As for the injector, it is snug down good and I have replaced the O-rings twice now.

If air intrusion was the issue, wouldn't it give me a difficult time starting first thing in the morning rather only when it has sat for a short time?
 

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Yes it would, I would try Chuck's suggestion. Bill is right too if fuel is visible, air is getting in. Probably just not enough to be a problem...YET.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm dropping it off next week to have a compression, leak down, and blowby tested. Time to see where I stand before I start investing in an IP for the truck. May just opt to pick up a new truck and garage this one for a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tried doing the tepid water test and no change. Any other suggestions at this point? Or should I just starting replacing the whole fuel system?
 

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Fuel at the schrader valve? Fuel at the injectors? Smoke out the tailpipe when trying to start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fuel at the schrader valve? Fuel at the injectors? Smoke out the tailpipe when trying to start?
A cloud of white smoke once it does start comes out, but clears right up. Fuel at the schrader valve, never checked at the injectors though.

I dropped it off at the mechanic's today for a diagnosis. Running out of time for chasing these problems down. At least I will know what I need to fix instead of running in circles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Turned out injector kit I installed wasn't done properly. 5 out of 8 injectors had leaks. My first attempt at working on this thing failed. Oh well. $400 later it is fixed and working right now.
 

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Lesson learned. Some are cheap, some not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do a search on tachs, there are hundreds of them.
I have. Replaced the tach sensor, replaced all the grounds, replaced the TCM relay, ran a new ground for the TCM. Problem is I can not duplicate the problem to narrow down where I may have a short. I can jiggle wires till I am blue in the face and that tach never goes out. Drive down the road and hit a few bumps...out it goes...usually only momentarily....occasionally until I hit the next bump.

I know it has to do with the TCM as I loose use of my OD off button when the tach is out, but it works fine when the tach is working. :headbang:
 
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