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Discussion Starter #1
Changed oil on Saturday and installed an EZ Drain valve. Maybe some of you are interested in a plain old oil change video?

 

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I've tried the "punch a hole" in the bottom of the filter routine but find it's more work and time than just dealing with it like you did.. Maybe next time I'll drill a hole ..maybe that would be the way.. then drop the filter..

The Ez Drain is good but it does take longer to get the oil out.. I did it once while engine was cold and cold out... took forever to drain... so never again.. Ha.. Live and learn...

I use a 3/8 hose over the EZ to a 24 qt Flotool tub from TSC works great.. catches filter oil easy too.. then I bring it to my local oil burning auto repair garage to keep them warm during our below zero temps we get often..
 

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Always enjoy your videos.

I think that is an older generation filter.
New filters are FL2051S.

That is a mess doing the filter that way.
I always punch a hole and go do something else for a while. Much cleaner.

I personally don't like the valves.
Always oil left in there.
Someone can be a real jerk and open that valve on you...... that will lead to trouble quickly if you don't catch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's a good point. The hotter the oil the better to drain through the valve. Maybe there's some extra benefit to that in that more oil will come out? And as to the vandalism or accidental opening, I guess that's a possibility. It only takes once to be seriously unhappy but folks seem to be pretty satisfied with them. I'm thinking I would notice if there were 13 quarts of oil on the garage floor or parking lot. At least I hope I would. That truck is high off the ground and there's plenty of daylight underneath. I did get an interesting comment on the video though. One guy pointed out that there's no magnet on the valve. So I put a neodynium magnet below the drain valley of the oil pan. That magnet is much, much stronger than the little drain plug magnet and should hold any ferrous metals easily. All I have to do is take it off before I open the valve. Should work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Always enjoy your videos.

I think that is an older generation filter.
New filters are FL2051S.

That is a mess doing the filter that way.
I always punch a hole and go do something else for a while. Much cleaner.

I personally don't like the valves.
Always oil left in there.
Someone can be a real jerk and open that valve on you...... that will lead to trouble quickly if you don't catch it.
Thanks for the heads up on the filter. I bought two the last time and this was on the shelf. I get them from dieselfiltersonline.com and sure enough, the part number is updated with the S.
 

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I would not trust it I work in the woods and swamp. All it would take is a tree branch in a bad mud hole and I would be buying a new motor.
 

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I use the valves for my cooling system to drain the block but I have never trusted them on oil for all of the reasons above. I have an extra socket for the drain plug sitting off to the side on the tool box and another one for the filter (6.0L) and honestly, climbing under there, catching the oil, disposing of the oil, that's the PITA, IMO, not opening one bolt. I'm still on the original drain plug with maybe once or twice replacing the washer in 10 years... I just don't see that the valve is going to "improve the experience" that much". I don't know about the newer engines but the drain plug on the 6.0L is dead center in the bottom of the pan, they use a very low profile plug from the factory, I think that's for a reason... a protruding valve is just begging to get knocked by debris on the road or off road driving.

This is what improved my world more than anything... especially a few years ago when I was dropping the oil every two weeks while covering a ton of miles for a few months. I let the fuel filters leak into it when changing them as well. I never lose a drain plug into the oil anymore, I almost get no oil on my glove while opening it fast and letting the plug fall onto the screen. And yes, it does fit under my stock height truck on 18's no problem while on the ground.

Redline RE10G 10 Gallon Rolling Oil Drainage Change Waste Pan Tank Steel Drain | eBay

I have a spot out of the way in the garage, I only drain it about every 4 oil changes or so. I set the funnel on the 5gal pail, lift the screen off the pan and bail the oil out with an old plastic juice jug, dump it in the funnel. I have had one of those stupid little round black plastic ones fold in half like a sandwich when I went to move it from the hot oil and being full right to the brim...that was not a good day.. never again.

If your changing you oil twice a year, probably doesn't make sense though.
 

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I have had one of the EZ-drain valves on my truck for 32,000 miles with no problems. Sure beats the gushing of the oil s it does with the drain plug. I can vary the rate if needed. The amount of oil left by the valve is minimal. There is no way to drain all the oil even via the stock drain plug and you also have residual oil left in areas of the engine. Too many people of OCD.
 

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It is not ocd with me. I know if I can puncture my oil pan in the brush out in the woods. I know that value can get opened.
 
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Nothing to do with OCD... I just want that torrent of initial oil to come out fast. Compare it to a slow moving stream, silt etc stays put, fast moving stream, stuff gets picked up and carried away. I want the same thing, if there is anything at all laying in the oil pan with the oil, I want it flushed out with the oil stream. I inspect the magnet on the plug every oil change too. If the bolt took 5 minutes to remove and was a PITA, I still don't think I would consider it, but the fact that the bolt is 10 seconds longer than opening a drain, complete no brainier for me. If I was aiming for a shallow plastic pan that barely held the contents of the engine, or if the drain was on the side of the oil pan I understand the valve would help to cut down on mess.

With the large pan, I seldom have a drop of oil on the floor when I'm done.
 

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Agree. Nothing to do with OCD.

Fast is good when draining exactly for the reasons Phil G. said.

I use a 5 gallon chlorine bucket. Sits right below the drain plug.

No mess here.
 

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The faster it drains, the more residual is left on the pan wall. Slower drain means more complete drain :eek:

LOL

great video. My 2011 doesn't have that type of pan, though. I have a "cam lock" o-ring. I've heard there was a recall on those pans, and I thought mine had been replaced, but maybe not?

I had the "fumoto" valve on my 7.3

loved it. I may change to this later configuration at next oil change if all I have to do is pull those dozen bolts and reinstall with a rubber seal. The cam lock deal is cool, but I'd prefer the fumoto.

Not interested in pulling the engine like I had to do twice with a rusted-out oil pan on the 7.3
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I use the valves for my cooling system to drain the block but I have never trusted them on oil for all of the reasons above. I have an extra socket for the drain plug sitting off to the side on the tool box and another one for the filter (6.0L) and honestly, climbing under there, catching the oil, disposing of the oil, that's the PITA, IMO, not opening one bolt. I'm still on the original drain plug with maybe once or twice replacing the washer in 10 years... I just don't see that the valve is going to "improve the experience" that much". I don't know about the newer engines but the drain plug on the 6.0L is dead center in the bottom of the pan, they use a very low profile plug from the factory, I think that's for a reason... a protruding valve is just begging to get knocked by debris on the road or off road driving.

This is what improved my world more than anything... especially a few years ago when I was dropping the oil every two weeks while covering a ton of miles for a few months. I let the fuel filters leak into it when changing them as well. I never lose a drain plug into the oil anymore, I almost get no oil on my glove while opening it fast and letting the plug fall onto the screen. And yes, it does fit under my stock height truck on 18's no problem while on the ground.

Redline RE10G 10 Gallon Rolling Oil Drainage Change Waste Pan Tank Steel Drain | eBay

I have a spot out of the way in the garage, I only drain it about every 4 oil changes or so. I set the funnel on the 5gal pail, lift the screen off the pan and bail the oil out with an old plastic juice jug, dump it in the funnel. I have had one of those stupid little round black plastic ones fold in half like a sandwich when I went to move it from the hot oil and being full right to the brim...that was not a good day.. never again.

If your changing you oil twice a year, probably doesn't make sense though.
Yeah, it's just a gadget. The thing I hate the most is emptying the 13 quarts from the drain pan into the oil jugs for recycling. It's always a balancing act pouring the old oil into a funnel while trying not to tip over the jug or overfill it. I'll store up a few milk jugs and just fill those with the hose from the valve. Should be drip free and no messing with the full drain pan. That's a plus.

I read another comment from a guy who cuts off the bottom of a two liter bottle and lifts it almost covering the filter. Then he unscrews the filter with the wrench until it drops into the bottle. Have to say that's clever.

But the thing I like the most is that drain cart you linked above. It's very cool but would be just another thing to store somewhere in the garage.

I'm really thinking the fears of accidental opening are overblown. Maybe if you're in a mud pit with sticks and branches? Maybe. But you can be assured I'll look under the truck a few extra times over the next cycle just to check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The faster it drains, the more residual is left on the pan wall. Slower drain means more complete drain :eek:

LOL

great video. My 2011 doesn't have that type of pan, though. I have a "cam lock" o-ring. I've heard there was a recall on those pans, and I thought mine had been replaced, but maybe not?

I had the "fumoto" valve on my 7.3

loved it. I may change to this later configuration at next oil change if all I have to do is pull those dozen bolts and reinstall with a rubber seal. The cam lock deal is cool, but I'd prefer the fumoto.

Not interested in pulling the engine like I had to do twice with a rusted-out oil pan on the 7.3
I had a 2011 also and thought that yellow poly drain plug was the bomb. Most folks were wigged out by the plastic oil pan so Ford abandoned it. There never was a recall on it.
 

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Given my bad experience with the 7.3 pans ... I think a plastic one would be better anyway ... TIC. :p

I laughed hard, though, when you mentioned the flow rate. The first time I did this, I had no idea. I had the VERY same catch pan you flashed into your video ...

I testify ... what you say is TRUTH! Oil was EVERYWHERE! I now have an old school open top galvanized pan ... 15 quart capacity (which the dealership overfilled last time) Now I'm an RLI oil guy.

oil analysis pending.

Renewable Lubricants | Home

I get the 5w-40 HDMO low ash
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Given my bad experience with the 7.3 pans ... I think a plastic one would be better anyway ... TIC. :p

I laughed hard, though, when you mentioned the flow rate. The first time I did this, I had no idea. I had the VERY same catch pan you flashed into your video ...

I testify ... what you say is TRUTH! Oil was EVERYWHERE! I now have an old school open top galvanized pan ... 15 quart capacity (which the dealership overfilled last time) Now I'm an RLI oil guy.

oil analysis pending.

Renewable Lubricants | Home

I get the 5w-40 HDMO low ash
Dang, that was an Oh Crap moment. But take heart, it's comments like yours that made sure I made that point. I hate even a few drips and can only image about 10 quarts going over the rim. That plastic one that I'm using is a 5 gallon capacity with curved-in top edge so it does nicely.
 

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Oh ... I meant to add ... since having changed my fuel filters this past week ... I noticed you still had the factory filter ... 3rd line on the eng-compartment canister.
 

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I had the EZ valve on my 7.3, and the Fumoto is on the 6.4. The Fumoto came with a clip that locks the handle in place, keeping it from accidentally opening. Yeah, I know that it could still be ripped out. Both valves can be fitted with a 90-degree drain if you don't have much in the way of clearance. Also I put Teflon tape on the threads.

It makes things much easier and cleaner for doing periodic oil samples.

My stock filter setup is gone; mine is now located behind the bumper on the driver side. I punch a hole in the bottom and let it drain (there's a lot of oil in the hoses).
 

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yup...still appears to be a bit of OCD on the valve and fast vs slow drain.....guess a titan fuel tank hanging 6" lower than stock tank is out of the question also...

If there was a problem with these valves, EZ-Drain or Fumoto, the forums would be full of bad comments and how they broke or opened randomly or failed or......

But, you know what? I haven't seen any complaints on any forum I visit about the drain valves failing or being knocked off.
 

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And its much easier to get an oil sample for testing.
 
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