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126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so grandpa took his truck to a tranny shop and they confirmed the worst case scenario(sp?), tranny is starting to go /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif . too bad he has a hard time driving a stick. so its question time....

1. is this a job that is easily tackled?

2. anyone got some measurements of the special tools to "custom make". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

3. list of upgrades in a somewhat prioritized(sp?) order? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

thanks in advance, he will need the truck going pretty quick.

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2,214 Posts
Here ya go...

Full-size trucks first received the huge E4OD (Electronic 4 speed OverDrive) transmission in 1989. Internally, it is essentially a C-6 with overdrive added to the front (such as the A4LD is to the C-3) and an EEC controlled valve body.

If it becomes necessary to overhaul your E4OD transmission, you should perform as many updates as possible if it is a pre-1995 unit. E4OD component updates include, as an example, the following items:

Improved (thicker) converter clutch piston (circa 1994), prevents the formation of cracks which relieve fluid pressure from the apply side of the clutch, causing it to slip and even bluing the outside surface of the torque converter in extreme cases. Ensure that your new converter contains an updated OEM or "LuK" brand heavy-duty clutch. This can be difficult, as many torque converter suppliers and remanufacturers may not use this new style of clutch.

Higher displacement front pump (for 1995) provides more fluid capacity for faster engagement of reverse and greater lube flow.

New (for 1994) 4-pinion overdrive planet and input shaft assemblies replace older 3 and 4 pinion units which tend to develop cracks in the carrier under heavy loads.

Center support update kit (for units built from 1989 through part of 1994) replaces wear-prone bushing with a ball bearing and contains a new overdrive stub shaft.

Stronger overdrive clutch cylinder snap ring which will not dislodge.

Revised sun gear and rear case bushings (circa 1992 model year) provide longer wear life and better lubrication.

Four pinion planet carriers (first used in 1992 model year)

New forward clutch friction plates with hardened internal splines cure "chatter" and "no-drive" conditions in E4OD and some later C-6 transmissions.

Try, they have real good prices and have not only tool for the E4Od but Sonnax upgrade parts for the pump among other things. has rebuild kits and small parts kits and upgrade packages to Red Eagle frictions and Kolene steels which are better than the stock setup.
Do a search on Richter69, he has a good pictorial on rebuilding the E4OD, plus good tips and shop built tools which is great. Always replace the output shaft snap ring on the rebuild, the Ford standard number is 387031-S.
The slide hammer can be a universal type as used in body work, you actually are supposed to use 2. One on each side, but alternateing 1 side to side to pull the pump will work. The adapter mates the slide hammer threaded shaft to the threaded holes in the pump. These tools maybe available on the sites mentioned or local. The next tool will possibly be an OTC Ford Rotunda only-- Clutch spring compressor T89T-70010-F. You will also need the gear train tool for disassembly and reassembly. Read further and you will see it mentioned. That tool is available aftermarket.

The missing checkballs indicate you have a later model tranny or a shift kit has been installed. The servo piston also, it was revised to eliminate the plate and snap ring. The snapped shaft is the input shaft and goes from the torque converter to the OD planet carrier. So Far your probably in for replacement of the shaft and OD planet carrier and probably TC due to the metal shavings.

The upgrade info mentioned is correct except the lastest design for the planets is 6 pinion front and rear and 4 for OD all with cast iron carriers. These parts bring strength up to 2002 4r100 Diesel level. Since your fixing it to sell your probably not wanting to upgrade it, just fix it. The ball bearing center support and pump alone will upgrade an IDI tranny to Powerstroke 95-97 strength with the used planets I have. 94-97 diesel units have the same strength planets.

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4,723 Posts
The Ford dealer can have you a reman in 2 days. 3/36 warranty, somewhere upwards of $2,000 (mine was $1,930 at jobber cost).

I'm a trained mechanic and I didn't even attempt my own rebuild. I couldn't afford to spend the time and money and not be certain it would work.

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126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok, minor detail, very limited budget

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408 Posts
Well, if he can live without overdrive, I would think a C6 would serve him well, and be a few hundred versus a couple thousand. I don't know the particulars of the swap but since it was a factory option, it shouldn't be too difficult. Also, consider a junkyard takeout.

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36 Posts
im a firm believer that if a shop can survive as only a transmission shop, theres a reason for it......deffinite second to Mr. Roboto. not for the do-it-yourselfer.......if you must brave it, i wish you the best of luck.

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1,882 Posts
go to sig, truck/car stuff then e4od build. Thats an older one but it will handle all you can throw at it. Loose the stock coolers and get a 6.0 unit off ebay and heat will never be an issue.

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66 Posts
I just finshed rebuilding my 1991 e4od, I havent been able to finish installing it yet, after floods, and a host of other obsticals my step father just went into the hospital.
there is alot of stuff in there, very large undertaking. If you get the ASTG manuals, update and rebuild, it is a lot easier, I could not have done it without them. be sure to read the manuals several times, then re-read them it makes it posssible. be very carefull to stack parts up as you take them out, alot of the parts and bearing look the same but are really different with no way of telling which
is which. clean every single part as your putting it back together, if you do it sooner it is easy to missplace parts. you may look into getting new snaprings, I bent mine taking out and had to get new ones, its also cheap insurance.
I didnt make any tools or buy any tools, but it would have been ALOT easier and quicker if I had.
the money issue, like you I am on a tight budget, this truck is a luxury not a required part of my fleet. I got the rebuild kit and all the update parts Bauman carried, for the rest I went to ebay. It still cost me about $1200 in parts alone, $900 in updates and I purchased a new solenoid block.
even after rebuilding it, I still dont know anything about how it works, just was able to follow instructions, like assembling a model car.
Good luck, Jeremy

I found this site,
they have a ton of info on a bunch of transmissions.
here is some info I found,

Direct Drum Rebuild:

Compress direct drum pistion return spring to remove / reinstall snap ring. (we used a 4" pvc coupling
cut in have).

Coast Clutch:

Also use a pvc coupling of appropriate size and drill press or vice to compress spring to remove / reinstall snap

Install Overdrive Cylinder Return Spring:</P>

Make round metal cage out of 1/4" round bar and weld ends together with stand bars to smaller cage with 3/8" flat stock across with 1/2" hole for allthread. (Must be large enough to allow for snap ring expansion.
Use plate with 1/2" on bottom of Intermediate cylinder and 1/2" allthread to compress intermediate spring; reinstall snap ring and release compression.

Reassemble Transmission:

To Install Reverse one-way sprag inner race:

Use 5/16" x 3" long bolts with heads cut off and slot ends with hacksaw.

To install Shell/Forward/Direct hubs/one-way sparg assembly

Lay trans on side and install unit in to reverse planetary. Then stand trans back up verticle. (We made a heavy
duty verticle stand).

To install Intermediate / Overdrive Cylinder in case.

Place Cyinder in place; put snap ring next to cylinder; snap ring opening will be at bottom of case to allow draining. Using the same cage that was constructed for removing Overdrive return spring, place a flat bar or pipe with hole in it across cage; then bolt a flat 3/8" plate (or you can use 2x4 board) across pump mate surface of case; then use a jack screw and nut to push against bolted 3/8" plate or 2x4 to compress Overdrive / Intermediate
cylinder in to case until it is even with bolt hole center and a little more at the worm channel bolt hole.

Now, install snap ring; rotate ring until gap is at bottom and slowly release jack screw. Look at bolt hole opening
to see if cylinder threaded hole is in center.

Install Center Shaft and Coast Clutch as an assembly.

Place coast clutch on bench without friction and steels and snap ring.

Install Center Shaft in coast clutch and make sure it is seated all the way.

Install frictions and steels and snap ring in coast clutch..

Again lay transmission on side and install Center Shaft / Coast Clutch as an assembly.

You must center Pump bolts and keep teflon seal openings to bottom side of case with gaps
closed using goo.

Use 8mm bolt threads that have been welded to 2-1/2" long 3/8" O.D. bolt shanks; or </P>

3/8" O.D. metal sleeves that will fit over 3" long 8mm bolts (grind sleeves to fit slip in to pump
bolt holes.

Pump should go in to case very easy except for last 1/4" inch. Watch telfon seals enter coast clutch to
make sure gaps do not open..
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