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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2000 7.3 PSD stock, 272K miles.

No start, smokes, sometimes it will fire a bit and run on a few cylinders on it's own but mostly it will just crank with a pop or two.

Original codes were P0231 and P1316. I cleared them and did a buzz test because I have read that will force out the codes that the 1316 is saying is in the IDM, but I have no codes coming up now.

The P0231 is for the fuel pump circuit, but I'm uncertain if jumping power to the pump proves anything. It runs, but I haven't been able to find the 1/8 pipe plug to check fuel pressure. Could it just be weak? Would it smoke if the fuel pump was weak?

ICP up to 2200 PSI.

WTS light comes on.

RPM reads plausible.

PW 3.23 ms.

Swapped IDM relay

Pulled filter cover off and cycled key on for about 2 seconds and it almost topped off the bowl.

Unplugged the fuel heater and the first time I tried starting it, it fired on a few cylinders on it's own. Plugged it back in and it just cranked with a pop or two. Unplugged it and just cranked with a pop or two.

Would I be getting smoke if the IDM was TU?

Thanks.
 

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Smoke would indicate the IDM is firing at least a few cylinders. When you did the buzz test, the IDM codes should have been revealed. Did anything come up? What did you do the buzz test with?

You can check for fuel pressure crudely by opening the drain and cycling the key. It should pee like a Stallion. The 1/4 plug is in the front inner aspect of the passenger side head. Look for where the fuel line goes in on the driver's side head and mirror that on the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Perfect directions. Thank you. After almost 30 minutes of trying different fittings and finally grinding on one to get it to go in there, I spent 30 seconds finding out that I have 64 PSI KOEO and 62 PSI KOEC.

But now I know for sure.

So the next step is electrical. IIRC, The injector harness can come loose under the valve cover, but that would affect just one side. I think I need to focus on the IDM.

I have the tech bulletin by GB Remanufacturing, Inc. so I guess that's my next stop.
 

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That's not a bad thing to check, but you did the buzz test, right? If they're buzzing, electrical continuity is there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm used to the buzzing in a 6.0L not a 7.3. THe 7.3 is more clicking than buzzing, correct? The very first time I did it, there was some loud clunking and the Solus scanner aborted the test. I did it again and I had no codes.

This time, it went all the way through and I heard the clunking to start, then 8 clicking, then I got the code: P1291 Bank 1 INJ short - ground or VBATT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the video. Too many alligators here today. I got it fixed. It was the orange wire going to the passenger side connector. Once I did the Buzz test and got that code, I knew to look on that side and as soon as I lifted the harness, I saw the problem. A little bit of shrink tube and it's out the door.

The bad part is that I didn't think to do a buzz test afterwards. I shoulda done that. The buzz test I did didn't sound like that at all, but I bet it does now.

Thank you for helping hold my hand to make sure I was going in the right direction and helping me find that plug.

Next is the steering box in an F550, then the AC in an F650. It's just a Ford weekend. yeay
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, so it turned out not be an all Ford weekend. Our international with a Cummins 6.7 blew a coolant hose so I spent most of the day putting out that fire as well as chasing parts for another F650 that's 150 miles away.

Anyway, I have been thinking about this. Specifically the buzz test that I did that didn't show the IDM codes. Like I said, the first time I tried it, it self aborted before it got to buzzing individual cylinders. So I did it a second time and I had zero codes. The third time I did it (with some prodding by RT) THAT is when I got the codes. Is it common to have to do multiple buzz tests to get the codes to show themselves?

I guess what I am trying to find out is if there is a P1316 code and you do a buzz test and it shows no codes, do you keep doing a buzz test? Maybe wiggle the harness between tests? I'm wondering if maybe when I did that second buzz test, I didn't actually have a short to ground, but with some shaking from cranking, things moved enough to give me the code?

I dunno here. I'm trying to get smarter by asking questions.
 
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