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Discussion Starter #1
So I just replaced the following parts on my 2005 F350:
4 injectors (2, 4, 6, 8)
IPR

After fighting a non-start I took a fuel pressure reading and found I had no fuel pressure (bad fuel pump).

Replaced the Fuel Pump and installed the blue spring upgrade with adjuster, I now have 60PSI.

Still no start.

I have the Torque Pro App and took the following readings while cranking:
FICM Logic Power = 47.5
ICP Pressure: Over 500
ICP Voltage: .3
FICM Sync: 1
IPR: 83%
FICM V: 48v


I've got the AutoEnginuity Package with Ford Expansion coming this Tuesday. I'll do a BUZZ test on it to see if every injector is operational. I can hear it kick off when I first turn the key to the on position, but not starting it and it sounds good. I'm afraid I may have welded some of the injectors shut while trying to start it without any fuel pumping...


Anything else I should run once I get the AE tester?

Thanks,
 

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ICP voltage indicates you really don't have ICP pressure (or the ICP sensor is bad).

0.3v is essentially the zero point.

0.8v (approximately) is the voltage that corresponds to 500 psig.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmmm, that is going to suck balls Bismic…

I'm going to check the voltage at the icp sensor to see what it is there as opposed to using the torque pro measurement. See if that tells me something different. The Torque pro app takes a while to update while you're cranking and I think the ICP voltage is a calculation you have to enter into the application. while I think I did this correctly, I don't want to rely on that too much.

Thanks for the information... I'll get back to you on the reading I get.
 

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I assume you know this but just in case, you can check the ICP sensor just by unplugging it. Check your base oil pressure first - do an extended crank and make sure the dummy gauge comes alive. If you've got base oil pressure just pull the connector on the ICP and see if it starts. I'm gonna guess it won't because I don't think you've got high pressure oil but you won't hurt anything by trying it.
 

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The IPR is at 83%, so it looks like an issue in the HPO system.

Have you tried starting w/ the ICP unplugged?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I haven't, would that work if the ICP was bad?
 

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That is why you do it (to take a bad ICP out of the picture). It will start on estimated values that the PCM will provide in the absence of a signal, assuming everything else is in good working order.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I unplugged it... No Joy! Still didn't start. Looks like I'm going to have a few hours of work once my hernia surgery heals up. I'm not sure what the cost of repair on that would be if someone else did it.. I guess I should check. Maybe it's worth it at this point. After I do the BUZZ test on Tuesday/Wednesday this week I'll make a decision on if I'm going to do the repair or have Ford do it.

Thanks Bismic!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, do have base oil pressure. Just not ICP.
 

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Look at the cheap stuff first. Pull the IPR and see if the screen is damaged. If it is look for crud inside the valve. Crud or a bad IPR could cause your symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've already replaced the IPR. I will say the old IPR didn't look like it was clogged or had any damage.
 

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Sorry - I missed that you had replaced the IPR - its right there in front of me in your first post.

Have you pressure tested the HP rails?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I haven't pressure tested the HP rails.

This all started about 4 weeks ago when we hit -30 here in Iowa. I found the #6 injector was bad and I changed that and it started up an ran great. I drove it about 45 miles and it started running bad again. I let the Ford Dealership look at it and they found injectors 2 and 4 were also going bad and suggested I put a new Fuel Pressure Regulator on it. I decided to go ahead and replace the IPR at the same time. So I replaced the following last weekend.


Injectors 2, 4, & 8 (Already replaced #6 the weekend before).
IPR
Fuel Pressure Regulator Blue Spring Kit
Fuel Pump, after I found the fuel pump wasn't working.
Air Cleaner

I'm finding it hard to imagine that the rails would cause a no start, when cold, issue as they normally affect hot starts, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
But it is possible, I guess. and I'm assuming to repair the rail leaks is substantially cheaper than the ~800 to fix the HPOP.
 

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Its not the rails themselves you are testing. You've got no high pressure oil. That could be from a stuck IPR which is likely ruled out. It could be from a bad HPOP which would be expensive so we'd like to come to that last. Dieseltech Ron says a bad HPOP is pretty unlikely on the 2nd gen 6.0 litre but if you end up at a stealership they may just want to throw parts at you. No HP oil could be from a broken branch tube which would be a huge PITA and probably isn't likely given what you've done but it is possible. It could be from a leaky STC fitting. It could be from bad dummy plug(s) or standpipes (which is actually pretty likely). Its unlikely you've got enough injector cups leaking to keep it from starting at all but that's another possible leak point. If you're going to diagnose as opposed to chucking parts at it then you need to start with an air test.
 

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For your 05, the most likely issues are the STC fitting if it is still original, and/or the dummy plugs if they are still original. The dummy plugs can be bad enough to cause a cold no-start. definitely the STC fitting can.

The 05 and up HPOPs do fail occasionally, but certainly not at a great frequency. The branch tubes are highly unlikely to be a problem.

IMO, it is time to leak test the HPO system w/ shop air.

Listen at the oil fill tube and CCV vent opening for the specific oil rail component leaks. Leaks at both would indicate an STC fitting issue IMO.

Listen at the turbo oil drain and the oil filter housing (filter removed) for a failed HPOP.

Since you had fuel pump issues, you should anticipate replacing the passenger injectors at some point in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I had surgery and haven't been able to work on my truck... until today.

I go out, drag my air hose to my truck, get my extension cords laid out, go to take out the ICP to install the test fitting. I put the socket and ratchet on the ICP, give it a little pressure, and do you know what happens? The ICP came apart...

Any advice on how to get the rest of the ICP out?
 

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You may have to pull the valve cover to get access to some remaining portion of that sensor!
 

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I wouldn't presume to argue with Bismic but you may not need to pull the valve cover. If you have a square easy out that just barely fits in what's left of that sender it should come out easily. Its an ORB fitting so its not really all that tight.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think I'll give that a try Bob... Unless Bismic would come back and tell me "no way" for some reason. I was kinda thinking about that but didn't know if I could damage the rest of the sensor enough to possibly drop pieces into engine somehow.

I'll wait for a little before going at it to see if anyone indicates that's a bad idea.

Thanks,
 
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