[sdboy]

I have an oil leak I just found. It looks like dirty oil. I do not believe it is trans fluid. It is leaking down from between the engine and transmission as far as I can tell. There is a cover that extends down right in front of the transmission oil pan and I believe behind the transfer case. The oil is coming through what appears to be a hole in this cover(?) and also from its edge. I call it a cover because that is what it looks like. It does not look like it should be sealed. So I think the oil is dripping down and accumulating on top of this cover and then leaking out. My trans fluid appears to be full. I did not check the oil as I just realized it might be engine oil. I was originally thinking transfer case oil which it still could be.

So any ideas what could be leaking in this area? Any idea what it will cost to have it fixed? Would this be covered under the engine warranty? Is there a way to check the level of the transfer case oil?

Thanks so much and sorry for the poor description. I did the best I could.

 

[shytbyrd]

I had the same problem. Take a good look on top of your motor in the valley behind your fuel filter - that is where the I saw oil which then ran down a hole towards the rear and eventually ended up leaking the same way you describe. Turned out to be my HPOP o-rings needed replacing.

 

[ponyboychris]

sdboy,

If you are talking about your '00 truck in your sig, your warranty is long gone (5 yr OR 100,000 miles) unless you bought an ESP. Your leak is either the HPOP o-rings as mentioned before or the turbo pedestal o-rings. Mine's leaking from the turbo and I need to get it in before my warranty runs out. I've read that either leak is not hard to fix. Do a search and happy reading.

 

[glust]

I have an early 99 extended cab 7.3. I had the same porblem but almost all of my oil leaked out rather quickley. Lucky for me the Ford has a low oil switch that shuts down the motor,,,Good thinking,,, or I might have very well burned the sucker up.. Dealership fixed it for $180.00 High pressure Oil pump o ring. They said it is a very common repair.... I am not sure if you can do it on your own or not. Might need on of those SPECIAL FORD TOOL NUMBER things.... Good luck George

 

[sdboy]

Thanks for the replies. I took it to the dealer yesterday and did lot of reading here as well. The dealer said Rear Main Seal is leaking and it is leaking around the oil pan (which is rusty and should be replaced). Total cost: $2138. Ouch!! I know of a pretty good mechanic and I am going to see what he will charge. After hearing that price, I did check the warranty and found about the 5 yr limit. I should have known but I thought it was 100k mile with no time limit. Oh well. I only have 58k miles on this truck.

I am going to look at the things mentioned here and what I was reading just to see what I find.

Thanks again.

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks for the replies. I took it to the dealer yesterday and did lot of reading here as well. The dealer said Rear Main Seal is leaking and it is leaking around the oil pan (which is rusty and should be replaced). Total cost: $2138. Ouch!! I know of a pretty good mechanic and I am going to see what he will charge. After hearing that price, I did check the warranty and found about the 5 yr limit. I should have known but I thought it was 100k mile with no time limit. Oh well. I only have 58k miles on this truck.

I am going to look at the things mentioned here and what I was reading just to see what I find.

Thanks again.

[/ QUOTE ]

It is almost NEVER the rear main seal leaking. Incompetent mechanics think it is, because a leak generated at the turbo pedestal will drain down the back of the bell housing and look like a rear main seal.

Trust me, it has been hashed out a thousand times on here, check your Turbo Pedestal O-Rings, and HPOP O-rings.

If it's the turbo pedestal, I have some good step-by-step instructions for you, PM me w/any questions.

 

[sdboy]

[ QUOTE ]

It is almost NEVER the rear main seal leaking. Incompetent mechanics think it is, because a leak generated at the turbo pedestal will drain down the back of the bell housing and look like a rear main seal.

Trust me, it has been hashed out a thousand times on here, check your Turbo Pedestal O-Rings, and HPOP O-rings.

If it's the turbo pedestal, I have some good step-by-step instructions for you, PM me w/any questions.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks. I have read a lot and I see lots of stuff about o-rings so I know what you are saying. I am not too inclined to fix it myself and I am not going to have the Ford dealer fix it. I'd guess replacing the o-rings is a LOT cheaper then the rear main??

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]


Thanks. I have read a lot and I see lots of stuff about o-rings so I know what you are saying. I am not too inclined to fix it myself and I am not going to have the Ford dealer fix it. I'd guess replacing the o-rings is a LOT cheaper then the rear main??

[/ QUOTE ]

You'd guess right, parts may run you $10, the labor is a bit worse though, have to pull the turbo.

I could probably do the whole job in less than 4 hrs now that I've done it a few times though.

 

[kevinlorenz444]

Mine is leaking too. Every time I look under the truck it is worse. I looked today and the side of the oil pan was covered and also the top of the transmission and it runs down onto the trans pan.

 

[stackedpsd99]

HPOP O-RING PROBLEM/SOLUTION -- FIX TOOK 1.5 HOURS, and $2x.xx

Here is a picture of where my HPOP O rings were leaking. They are located on top, next to the fuel filter. Get up on top of your truck, with a flashlight and if the truck is running it will be a gusher, if it is not, it will be hard to spot.

JUST A FYI, I needed 2 gallons of oil, I think a 5/8 wrench, a #47 torx at a 90 degree angle (or a straight one with a wrench to twist it b/c it becomes oily and slippery) some paper (makeshift funnel to fill HPOP res), strong battery charger, allen wrench(s), a good memory lol since you have to take apart some fuel lines so that you can crank on the Hpop fitting (lots of little springs and plastic pieces, ALOT of papertowels, and small container to pour the oil into the HPOP. Total install was like 1.5 hours but after reviewing the info, I didn't replace ONE of the O rings, but it wasn't leaking so like JimTJr said, if it ain't broke don't fix it. After you do this install, letting the fuel pump run its course (to fill the fuel filter since you d/c it and drained it) and crankin' it a few times it started!

lol it feels good to do it. ALSO FYI, there will be oil/diesel in the valley since you had the lines off... spray degreaser and blow out with water, it will ''leak'' oil for a little while, but in reality its just the excess running out of the valley down the back of the engine block and tansmission. You can tell that its just water if you get up under it though.

also a 12"+ needlenose does wonders precisely picking up small springs (inside all fittings) and the HPOP cap from the valley of the motor. They are so small, slippery, in tight, and of course 'springy' so you're likely to lose them if your not very careful.

The O-rings on the HPOP fittings are actually #6 O-ring boss. The ports in the head are #5. You can get them at any hydraulic shop for pennies.

FORD #'s -->
KIT SE PMP HYD (HPOP O-rings fitting repair kit w/sealant) Includes Loctite 680
2C3Z-9G804-AB $16.79 (fordparts.com price)
International 1843716C92


TOO BAD YOU LIVE SOO FAR AWAY, OTHERWISE I'D BE GLAD TO HELP!!!

Click: Thread when my truck sprung a leak

 

[DWNRIGR]

It very well may be the rear main seal. I just has a new 7.3 short block with a new oil pan installed at the dealer, and within 2 weeks, I could see oil dripping down towards the rear of the pan, by the "cover" area SDBOY is refering too. Took it back. Turns out it was the rear main seal, and crankshaft sleave. They had to drop the tranny to fix it. Fortunatly it was covered.

 

[Beast]

I have also had this exact location with the oil leak. I believe the dealer fixed the HPOP seals. Stopped now showing up again very slightly. But, you is very hard to see where the oil is coming from. You may want to look up along the passenger side of the engine block for some extremely small evidence of an oil trail. It might actually look dry but could be it.

The cover you are talking about is the torque converter cover. It is very easy to take off. You can then look up in there and see if you seen the oil leak. By all means at least do this much before taking it anywhere. If it is your rear main seal there should definetly be oil there.

I wouldn't think you would need to pull the engine to replace the rear main seal. If your oil pan is rusty and leaking then you are suppose to pull the engine and therefore expensive. But if your oil pan is not leaking then just paint the rusted areas with POR-15. Don't waste your money pulling the more for a rusted oil pan. Just paint it.

As others have said I would definetly question the diagnosis.