[Sam017.🌲]

This is my first post I need some advice with my 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 first my oil cooler was leaking so I checked my coolant and it had oil in it so I bought a oem reseal kit and new oil t6 15-40 and reused the coolant it had 8k on it so I thought it would be ok if I took the top layer of oil off bad move on my part slapped it together and a week later I checked my coolant and it had oil in it and my oil had a green tint to it when it was on my fingers so I bought a garbage Dorman oil cooler with seals and a new front mount due to pitting new oil and flushed the cooling system numerous time with dishwasher powered soap like diesel tech Ron RIP without the thermostat and gasket I let it idle during flushes due to the fact it would leak with out it after it was almost clear I put the thermostat in with coolant and drove 90 miles and there a little oil in the coolant and the oil has a green tint to it the coolant is golden so I don’t know why the oil is green I’m considering a bad front cover seal or front cover I really need assistance or advice I’m losing sleep worrying about my truck as you can tell by the time this post is posted at I want my truck back in tip top shape again any questions are welcome and if you have had a similar problem please share the cause

 

[Sam017.🌲]

Also I drove it about 10 miles it was up to temp and checked the coolant and no signs of oil

 

[Oneof6]

It can take a lot of cleaning to get the oil out of the cooling system, took me all day and a box of DW powder. Coolant contaminated with oil, dump it, clean,clean, clean with water until the system is clean and soap free, if it doesn't clean up one still has a problem. When clean that's when the new coolant goes in.

It's a good time to do a bad thing, change the hoses, that oil is bad for their material no o e likes a hose burst.

Edit... K, I get it now, you are in parallel getting coolant in your oil. While a front cover cavitation hole behind the water pump impeller is a possibility more likely is a cracked injector cup. Me, that's where I would start. Pull injectors and pressurize the cooling system and if a cup is cracked you will see it seeping. Next time I pull injectors for any reason I am changing cups regardless to stay ahead of the failure curve.
Front cover, pull the water pump and look, I would PT the aluminum in that area regardless of how it looks, a crack can be closed cold. Hsrd to see, and open up hot. PT will pick that up cold.

 

[RT]

The injector cup separates the fuel rail and coolant. For oil to get into the coolant through that path, it would have to overpower fuel pressure and somehow get past the lower oil control o-rings. Since the problem began when he changed the oil cooler o-rings, my money is still on that as the culprit. My old motto. If you do X and Y happens, don't go looking for Z.

 

[Oneof6]

The injector cup separates the fuel rail and coolant. For oil to get into the coolant through that path, it would have to overpower fuel pressure and somehow get past the lower oil control o-rings. Since the problem began when he changed the oil cooler o-rings, my money is still on that as the culprit. My old motto. If you do X and Y happens, don't go looking for Z.

Agree 100%, I did not make the priority chain of progression clear enough, as I wrote but did not emphasize clearly enough, clean,clean,clean the coolant system, including that contaminated original coolant, gotta get the oil out to know if one has an original point cooler leak again. When one makes certain there is no cooler leak, and still gets oil in the coolant THEN start looking in other places like IJ o-rings and front cover. 106

 

[klhansen]

As was said, it take a long time to get oil out of the cooling system. When I had a tranny cooler break, I still got a skim of oil in the degas tank after the dealer said they flushed the cooling system twice. I floated a couple squares of absorbent pad in the degas tank and drove it, which soaked up the oil. It took 2-3 cycles of doing that before it was finally clear of oil.

 

[realdann]

You can gut the spring and stem out of a thermostat. This will allow you to run leak free and drive for a while. A piece of card board slipped in front and covering half radiator will get up to temperature.
There is a cleaner at tractor supply call Big Boss. It's Red in color and has a snorting bull on it. . It's an amazing degreaser cleaner. I use it from kitchen to shop. I searched internet and by it by the gallon. I haven't used it to flush out an engine, but a quart added to the system should do it.