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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 02 f350. It runs awsome and has 228k on it. After this winter and plugging it in for the first time I owned it, I'm having a cold start issue. First thing I do is heat the plug light 4 times, then crank. It cranks good but release white smoke from exhaust, then I'll stop and cranking it and light the glow plugs another 4 time and she'll fire off and start but has more white smoke until it warms. Was wondering how and if I can get it back to a single crank no smoke starter again. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Well, first thing you need to do is break out the ohmmeter and do some checking. Kevin wrote a how-to for just this:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f47/hard-no-start-check-here-first-75094/

Check your glow plug relay a couple of times. There is a disk internally that makes contact and it rotates with each use. The disk gets arc damage which prevents good current flow. Better yet, toss the old one and replace it with a Stancor. Welcome to guzzle's White-Rodgers (Stancor) GPR replacement Mod Web Page

Make sure and replace bad (or all) glow plugs with Beru brand. Other brands have a nasty habit of swelling which can cause them to break off next time you try to pull them.

If your glow plugs are perfect and your relay is working, you may have worn injectors. Read this to understand why that affects cold starts: View attachment PoppetValve.pdf

Finally, cranking speed affects cold starts. Either weak batteries or a dying starter. If you have a scanner, you can watch cranking voltage and cranking RPM. If you have a problem with either - replace both batteries and/or your starter. The genuine Nippondenso or a Visteon are good alternatives.
 

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If the glow plug system isn't working correctly cycling them won't do anything.

RT pretty much covered everything
 

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ford787.3,

Welcome to the forum !

You do not have to "light the glowplugs 4 times".

I am guessing you mean turn the key off/on so the WTS light comes back on each time.

On the 2002 like yours, the glow plugs stay on even after the WTS light goes off and they will stay on for as long as 2 minutes even when the Wait-To-Start light turns off.

Maybe you are just doing this now because it is so hard to start but when you replace your GPR and GPs then you only have to do this once.

BTW, where do live?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey thanks all.... We'll GPR not click and performed all tests GPR is bad and it would appear all of my glow plugs are weak or bad. Ohms test found one at like 200 something Ohms and and at like 11, the rest were at 3 or below which 3 is to high so I'm gonna do all 8 glow plugs and relay. Thanks for all the Imput. On to better how does this forum work.... Is there an app or some kind of notification if some one reply to a post your in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Arctic driver
I live in New Mexico.
I have a huge project planned for this power train and need to it to last forever.
 

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As RT mentioned above, if you can wait a few days for it to arrive, order the Stancor Relay or if you can find a Western plow relay.

Many of us have experienced very short lives with other after-market relays. My NAPA lasted 10 months.

And the Beru brand GP is who manufactures and supplies the Motorcraft GP so either is OK.
 

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Plugging the block heater in for 3 hours before attempting to start should make cold starts possible until you get the new parts.

There are some good DIYs about accessing the GPs. I recall the bolts nearest the firewall are a tough angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Waiting won't be an issue as this isn't my daily driver. I have seen that aftermarket GPS can give me trouble getting them out. I didn't put them and don't know what's in there now any recommendations on how to proceed with caution and not break them? Trick forgetting them out. If I do break one how do I get it out? I am mechanicaly inclined just haven't had much diesel time.
 

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Waiting won't be an issue as this isn't my daily driver. I have seen that aftermarket GPS can give me trouble getting them out. I didn't put them and don't know what's in there now any recommendations on how to proceed with caution and not break them? Trick forgetting them out. If I do break one how do I get it out? I am mechanicaly inclined just haven't had much diesel time.
When you remove the glow plugs, they should unscrew without much resistance, so if they start to bind up, stop immediately. Then get some carb cleaner and squirt it down alongside the threads. Let it soak a while and then turn the GP back and forth till it loosens up. It may take a few applications of carb cleaner. If you do break one off, you're either looking at pulling the head or punching the broken tip back into the cylinder and hope it doesn't do much damage as ift eventually gets blown out the exhaust. The second method is not recommended.

Like the other guys said, the Stancor relay is the way to go. Even genuine International or Motorcraft GPR's are not that robust. I've had one last only 3 months or so. It's been so long since I put the Stancor on mine, I don't remember when I did it. I'm going to guess at least 4 years.
 

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When you remove the glow plugs, they should unscrew without much resistance, so if they start to bind up, stop immediately. Then get some carb cleaner and squirt it down alongside the threads. Let it soak a while and then turn the GP back and forth till it loosens up. It may take a few applications of carb cleaner. If you do break one off, you're either looking at pulling the head or punching the broken tip back into the cylinder and hope it doesn't do much damage as ift eventually gets blown out the exhaust. The second method is not recommended.
I haven't done it personally, but have heard if you beat it into the cylinder, you can pull the injector and fish it out with a magnet. Obviously going slow and not breaking it is still much preferred.
 
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