The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About to close the deal on a 2016 F250 6.7. I am coming out of a 2006 F350 6.0.

I have see the recommendation on the Rotella T6 5w/40. Is anyone doing an oil change right when they get it from the dealer? Maybe not a filter change but drain the 10w/30 out and add the 5w/40 Synthetic in? Would that leave too much 10w/30 in to mix with the 5w/40 if not doing a filter change?

Also, I see PM22 is a fuel additive we should run in this truck instead of the Diesel Kleen or Stanadyne in the 6.0.

What about in the oil? I know Rev-X has been great in the other truck but anyone use it in the 6.7?

Thanks for the info and looking forward to the new truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Run the 10W30 for the first 1000 miles or so, wont hurt anything, then change to whatever 5W40 synthetic your heart desires. Archoil AR9100 in the oil, and AR6200 or the PM22 in the fuel. The new one, like the old one, are work trucks, don't baby it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,869 Posts
I ran factory oil until 550 miles.
Then changed oil and filter and put T6 in.
I don't add anything to the oil.

Been running PM22 since day 1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,501 Posts
Most seem to think that running the factory oil to at least 5000 on most of the 5 (five) 6.7 forums I am on. I ran mine to almost 5000 but changed to full synthetic about 4500 since I was about to take off on a 3500 mile trip and didn't want to change on the road. Since I was given a Premium Maintenance Plan from Ford, I am currently using the Motorcraft full synthetic. Once the plan expires next May, I will switch to the Rotella T6.

Many add the Fumoto or EZ Drain oil valve during the first oil change. It slows down the oil exiting pan and you can also get a 90* elbow to direct it to your collection pan. They are pretty much the same design and function.

http://fumotousa.com/
http://ezoildrainvalve.com/


Is up to you, but I will NOT run the PowerService gray or white fuel additives since they try to "dissolve" the water into the fuel and burn the water as part of the fuel. Water is the death of the common rail fuel injection systems and high pressure pump. I have also added the Dieselsite fuelt filter setup. Is not cheap and just gives added security on trying to catch the water.

Mostly I run the Stanadyne Blue or Red additive. Sometimes run the PM-22. The Stanadyne is a de-emulsifier and tries to separate the water from the fuel so the DFCM can catch the water and not let it pass on to the engine.

I also have a locking Fuel Cap from Stant part number 10510D. Cost is about $14.00 on eBay with shipping. I DO NOT remove the Diesel cap and the DEF cap at the same time. I only remove the cap for what I am about to do, fuel or add DEF. I and many others run the Wal Mart DEF for about $8.00 for 2.5 gallon with no issues.

Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more than you are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you guys for the info, I have had very good service from my 6.0 from staying up with what is recommended here. Now that I am moving on to the 6.7 I want to make sure I am up to speed with the new rig.

Looks like T6 it will be after I run the factory oil for a short time.

I did notice the oil drain plug suggestion, looks like a great option.

I will run Stanadyne red or blue and or the PM-22 and stay away from the "emulsifiers" and just empty the drain on the fuel filter often. I see the red/blue boosts the cetane as well so that is a good option and can get it close to home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,501 Posts
One other options some invest in is, the larger underbelly tanks from Titan and TransferFlow. They are a bit expensive but others besides myself, think they are worth it. I have the Titan 65 gallon tank for my CCLB DRW. The SB is 50 gallon.

Many also seem to like the in-bed transfer tanks. To me, that uses valuable space, specially if you have a SB.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,205 Posts
Modern day manufacturing tolerances really do not require pouring out good oil to just put good oil back in. I'm seeing better results running the MC 10w30. I'm going to give Delo 10w30 a shot to see if there's any differences noted. For fuel additives I have been running Howes. It's making a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
My Diesel Supplement says not to use friction modifiers during the break in period which I understand to be 5,000 miles. I've also heard not to change the oil for 5,000 miles as well.
AR9100 is a friction modifier, BTW.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HeavyAssault

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
I take (and took) a slightly different approach with new engines. I changed the oil and filter in my 2015 at about 1500 miles and again in about 4,600, then I settled into a 5,000-7,000 mile OCI depending on the oil used and the operating conditions. I have not used a conventional oil in it as yet (except for the factory fill), only synblends and synthetics. I also do not use any oil additives, but I do use Standadyne in the fuel (alternating every other tank between lubricity and performance formula).

Speaking for me, I would only run a synthetic or a synthetic blend. In the mainstream oils that I have used (Delo 400 LE 5W-40, Delo 400 XLE 10W-30, Kendall Super-Dxa 15W-40, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40, Motorcraft 10W-30, and Rotella T6 5W-40) only the Rotella T6 and Kendall have the Ford specification (WSS-M2C171–E), but obviously all of them meet API CJ-4.

My ranking of those oils are (based upon performance, "noisiness", cost, and availability--I bolded some key points based upon my experience):

1 - Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 (most expensive synthetic, but "best" overall--IMHO)
2 - Kendall Super-Dxa 15W-40 (reasonable cost synblend, quietest oil used, availability can be spotty)
3 - Delo 400 LE 5W-40 (least expensive synthetic, good performance and noise, available everywhere)
4 - Rotella T6 5W-40 (mid-cost synthetic, noisiest synthetic, good performance and available everywhere)
5 - Delo 400 XLE 10W-30 (least expensive synblend, noisiest synthetic blend, available everywhere)
6 - Motorcraft 10W-30 (expensive conventional, available most everywhere, performance not known)

I have said the above in other posts and this too, but the cost difference between an OC with Chevron XLE (10W-30 synblend) and Chevron LE (5W-40 full synthetic) is $12 (using pricing at my local WM) so if you decide to go full synthetic, it is not like you will be spending a huge amount of extra money.

I would be interested in hearing which way you go (Chevron, Mobil or Shell, & Conventional, SynBlend, or Synthetic).
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top